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F.a.q.

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Materials Guide

Everything about 3D printing WASP materials

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TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE

TELEPHONE SUPPORT

The Support Form at the bottom of the page has to be completed before contacting the telephone assistance number.
In this way our technicians will already have the necessary information for optimal support.

SUPPORT FORM

IN CASE OF RETURN OF DAMAGED MACHINE OR PART

Download the technical assistance module, compile and place inside the original packaging  in case you send material to Wasp, or in case of shipment of the printer or damaged part.

MODULE

WARRANTY AND ASSISTANCE POLICY

Check the page dedicated to Warranty and Assistance Policy – WASP.

Have you already visited the F.A.Q. section of our page?

Check here the section of the page dedicated to frequently asked questions about our printers, extruders and accessories. Check it now and for any other questions, please complete the support form at the bottom fo the page

FILL THE SUPPORT FORM

F.A.Q.

Do you need to prepare the pellets before putting them in the tank?

In 3D printing, polymer materials are widely used to create three-dimensional objects. However, some of these polymers are hygroscopic, which means they absorb moisture from their surroundings. This ability to absorb water can have a significant impact on the printing process and the performance of the material itself.

EFFECTS OF MOISTURE IN POLYMERS

The moisture absorbed by polymers can have a significant impact on their behavior during the 3D printing process. Here are some of the negative effects that humidity can cause:

  • RELEASE OF WATER VAPOR, FUMES, AND SOUNDS (WITH VISIBLE SMOKE): When moisture-containing polymer material is extruded at elevated temperatures, water trapped in the material granules can vaporize rapidly, causing water vapor, fumes, and sounds to be released. In some cases, smoke may also be visible, which can affect the quality of the print.
  • MICRO-BUBBLES OR IMPERFECTIONS IN THE PRINT: Trapped moisture can lead to the formation of micro-bubbles in the molten material during extrusion. These microbubbles can cause imperfections in the print, making the surface of the final object less smooth and uniform.
  • INCREASED BURRS IN DISPLACEMENT (STRINGING): Moisture can affect the viscosity of the melt, causing strings of material between different parts of the printed object. This phenomenon is known as “stringing” and is undesirable in 3D printing, as it can require additional post-printing to remove excess strings.
  • EXPANSION OF THE OUTPUT MATERIAL: Trapped moisture can lead to an expansion of the material as it exits the extrusion nozzle. This effect can result in a heavier than expected flow of material, negatively affecting the accuracy of the print.

These issues make the printing process unreliable and result in an uneven surface of the final object.

To determine if the material you are using is sensitive to moisture and how to treat it properly, it is always advisable to contact the manufacturer of the material. This way, you’ll be able to adopt the appropriate drying and storage procedures to ensure a high-quality print with your polymer material.

REDUCTION OF MECHANICAL PERFORMANCE

Moisture can also impair the mechanical performance of the polymer material. It can make the material more brittle or less strong, negatively affecting the durability and sturdiness of the printed object. This is especially important if you’re printing parts that require some mechanical strength.

HIGH TEMPERATURES

A common problem is the explosion of trapped water. This occurs when the material is brought to high temperatures, often above 200°C.  Water previously absorbed by the polymer can vaporize rapidly, causing warping and imperfections in the print.

DRYING OF POLYMERIC MATERIALS

To mitigate these issues, it is essential to dry hygroscopic polymer materials before printing. This process removes moisture trapped in the material granules, ensuring that the polymer is in optimal condition for printing. It may be necessary to use a vacuum dryer or oven to reach specific temperatures and remove excess moisture.

CHOICE OF MATERIALS

Finally, it’s important to note that some polymer materials, such as polypropylene (PP), are non-hygroscopic and do not require drying before printing. In contrast, materials such as PLA and PET-G are notoriously hygroscopic and require special care to ensure high-quality print results.

In summary, moisture is a significant challenge when it comes to 3D printing with hygroscopic polymer materials. Thorough drying of materials is crucial to ensure a reliable printing process and achieve high-quality three-dimensional objects.

However, it is possible to develop processes without dehumidification of the polymer if the part does not require 100% print quality.

Preparing the filament for 3d printing

In the context of 3D printing using filament materials, it is essential to consider the sensitivity of the polymer material to moisture. Some filaments can be hygroscopic, absorbing moisture from the environment, and this can greatly affect the printing process and the characteristics of the material itself. Here are some important things to consider:

EFFECTS OF MOISTURE ON FILAMENTS:

  • RELEASE OF WATER VAPOR, FUMES, AND SOUNDS: During extrusion at elevated temperatures, water trapped in the material’s granules can vaporize rapidly, resulting in the release of water vapor, fumes, and sounds. In some cases, smoke may be visible, affecting the quality of the print.
  • MICROBUBBLES OR IMPERFECTIONS IN THE PRINT: Trapped moisture can cause microbubbles to form in the molten material during extrusion, resulting in imperfections on the surface of the printed object.
  • EXCESS FILAMENT BETWEEN PARTS (STRINGING): Moisture can affect the viscosity of the molten material, causing filaments to form between different parts of the printed object. This phenomenon, known as “stringing,” may require post-press finishing operations.

FILAMENT DRYING: To address these issues, it is crucial to dry hygroscopic filaments thoroughly before printing. This process removes moisture trapped in the material’s granules, ensuring that the filament is optimal for the printing process. Using vacuum dryers or ovens at specific temperatures may be necessary to get rid of excess moisture.

MATERIAL SELECTION: It is important to note that some filaments, such as PVA and PET-G, are known to be hygroscopic and require special precautions during use. Conversely, materials such as polypropylene (PP) may not require prior drying.

In summary, managing moisture is crucial when using filaments for 3D printing, and drying the material thoroughly will help ensure quality prints.

Installation and first print Delta WASP 4070 INDUSTRIAL X

Hot chamber

The hot chamber is a system integrated into the printer that allows the temperature inside the build volume to be increased by a flow of heated air. This temperature control system is analogous to those used to regulate the temperature of the nozzle or print bed.

The use of the hot chamber is mainly intended for printing large objects or with materials that tend to delaminate and shrink during the printing process. We recommend the use of the hot chamber for the following materials:

  • ABS:  Recommended hot chamber temperature: 50-60°C.
  • PA + CARBON FIBER:  Recommended hot chamber temperature: 50-60°C.
  • PMMA:  Recommended hot chamber temperature: 60°C.

In general, using the hot chamber makes sense for materials with an extrusion temperature above 250°C and that are prone to delamination.

IMPORTANT: Using the hot chamber in unsuitable situations, such as with materials such as PLA, can cause problems rather than solve them. Therefore, it is crucial to select the use of hot chamber only when it is appropriate for the material and object you are printing.

You can set the target temperature value of the hot chamber in several ways:

  • MANUALLY: You can adjust the temperature from the printer’s monitoring screen via the user interface.
  • SLICING SOFTWARE: Some slicing software allows you to set the temperature of the hot runner using a specific temperature identifier, such as T5.

IMPORTANT: You must avoid activating the “wait for the temperature to stabilize before starting” option for the hot chamber control.

In addition, it should be considered that in any closed printer with a heated print bed, the build volume can reach significantly higher temperatures than in the external environment. Therefore, it is necessary to take this aspect into account when using the hot chamber to avoid problems related to excessive temperatures.

G.code analysis

Scanning the .gcode file is a feature built into the printer that allows you to check the print file before the print job starts. This analysis is used to identify potential problems or errors in the gcode file in advance, which could cause difficulties when printing.

The outcome of the .gcode analysis can be of two types:

  • SUCCESS: This means that no writing errors or problems were detected in the gcode file, and printing can start automatically without further hindrance.
  • FAILURE: If it fails, the printer detects errors in the gcode file and communicates it. In this situation, the printer will not start printing until the problem is resolved.

If this is not the case, there are several checks and actions to take:

SAVE THE GCODE AGAIN: First of all, try saving the gcode file to your computer’s memory again. After that, copy it to the external disk or to the printer’s memory (if possible the connection remotely via Octoprint).

SAFE DISK REMOVAL: Be sure to perform a “safe disk removal” before disconnecting the SD card or USB stick from your PC. This prevents damage to your data and storage device.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE EXTERNAL DISK: Make sure that the SD card or USB stick is functional. Check that there are no hardware issues that could affect the reading of the gcode file.

EXTERNAL DRIVE FORMATTING: Check that your SD card or USB stick is formatted as FAT-32 or ExFAT, as these formats are commonly supported by most 3D printers. Make sure you don’t use non-standard formatting or NTFS.

VERIFYING GCODE START AND END SCRIPTS: Take a look at the “start gcode” and “end script” scripts in your configuration file. There may be issues or errors within these scripts that affect the parsing of the gcode file.

How to name the .gcode

Naming your .gcode files and other working files correctly is an important aspect of avoiding any potential inconveniences during the 3D printing process. Here are some important rules to follow in order to name files correctly:

  • AVOID SPECIAL CHARACTERS: Avoid using special characters such as commas, semicolons, colons, exclamation marks, quotation marks, euros, dollars, percentages, and other special symbols. Use only standard alphanumeric characters.
  • AVOID GAPS AND INDENTATIONS: Avoid using spaces (space bar) or indentations (tab key) in file names. Instead, use the underscore (_) or an underscore to separate words if necessary.
  • SHORT NAMES: Preferably, use short names, ideally under 13 characters. Reduce the length of the name by encoding only the essential information.

An example of a file name created by following these rules might be:

“prt1A_ZENX_04_PLA.gcode”

This name reads as “1A (prt1A) printing part printed with Zen X extruder (ZENX) with 0.4mm nozzle (04) using PLA (PLA) material”. This name contains all the necessary information without using special characters or spaces that could cause problems when printing.

Some examples of filenames that do NOT follow these rules are:

  • “lidPLA150%” (contains a special character “%”).
  • “prova_ugello0.4_layer0.15mm” (contains dots, which should be avoided).
  • “part above PLA lid – x fair” (it is too long and contains a lot of spaces).

What values can be changed during printing

During the printing process, you can make some changes to certain parameters. However, it is important to note that these changes will not be saved in the original .gcode file and will be temporary. In addition, making changes during printing is considered an experimental practice and is not recommended to ensure repeatability of the printing process.

The following are the parameters that you can change during printing:

FEEDRATE: You can adjust the print speed during the printing process. This parameter affects the speed at which the extruder moves along the X, Y, and Z axes.

FLOW: Flow refers to the amount of plastic material extruded during printing. You can adjust the flow during printing to increase or decrease the amount of material deposited.

FAN: You can adjust the speed of the cooling fans during printing. This can be useful for controlling the cooling of the printed material.

TEMPERATURE: You can change the nozzle, build bed, and hot chamber temperatures during printing.

TO CHANGE THE TEMPERATURE PARAMETERS (NOZZLES, BED, HOT CHAMBER):

  • Click the corresponding tile on the monitoring screen.
  • Type the new target value on your keyboard.
  • Confirm the change.
  • Check that the target temperature updates (this may take a few seconds).

TO CHANGE THE SPEED, FLOW, AND FAN PARAMETERS (USING THE TUNE MENU):

  • During printing, click the TUNE button.
  • Choose the parameter you want to change and select it. The selected parameter will be highlighted.
  • Once highlighted, turn the knob located on the side of the screen to adjust the value.
  • Click on the knob to confirm the change.

What is the knob for?

The machines of the Industrial series are equipped with a TFT touch screen for the interface and control of the machine. They also feature a knob as an additional control and navigation tool to simplify interaction with the printer interface, allowing users to adjust values and quickly exit menus or messages without having to touch the touch screen.

  • ADJUSTMENT: The knob wheel can be used to adjust the values shown on the TFT touch screen. By turning the knob clockwise or counterclockwise, you can increase or decrease the values displayed in various commands or settings. This feature is useful for making precise changes to printer parameters or other settings.
  • ESC (Exit): While navigating the printer interface or when overlay messages appear, you can press the knob to exit sub-menus or close messages. This works similarly to a computer’s “ESC” key and allows you to return to the main menu or undo actions in progress without interrupting operations such as printing or calibrating the printer.

How to print supports with the right extruder

Dual extruder printing is an advanced solution that allows you to achieve diverse and complex results in a single print session. To ensure that this process is carried out correctly, it is crucial to follow a series of precise steps.

Below, we provide a general guide for using the dual extruder for media creation:

PROFILE IMPORT:

  • Import the double extruder profile corresponding to your needs from our download page.

MEDIA CONFIGURATION:

  • In the “EDIT PROCESS” section, select “MEDIA”.
    • enable supports and select “RIGHT EXTRUDER” as the extruder for the supports.

PARAMETER SETTINGS:

  • Configure all the necessary parameters according to your specifications.
    • Pay special attention to print temperatures that match those of the material to be used

CHECKING THE ACTIVE EXTRUDER:

  • To monitor which extruder is taking care of a specific part of the print, go to the “PREPARE TO PRINT” screen.
    • Find the drop-down menu on the left labeled “ACTIVE TOOLHEAD.”
    • As highlighted in the image below, this menu indicates which of the two extruders is currently active for the desired print zone.

Switching cores – Delta WASP 2040 INDUSTRIAL X

Switching cores – Delta WASP 4070 INDUSTRIAL X

WASP ZEN X Extruder – extruder looks crooked/one of the nozzles is covered

The fact that the extruder looks crooked or that one of the two nozzles is covered by a silicone part is a normal feature of your Zen X extruder, which is fitted as standard in the Delta WASP Industrial X series. This extruder is a double extruder with a tilting system, which means it can take two different positions:

POSITION 1: In this position, the extruder is tilted to the left, and the left nozzle is uncovered. This is called a left extruder or primary extruder.

POSITION 2: In this position, the extruder is tilted to the right, and the right nozzle is uncovered. This is called a right extruder or secondary extruder.

Manually forcing the extruder into positions other than these two can impair its proper functioning, so it’s important to avoid doing so.

The white silicone part under the extruder, called “anti ooze shield protection”, is used to physically cover the nozzle that is not in use during printing. This helps prevent plastic material from leaking out of the unused nozzle and soiling the model or printer.

Make sure this protector is properly attached to the extruder, and if it wears out over time, replace it with a replacement to ensure a clean, trouble-free print.

WASP ZEN X Extruder – nozzle cleaning

Nozzle change is only recommended in the following cases:

  • The print appears inconsistent due to a clog.
  • It is necessary to change the diameter of the nozzle.

PREPARING FOR REPLACEMENT:

  • Turn on the printer.

REMOVING THE EXISTING NOZZLE:

  • Bring the extruder to the previously used temperature and wait a few seconds.
  • Perform Filament Removal
  • Remove the Ooze shield protector
  • Using the wrench provided, unscrew and remove the nozzle carefully, being careful of hot surfaces.

NOZZLE REPLACEMENT:

  • Screw the new nozzle into its position.
  • Reposition the Ooze shield protector

FILAMENT LOADING:

  • Perform Filament Loading

POST-REPLACEMENT:

  • After replacing the nozzle, you need to perform Self-Calibration

WASP ZEN X Extruder – ZEN X Block replacement

PREPARING FOR REMOVAL:

  • Make sure the machine is turned on.
  • Use the “Autohome” command from the PRINT > AUTOHOME menu.
  • Perform Filament Removal
  • Turn off the machine.

REMOVING THE ZEN X BLOCK:

  • Remove the Velcro tape.
  • Remove the PTFE tubing by pushing down on the crowns and pulling up on the tubing.
  • Unplug the connector
  • Remove the OOZE SHIELD
  • Unscrew and remove the two central-external fixing screws, keeping the extruder lock firmly locked.
  • Remove the extruder block from the extruder casing.

CAUTION: The ZEN X Block must be replaced from under the extruder and may be hot. Therefore, caution is advised.

REPLACING THE ZEN X BLOCK:

  • Insert the new ZEN X BLOCK from under the extruder
  • Tighten the two central-external fixing screws while keeping the extruder lock firmly locked.
  • Put the OOZE SHIELD back on
  • Plug in the connector, making sure it’s properly inserted
  • Insert the two PTFE tubes
  • Put the Velcro tape back in the correct starting position and put the plastic ties back in place properly

NOTE: Self-calibration must be performed before launching a new print

The double-pull thread puller jerks or does not turn

If your 3D printer’s thread puller jerks or doesn’t spin properly, follow these steps to fix the problem:

STEP 1: CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED

  • If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the molten filament may have difficulty flowing properly, causing a blockage in the thread puller’s feeding system. Perform a manual leveling of the print bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust residue that may hinder proper operation.

STEP 2: CHECK THE PRINT SETTINGS

  • LAYER HEIGHT: Make sure the layer height is set correctly. If it is too high, the material may have difficulty being extruded. The maximum allowable height is half the diameter of the nozzle used for printing.
  • TEMPERATURE: Check that the temperature is set correctly for the material you are printing. If it is too low, the filament may have difficulty being extruded.
  • PRINT SPEED: Check the print speed and make sure it is within the recommended parameters. If the print is too fast, it may cause problems for the thread puller to extrude the material properly.

NOTE: It is advisable to always start with the basic print profiles available in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website, as these profiles are optimized for the specific material and printer.

STEP 3: CHECK EXTRUDER CLEANLINESS

  • Make sure that the nozzle is well cleaned and that the material is extruded evenly. If necessary, clean the extruder (see chapter “Extruder cleaning”)

The extruder goes down at the end of the print

The situation where the extruder goes down at the end of the print can be problematic and cause damage to the printed part. Here’s how to deal with this situation:

STEP 1: DISABLE THE “M84” COMMAND

  • Log in to your slicing software (e.g., Cura, PrusaSlicer, Simplify3D) and open the print profile you are using.
  • Look for the “ending scripts” section within the print profile settings. This section contains the commands that are automatically executed at the end of each print.
  • Find the “M84” command within the “ending scripts” section and disable it by adding a semicolon (;) before the command, as shown in the example: “; M84″.
  • Saves changes to the print profile.

Please note: After about 10 minutes, even if the “M84” command has been disabled, the motors will still deactivate automatically.

The surface of the workpiece is spongy

A spongy print surface can be the result of several problems in your 3D printer or printing process. Here are a number of things you can do to resolve this issue:

VERIFY THE G.CODE FILE:

  • Make sure that the Gcode file you generated by the slicing software is correct and error-free. Check that there are no modeling defects in the STL file, such as open edges or non-manifold surfaces, that could cause problems when printing.

VERIFY THE SLICING PARAMETERS:

  • Check that the parameters in the slicing software are correct. Make sure the nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-step per mm are set correctly according to the specifications of your printer and the material used.

CHECK THE EXTRUDER:

  • Check that the extruder’s power RJ45 connector is properly connected to the extruder.
  • Check that the hoses connecting the thread puller and extruder are well connected and have no clogging or dirt inside them.
  • Make sure the filament has been loaded correctly and has made it all the way to the melting zone inside the nozzle.
  • Check that the extruder’s cooling fan is working properly.

CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED:

  • If the nozzle is too close to the print bed, the molten filament may have difficulty coming out, causing a blockage in the thread puller and motor gear. Perform a manual leveling of the build bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust or debris that may be causing tension during printing.

CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER:

  • Make sure the wire puller’s power cord is securely connected to the printer’s motherboard. If necessary, connect the cable while the printer is turned off.
  • Check that the thread taker control is active in the printer menu: Menu > Prepare > Movement > 1mm > Extruder.
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller is well connected to the motor shaft and that it is not idling. You can do this by pressing and holding the thread puller pliers, leaving the system unlocked, and turning the black knob. Then screw the M3 grub screw onto the flat surface of the motor shaft, making sure the toothed part is aligned with the filament passage.
  • Check that the thread puller motor fan is running. If that doesn’t work, it’s a good idea to contact technical support.

Printing is staggered

If your print is offset, it may be due to lost footsteps in motion or other problems in the printing process. Here’s how you can fix this:

CHECK THE SPEED AND ACCELERATION IN THE GCODE:

  • Check the print speed in the Gcode file. Speeds that are too high can cause the belts to slip around the pulleys and lose steps. Make sure the print speed is set appropriately for your printer and the material used.
  • It also verifies the accelerations in the movements. Accelerations of more than 6000 mm/s² may cause belt slippage. Check that the acceleration settings are appropriate for your printer. Keep in mind that these figures may vary depending on the model of your printer.

CHECK THE EXTRUSION FLOW:

  • Controls the percentage of material flow set in the slicing software. A flow rate greater than 100% can cause excessive material build-up during printing, causing collisions between layers. Make sure the flow percentage is set correctly for the material you are using.

CHECK THE EXTRUDER NOZZLE:

  • Check that the extruder nozzle is properly attached. If the nozzle is unscrewed, it may cause bumps during printing. Make sure it is tightly screwed in and in the correct position.

The printer makes noise

The 3D printer can make noises during printing, and these noises can have several causes. Here are some things you need to do to identify and fix your noise problem:

COOLING FAN:

  • Check the cooling fan on the extruder. If it is set to maximum speed, it may be noisy. From the slicing software, adjust the fan speed according to your needs. A slower speed may reduce noise without compromising print quality.
  • Make sure the fan propellers are intact and that they are not dirty or clogged with print residue or dust. If this is the case, turn off the printer and very carefully clean any debris or dust from the propellers or fan body.

NOISE LEVEL OF THE HANDLING AXES:

  • Make sure that the noise is not coming from the cooling fan on the extruder. If so, follow the directions above.
  • Check the smoothness of the pads on the moving axes by sliding them slowly with constant movements from top to bottom and vice versa. If there is friction and abnormal noise, you may need to contact technical support for maintenance.
  • Check the correct smoothness of the belt return bearings, which are located at the bottom of the slide rails. If the bearings are worn or damaged, they may be the cause of the noise.
  • Check the teeth of the belts. If you notice any expansion between the teeth of the belt or pinching, it may cause noise during printing. If so, you should replace the belt.

LOSS OF MOTOR STEPS:

  • Check to see if the printer’s motors are overheating during printing. Excessive overheating can cause loss of steps. Make sure the motors are properly cooled and are not clogged with dust or debris.
  • Check that the pulleys are firmly fixed on the motor shafts. Pulleys slipping on the shaft can cause lost steps.
  • Make sure the motor mount is stable and doesn’t move during printing.

EXTRUDER SHOCKS:

  • Check the leveling of the print bed. Keep a distance of about 0.1 mm between the nozzle and the print bed (thickness of an 80g A4 sheet).
  • Check the size of the print file. If the file exceeds the maximum print volume size, it may hit the walls of the printer. Set the correct parameters in the slicing software. (Starting with F20_rev6, F21_rev3, and F30_rev4 firmware, there is a software limitation.)
  • Check to see if any move plug-ins are installed when printing. Sometimes, these plug-ins can cause shocks. Make sure that the sum of the part width and the value of the plug-in does not exceed the maximum printable diameter. (Starting with F20_rev6, F21_rev3, and F30_rev4 firmware, there is a software limitation.)
  • Check that the extruder nozzle is securely fastened and is not unscrewed.

Non-extrusion of the granule

Not extrusion of the granule during 3D printing can be a frustrating problem, but there are steps to fix it. Here are some actions to take:

GCODE VERIFICATION: Make sure that the STL file used to generate the Gcode does not have any modeling defects, such as non-solid surfaces or geometry issues. Use 3D modeling software such as Blender or MeshLab to correct any defects in the model.

VERIFICATION OF SLICING PARAMETERS: Check parameters in the slicing software, such as nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-steps per millimeter. Make sure they are configured correctly for your extruder and the type of granule you are using.

ANALYZE PRINT MATERIAL: Analyze the  print material to understand the cause of the problem. If you are using fibrous or composite materials, a cap may occur in the extruder nozzle. It ALSO controls the moisture of the print granules, particularly if they are moisture-sensitive materials. Absorbed moisture can adversely affect print quality, causing problems such as burrs, blemishes, and changes in material properties.

NOZZLE CLEANING: If you suspect a clog in the nozzle, perform a nozzle cleaning procedure. This will help remove any obstructions.

TEMPERATURES TOO LOW: If the extruder temperatures are too low, the material may not flow properly. Check that the extruder temperature is set properly for the material you are using.

TEMPERATURES TOO HIGH: If the extruder temperatures were too high during the preheating process, the material may have hardened inside the extruder. In this case, follow these steps:

  • Remove the material in the extruder.
  • Take the air pressure out of the system.
  • Remove the material tube from the extruder.
  • It sucks up all the residual material located under the pellet sensor.
  • Load virgin material such as PLA or PP directly into the extruder.
  • Heat both the extruder and barrel to a high temperature (e.g., 250°C) to dissolve any residue within the system.
  • Perform an extruder cleaning procedure to ensure that the extruder is completely free of debris or residual material.

These steps should help you resolve the issue and resume printing effectively. It is important to pay attention to regular cleaning and maintenance of the extruder to avoid future blockages or obstructions during printing.

Failure to extrude filament

Not extrusion of filament in a 3D printer can be caused by several issues. Here are some checks and solutions to address this issue:

GCODE VERIFICATION:

  • Make sure that the STL file used to generate the Gcode has no modeling defects, such as non-solid surfaces or geometry issues. Use 3D modeling software such as Blender or MeshLab to correct any defects in the model.

VERIFICATION OF SLICING PARAMETERS:

  • Control parameters in the slicing software, such as nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-steps per millimeter. Make sure they are configured correctly for your extruder and the type of filament you are using.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE EXTRUDER:

  • Make sure the extruder power cord is securely connected to the extruder. If it is not properly connected, do so with the printer turned off.
  • Check that the hoses connecting the thread puller to the extruder are well connected and free of clogging or dirt. You can remove the hose and inspect it for any blockages or obstructions.
  • Make sure the filament is properly fed into the melting zone inside the nozzle. Check to see if the filament is stuck or caught inside the extruder.

CHECKING THE LEVELING OF THE BUILD BED:

  • Controls the leveling of the print bed. If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the filament may have difficulty coming out, causing the thread puller’s gear and motor to become blocked. Manually level the build bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust or debris.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER:

  • Make sure the power cord of the thread puller is securely connected. If it isn’t, connect the cable with the printer turned off.
  • Make sure the thread taker control is active in the printer’s menu (menu/prepare/movement/1mm/extruder).
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller is securely connected to the motor shaft. You can do this by pressing and holding the thread puller pliers and turning the knob. Make sure that the M3 grub screw is screwed onto the flat surface of the motor shaft, keeping the toothed part centered with the filament passage.
  • Check that the thread puller motor fan is working properly. If the fan is not running, you may need to contact technical support for repair or replacement of the motor.

FILAMENT CONTROL:

  • Make sure the filament is of good quality and has no knots or imperfections.
  • Check that the filament has not expired, as the old filament may be more susceptible to clogging.
  • Check the humidity of the print material, particularly if it is moisture-sensitive filaments. Absorbed moisture can adversely affect print quality, causing problems such as burrs, blemishes, and changes in material properties.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL:

  • Check that the nozzle temperature is set correctly for the type of filament you are using. Too low a temperature can cause blockages.

What should i do if the material tends to wrinkle in the sharp parts?

Material wrinkling on sharp parts during 3D printing is a common problem caused by material shrinkage and built-up stresses.


FACTORS INFLUENCING MATERIAL SHRINKAGE:

  • CHOOSING THE RIGHT MATERIAL: Consider whether it is essential to use the current material for your print. Sometimes, there are versions of materials with less shrinkage. Choosing a material with different characteristics might solve the problem of ripple.
  • SHRINKAGE MANAGEMENT: Ripple is directly related to shrinkage that occurs during material cooling. You can consider using materials with a low shrinkage rate or adjust your print settings to minimize this effect.
  • MODEL ORIENTATION: Changes the orientation of the model in the printout. Examining the arrangement of objects in the print can help reduce wrinkling. Experiment with different angles and orientations to find the best solution.

To address this issue, you can take several steps depending on the goals of your print:

IF YOU ARE PRINTING A PART WITH MECHANICAL PRECISION:

  • LOWER THE LAYER HEIGHT: Reduce the layer height when printing. This can improve accuracy and reduce the rippled effect on sharp parts.
  • INCREASE COOLING FANS: Increase the speed or intensity of the cooling fans on your 3D printer. This helps to cool the material more quickly and reduce tensions.
  • REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY: Reduce the temperature of the extruder slightly. This can help reduce material shrinkage.
  • REDUCE SPEED: Decrease the print speed. Printing more slowly can allow the material to settle more evenly and reduce tensions.

IF YOU ARE PRINTING FOR AESTHETIC APPEARANCE:

  • INCREASE FLOW: Increases the flow of material during printing. This can help to better fill in the sharp parts and reduce the frizzy effect.

IF THE PROBLEM PERSISTS:

  • LOWER THE LAYER HEIGHT: If the problem continues, further consider lowering the layer height to achieve greater accuracy.
  • INCREASE IN COOLING FANS: Keep experimenting with cooling fans. Increased cooling can often improve the aesthetic appeal of printed parts.
  • REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY: If material shrinkage is still an issue, you can further reduce the temperature of the extruder.
  • REDUCE SPEED: Reduce the print speed to allow for greater accuracy in sharp parts.

By experimenting with these settings and taking appropriate measures, you can improve the quality of your printed parts and reduce wrinkling on sharp parts. The best solution will depend on your specific printing needs and the material used.

The workpiece does not stick to the print bed

If the printed part does not adhere properly to the print bed, there are several measures you can take to improve adhesion:

LEVELING THE BUILD BED: Make sure the build bed is properly leveled. Follow the recommended leveling procedure for your 3D printer to ensure that the first layer is even and well-fitting to the bed.

PREPARING THE PRINT SURFACE: You can apply a layer of spray glue or stick glue to create an adhesive surface on the print bed. Be sure to apply a thin, even layer. This can help improve the adhesion of the first layer of your model.

TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT: Check that the temperature of the nozzle and heatbed is set correctly according to the material you are using. Consult the filament manufacturer’s technical specifications for recommended temperatures. Often, slightly increasing the temperature of the build bed can improve adhesion.

USING ADHESIVE SUBSTRATES: Some people prefer to use adhesive substrates such as Kapton tape, blue painter’s tape, or BuildTak surfaces. These substrates can greatly improve the adhesion of the material to the build bed.

USING A RAFT OR BRIM: If the problem persists, you can consider using a “raft” or “brim.” These are additional structures that are printed underneath your model and provide a larger surface area for adhesion to the build bed.

CLEANING THE PRINT BED: Make sure the build bed is clean and free of any previous filament residue or other impurities. You can clean the build bed with isopropyl alcohol or soap and water.

EXPERIMENT WITH SLICING SETTINGS: You can also experiment with your software’s slicing settings. For example, you can increase the “first layer extrusion width” or adjust the height of the first layer to improve adhesion.

Try these solutions one at a time until you can achieve the desired adhesion for your molded parts. Sometimes, a bit of experimentation is needed to find the ideal settings for your environment and print material.

The machine doesn’t print my part well

3D printing can be a complex process, and achieving perfect results requires attention to various details. Here are some steps you can follow to deal with this situation:

CHECK YOUR SLICER SETTINGS: Make sure you are using the slicer settings that are in accordance with your machine. You can find our official press profiles on our website. These profiles have been optimized to work best with our printers.

CHECK MODEL GEOMETRY: Check that your 3D  model has geometry that is suitable for 3D printing. It is important that the model is well-designed, with no gaps, holes in the surface of the model, or geometric errors that could cause problems when printing.

Please note that WASP cannot guarantee positive results for projects that are not compatible with printing technology.

CLEANING THE EXTRUDER: A clean extruder is essential for proper printing. Check that the extruder is free of debris or jammed filaments. Periodic cleaning of the extruder can help avoid extrusion problems.

USE THE PROPER PRINTING MATERIAL: Make sure you are using the right printing material for your needs. Each material has its own specific characteristics and requirements, so choose the material that best suits your project and the printer you use.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

The machine does not print well a material that is not supported by WASP

We understand the challenges that can arise during 3D printing, especially when using complex materials or geometries. However, it is important to note that Delta WASP printers have been designed and tested to work with materials that we certify. This choice was made to ensure the quality and reliability of our products.

In view of this, we cannot provide specific print profiles or detailed assistance for the use of materials that are not certified by WASP. In addition, we do not take responsibility for non-conforming results on finished parts or for the behavior of printers with such materials.

However, that doesn’t mean we’re disinterested in your results. To help you get the most out of your printer and the material you’re using, here are some steps you can follow:

USE BASIC PROFILES: Start with the basic print profiles we provide. These can be easily found in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website. You can select the extruder or printer model you have and make adjustments to suit your specific needs.

PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Some advanced materials require some printing experience, especially when it comes to complex geometries. Experiments and practice can help you better understand how to achieve optimal results.

MATERIAL GUIDES: Check out our material guides, if available. These guides contain useful information on how to deal with specific materials and solve common problems.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

We are here to support you in your 3D printing experience and to answer your questions. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support team.

The machine does not print this part well with this material

If you’re having trouble printing a part with a certain material, it’s important to perform a series of checks and considerations to achieve better printing results. Here are some steps to follow:

SUITABLE MATERIAL: Check that the material you are using is suitable for your application. Different materials have different properties, such as printing temperature, strength, and flexibility. Make sure you’re using a material that’s compatible with your project.

Some materials can absorb moisture or deteriorate over time, which can affect print quality. Check that the material is not degraded.

CHECK MODEL GEOMETRY: Check that your 3D  model has geometry that is suitable for 3D printing. It is important that the model is well-designed, with no gaps, holes in the surface of the model, or geometric errors that could cause problems when printing.

Please note that WASP cannot guarantee positive results for projects that are not compatible with printing technology.

CHECK YOUR SLICER SETTINGS: Make sure you are using the slicer settings that are in accordance with your machine. You can find our official press profiles on our website. These profiles have been optimized to work best with our printers.

CLEAN EXTRUDER: Check that the printer extruder is clean and free of material residue or obstructions. Clean the nozzle if necessary and make sure the filament flows freely.

PROPER MECHANICAL OPERATION: Check that your printer is in good mechanical condition. Check that all belts are properly tightened, that there are no damaged components, and that the axles are moving smoothly.

USE BASIC PROFILES: Start with the basic print profiles we provide. These can be easily found in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website. You can select the extruder or printer model you have and make adjustments to suit your specific needs.

PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Some advanced materials require some printing experience, especially when it comes to complex geometries. Experiments and practice can help you better understand how to achieve optimal results.

MATERIAL GUIDES: Check out our material guides, if available. These guides contain useful information on how to deal with specific materials and solve common problems.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

We are here to support you in your 3D printing experience and to answer your questions. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support team.

What is the right setting to work with my part?

We understand that achieving optimal results when 3D printing can be a challenge, especially when it comes to specific parts or particular materials. However, it is important to note that WASP Technical Support does not provide services for the development of optimized print profiles for individual products.

However, we want to offer solutions to help you achieve your printing goals. Here are some options available to you:

OPTIMIZATION PATH: You can consider the option of a customized optimization path with WASP’s experts. This can be accomplished in the form of a tailor-made course or a specific printing service. Along the way, you’ll work closely with our experts to develop the ideal settings for your specific part or material.

BASIC RESOURCES: To get started, you can check out the  basic print profiles we provide for our printers. These profiles can serve as a starting point and can be customized to suit your needs.

PERSONAL EXPERIMENTS: The printing experience is a continuous learning process. Experiment with the settings and test to see which ones work best for your specific case.

GENERAL SUPPORT: Our technical support team is available to answer your general questions about 3D printing and our printers. While we can’t develop specific profiles, we can offer advice on how to deal with certain issues or challenges.

We want you to get the most out of your 3D printing experience, and we’re here to provide the support you need. If you would like more information about optimization paths or have specific questions, we encourage you to contact our team to discuss your options.

The machine does not print well with the settings stated in the data sheet (e.g. speed)

It is important to emphasize that the specifications stated in the technical data sheet of our machine represent limit values and not absolute guarantees for every type of printing or processing. These values are provided for reference and may vary based on various factors, including the material used, the complexity of the part geometry, and other printing parameters.

For example, high-speed printing may only be possible with certain materials and parts that have relatively simple geometries. Optimizing print profiles for production speed is a complex process that requires experience and knowledge.

If you’re interested in learning how to optimize a print profile for production speed or have questions about settings specific to your application, we recommend that you consider taking our Advanced 3D Printing course. This course is designed to deepen your understanding of 3D printing and to hone your skills in managing print settings. You can find more details about the course and how to participate here.

We’re here to give you the support and resources you need to get the best results from your machine; So, don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions or need assistance specific to your application.

Change ZEN Extruder tool

Which pellets can be printed?

To determine if a pellet is suitable for 3D printing, it is crucial to evaluate several factors, including processing temperatures and the characteristics of the pellet itself.

PROCESSING TEMPERATURES:
The first consideration concerns the processing temperatures. Each material requires specific temperatures to be printed effectively. For example, polycarbonate (PC) requires printing temperatures around 300°C.  It is important to ensure that the 3D printer is able to reach and maintain these temperatures. If the required temperatures are very high, it may be necessary to use a printer specifically designed for such materials.

PELLET SIZE & SHAPE:
The size of the pellet is crucial. Pellets that are too large, usually larger than 3-4 mm, are not suitable for 3D printing. Additionally, it is important to consider the shape of the pellet – sharp or uneven surfaces can cause problems during extrusion and printing.

HOMOGENEITY OF PELLET SIZE:
Consistency in the size of the pellets is important. Significant differences in size can cause power problems and blockages in the printer extruder.

PRESENCE OF FIBER:
If the pellet contains fiber (such as reinforcing fibers), its concentration must be assessed. If too high (over 15%, for example) it can make the material too rigid and difficult to print. In addition, it is important to check the compatibility of the fiber with the polymer matrix to avoid adhesion issues between the printed parts.

MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDATIONS: Some 3D printer manufacturers, such as WASP, provide specific recommendations on materials and brands that can be used with their machines. It’s always a good practice to go through these compatibility lists to make sure the pellets are suitable for your printer.

SPECIALIZED CONSULTATIONS: In the case of particular materials or if you have doubts about the printability of a specific pellet, it is possible to seek specialized advice. Experts in the 3D printing industry can provide specific information on material compatibility and offer customized solutions for your printing needs.

In summary, choosing pellets for 3D printing requires careful evaluation of the requirements for temperature, size, shape, fiber content, and manufacturer’s recommendations. Consultation with industry experts can be invaluable when working with particular or complex materials.

Use slicing software that is not supported by the machine (Cura, Slic3r)

WASP technical support is unable to provide assistance with the configuration and optimization of profiles for slicing software other than the official one, which is Simplify3D.

From an open perspective, our technology is compatible with various slicing software such as Cura, Slic3r etc…. Here are some tips you can follow to set up these softwares:

CONFIGURE SOFTWARE: Download and install the desired slicing software on your computer. If possible, select your WASP printer as the configuration option. Alternatively, choose a generic configuration that approximates your printer’s specifications.

PRINTER SPECIFICATIONS: Gather the technical specifications of your WASP printer, such as nozzle diameter, maximum print size, and other key settings.

SETUP: Configure the slicing software according to your printer’s specifications and the manufacturer’s recommendations. This may take time and experimentation to achieve optimal results.

PRINT TESTS: Run print tests to make sure everything is working as expected. Carefully check the first layer, adhesion to the print bed, and overall print quality.

EXPERIMENTATION AND OPTIMIZATION: You may need to experiment with different settings in your slicing software for the best results. Edit one variable at a time and take note of changes in print quality.

Keep in mind that using unofficially supported slicing software can pose challenges and require experimentation for optimal results. In addition, WASP Technical Support will not be able to provide specific assistance for issues related to the use of unofficial slicing software.

Use machine-supported slicing software (SIMPLIFY3D)

WASP machines support Simplify3D as slicing software, and it is recommended, especially for those who are new to the machine, to use this slicer. Here’s how you can use it:

DOWNLOAD & INSTALLATION: First of all, make sure you have downloaded and installed Simplify3D on your computer. You can find the software on the developer’s website at https://www.simplify3d.com/

UPLOADING YOUR 3D MODEL: Launch Simplify3D and upload your 3D model to the workspace. You can do this by dragging the template file directly into the software window.

SETTING UP THE PRINT JOB: You can now start setting up the print job. This includes setting the type of material you’re using, nozzle temperature, print speed, and other specific settings. You can also use the specific profiles developed by WASP for each extruder and material, which you can find on the https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ website.

GCODE GENERATION: Once the print job is configured, click “Prepare to Print” to generate the Gcode file. This file will contain all the necessary instructions for your 3D printer to create the desired part.

PRINT: Finally, upload the Gcode file to your WASP printer and start the printing process. Be sure to follow the printer’s instructions carefully when loading and setting up.

Remember that Simplify3D also offers FAQs, video tutorials, and helpful guides on their https://www.simplify3d.com/ website, which can be very helpful in getting the most out of the software’s potential.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

How can i create an object similar to one seen on your website or communication?

The objects you see on our website and in our communications are often produced by third parties or made using specific 3D modeling and printing technologies. Technology and production techniques can vary greatly based on the specific applications and artists involved.

To make objects similar to the ones you’ve seen, you’ll want to gain skills  in 3D modeling and 3D printing. You can start by taking specialized training courses such as our Advanced 3D Printing Course, which offers in-depth training in advanced modeling, printing, and techniques.

Additionally, it’s important to be creative and experiment with your ideas to develop unique and personalized pieces. You can use 3D modeling software like Blender, Fusion 360, or Tinkercad to create your models and then use a 3D printer to materialize your creations.

Vacuum activation procedures

The VACS, which stands for Vacuum Active Control System, is a fundamental system that your printer uses to ensure a removable print base.

This system offers a number of benefits, including

  • Ability to easily remove print plates after the printing process to make it easier to detach your printed objects
  • Ability to easily replace a print bed if it is damaged
  • Flexibility in the use of print beds made of different materials for greater chemical compatibility with the printing material

Caution: Before proceeding with the position and removal of removable print plates, it is extremely important to verify that the temperature of the print bed is equal to or lower than 50 °C.  Attempting to remove the print plates at higher temperatures may cause severe deformation of the print plates.

To activate the VACS and use it effectively, follow these steps carefully:

CLEANLINESS CHECK: Make sure the aluminum vacuum top is clean. The presence of debris or print debris could hinder the system’s ability to create the necessary vacuum.

POSITIONING THE SILICONE GASKET: Insert the silicone gasket into its intended housing.

VACUUM ACTIVATION: With the door closed, activate the vacuum function using the PRINT > VACUUM command. The switch should switch from the OFF to ON position. Once activated, the control will indicate the ON position, and the pump will start working (this can be heard by the sound of the motor being activated from inside the machine).

POSITIONING THE REMOVABLE BUILD PLATES: Open the door and place the removable build bed on the gasket, centering it accurately. You can make this easier by applying light, even pressure to the deck.

ADHESION CHECK: Check that the platter is firmly anchored to the aluminum vacuum seal. If you notice that the plate is not adhering properly, it means that the operation has failed. If so, repeat the process from the point checking the following aspects:

  • Cleaning the aluminum vacuum top, cleaning it if necessary.
  • The integrity of the silicone gasket, replacing it if necessary.
  • The flatness and integrity of the removable print plate, replacing it if necessary.

Vacuum display at wrong interface

When you start the machine, it performs an initial vacuum cycle. If for some reason this cycle fails, the system detects an error and displays the vacuum failure symbol (usually in white). In case of “VACUUM FAILURE”, it is recommended to restart the entire system, leaving the machine off for at least one minute.

This reboot procedure may resolve temporary issues. However, if the error message persists even after restarting, it is recommended that you contact technical support immediately for a more thorough diagnosis and resolution of the problem.

How do I detach the pieces from the platter without damaging both elements?

Detaching parts from the print bed without damaging either the workpiece or the bed requires delicacy and attention. Here’s a proper procedure to do it:

  • CHECK THE PRINT TEMPERATURE AND SPEED OF THE FIRST LAYER: Make sure that the print temperature of the first layer is correct. Too high a temperature can cause excessive adhesion between the workpiece and the platter. Conversely, a temperature that is too low can lead to weak adhesion. Adjust the temperature according to the material you are using.
  • AVOID GLUE ABUSE: Do not overapply glues or adhesives to the surface of the print bed. Too much glue can make it difficult for parts to detach.
  • DON’T SQUEEZE THE FIRST LAYER TOO MUCH: When printing the first layer, make sure the extruder head doesn’t over-crush the material on the surface of the plate. This can increase adhesion and make detachment more difficult. Keep in mind that parts with a lot of surface area in contact with the print bed will tend to stick more.
  • USE A SPATULA: Use a spatula to remove the pieces from the plate, especially if you have used a Brim or if the piece is well adhered to. Use the spatula gently to avoid damage.
  • PAY ATTENTION TO THE ANGLE OF THE SPUDGER: Make sure that the spatula does not have too high an angle when using it. Tilting too much can damage the platter. Use the spatula at a flatter angle than the print bed.

CORRECT PROCEDURE:

  • COOLING: After completing the print, allow both the printed part and the print bed to cool. This can help reduce the adhesion between the two.
  • CHECK ADHESION: Check if the workpiece is excessively adhered to the plate. Use the spatula to figure out the degree of adhesion.
  • CREATE TENSION: To detach the part, tilt the build bed slightly while holding the part in place. This creates a tension that can facilitate detachment.

IF THE WORKPIECE DOES NOT COME OFF IMMEDIATELY:

  • Avoid forcing the platter too much to avoid breakage.
  • Use the spatula to create a small distance between the plate and the molded part.

What should i do if the parts come off the plate during printing?

If parts come off the plate during 3D printing, there are several steps you can take to improve adhesion and prevent this problem. Here are some solutions and tips:

CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE DECK: Make sure the leveling of the deck is correct. An unlevel plate can cause adhesion problems. If necessary, re-level the deck.

CORRECT PRINT OFFSET: Check and adjust the print offset before you start printing. The smooth offset helps ensure that the first layer fits properly on the plate.

LAYER HEIGHT CHECK: Check that the layer height set in your slicing software is compatible with your printer’s nozzle diameter. In general, the layer height should not exceed half the diameter of the nozzle.

CORRECT GLUE USE: The use of glue can improve adhesion, especially on ABS plates and wide geometries. Apply a thin layer of glue to the surface of the bed before you start printing.

TIPS TO IMPROVE ADHESION:

  • USING BRIM: If the pieces are small in size or tend to come off easily, consider using a Brim. The Brim is an additional flat support structure that surrounds your object and improves adhesion to the platter. Make sure the Brim has at least 3-4 turns.
  • SLIGHTLY SMALLER PLATTER OFFSET: You can adjust the platter offset so that it is slightly smaller than its actual size. For example, if the platter is 4mm thick, you could set an offset of 3.8mm. This can improve adhesion.
  • INCREASE THE EXTRUSION TEMPERATURE: Increasing the extrusion temperature for the first layer can help improve adhesion. In addition, you can consider using the “firecup” heated to a temperature between 70°C and 100°C to further improve the initial adhesion.

IMPORTANT NOTES:

  • GLUE USAGE: We do not recommend the use of glues other than those recommended, such as DIMAFIX, as they can react unpredictably with your printing material and plate.

Choosing the right dish to use

Choosing the right print bed mainly depends on the type of material you are printing. Here are some general guidelines to help you select the right dish:

PRINTING MATERIAL: The main consideration is the material you are using. Some materials require specific printing plates for best results. For example,:

  • ABS: For most materials, including ABS, rigid printing plates can be used. ABS has better adhesion to heated plates.
  • PP: For soft materials such as polypropylene (PP) or TPU, it is advisable to use a flexible or adhesive print bed. These materials tend not to adhere well to rigid plates.

PRINTING SURFACES: In addition to the material of the plate, it is possible to use alternative printing surfaces to those supplied. However, it is important that these surfaces are:

  • PLANAR: Surfaces must be completely flat and uniform to ensure accurate printing.
  • EQUIVALENT DIAMETER: Make sure the diameter of the print surface is equivalent to the one supplied to avoid adhesion and alignment issues.

CONSTANT THICKNESS: Regardless of the  type of plate you choose, it is essential that the thickness is consistent over its entire surface. This will contribute to a uniform and accurate print.

It is important to note that although it is possible to use print surfaces other than those supplied, WASP cannot guarantee optimal results with unofficial surfaces. Therefore, it is advisable to refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations or test different plates and coatings to determine which one works best with your specific printing material.

What should I do if I can’t get the dish to sous vide the dish?

If you’re having trouble getting your print bed to sous vide your baby, it’s important to perform a series of checks and procedures to resolve the issue. Here’s what you can do:

CHECK THE CLEANLINESS OF THE UNDER-BED: Carefully check if there is any residue or dirt under the printbed. Even a single grain of pellets or dirt can compromise the creation of the vacuum. Thoroughly clean the surface under the print bed.

CLEAN THE GROOVES: Be sure to clean any grooves or crevices on the build bed as well. Build-up of dirt or residue can interfere with the creation of the vacuum.

CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE VACUUM PUMP: Check that the vacuum pump is working properly. Make sure it is able to generate the pressure needed to create the vacuum. It also checks to see if there are any leaks in the system.

PRINT BED GASKET: Check that the gasket is properly positioned around the build bed. Check the gasket for signs of wear or damage. Replace it if necessary.

PROPER BED PLACEMENT: Make sure the print bed is positioned correctly and centered. Check that the clips or latches used to secure the table top to the stand are properly positioned and that they hold the table securely in place.

IF THE BED IS WARPED: If the print bed is warped or has a curvature, try placing an appropriate weight on the deformed area. This can help straighten the bed and allow the vacuum to work more effectively.

Manual leveling for WASP 4070 FX/HDP/ZX

Manual leveling is a control that allows you to adjust the tilt of the aluminum bed to match the printer’s reference. Poor levelling can be the cause of uneven adhesion of the first layer to the plane.

CAUTION: The manual leveling procedure will erase the values saved during the last self-calibration procedure. These values will be permanently deleted.

MANUAL LEVELING:

  • You can find the manual leveling command in ADVANCED > TOOLS > MANUAL LEVELING.
  • This control is based on the three-point principle, where the machine moves the instrument to the vertices of an equilateral triangle proportional to the aluminum plane.
  • At each point, by turning a screw, the distance between the instrument and the plane is adjusted.
  • Use a piece of paper (80-90 g) as the thickness between the bed and the tip of the printer.
  • Once complete, make sure that the height in the center of the plane is similar to the other points. If it is not, please contact our support.

AFTER MANUAL LEVELING:

  • After manual leveling, it is recommended to perform the self-calibration procedure before printing

What is the right setting to work with my extruder and material?

To get the best printing results with your extruder and material, we recommend that you use the optimized print profiles that we make available in the download section of our website. Be sure to select the correct profile for your specific extruder, verifying that the photo on the site matches the model you intend to print on.

You can find these print profiles here. By using our optimized profiles, you’ll have a solid foundation to start successfully printing your favorite material and achieve high-quality results.

Keep in mind that choosing the right setting can vary depending on a number of factors, including the type of material, the complexity of the part’s geometry, and your specific printing needs. Therefore, we recommend that you use our profiles as a starting point and make any adjustments or customizations according to your specific needs.

If you have any further questions or need assistance finding the right setting for your application, please do not hesitate to contact us. We’re here to help you get the best results with your printer and material.

The machine does not print a WASP-supported material well

WASP machines are designed to offer optimal performance with WASP certified materials. This choice was made to ensure the quality and reliability of the product for customers. If you’re having trouble printing a WASP-supported material, there are a few considerations to keep in mind:

STANDARD PROFILES: Make sure you are using the correct standard profile for the material you are using. The profiles are available in the download section of the WASP website and are specific to each extruder.

COMPLEX GEOMETRIES: Advanced materials may require some printing experience, especially when dealing with complex geometries. Make sure your 3D model and print settings are suitable for the specific material you’re using.

MATERIAL GUIDES: WASP provides material guides that provide detailed information on supported materials and best practices for printing. You can check out these guides to get more information about the material you’re using.

SPECIFIC COURSES: WASP also offers specific courses on printing advanced materials. These courses are designed to help you develop advanced skills in printing technical materials.

Remember that even if a material is supported by the machine, you may need to make some adaptations or gain experience in printing it, especially if it is advanced materials.

The machine only gives me problems with a certain G.code

If you’re having trouble with a specific .gcode file, there are a few guidelines to follow to ensure that the file is of good quality and doesn’t cause any problems for your machine. Here are some tips:

NO SPACE IN THE NAME: Make sure that the .gcode file name does not contain any spaces or special characters. Keep it simple and avoid spaces or symbols.

START WITH A STANDARD PROFILE: Always start with a standard print profile that matches your machine and material settings. Change only the settings you need. You can use the specific profiles developed by WASP for each extruder and material, which you can find on the https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ website.

BEWARE OF SCRIPTS: Some slicers allow the use of custom scripts or commands in the .gcode file. Make sure the scripts are correct and don’t cause any running issues.

DON’T CHANGE THE SETTINGS: Don’t  randomly change the settings in the .gcode file if you don’t fully understand the effect. This may cause printing problems.

REMOVE THE FLASH DRIVE/SD PROPERLY: When removing the USB stick or SD card from the computer, make sure to do so safely and avoid abruptly pulling out the storage media.

AVOID STRANGE COMMANDS: Check that the .gcode file does not contain any strange or unusual commands that could cause abnormal behavior in your printer.

DO NOT USE . GCODES CREATED FOR OTHER MACHINES OR EXTRUDERS: .GCODE files are specific to your machine and extruder. Do not use .gcode files created for other machines or configurations.

If you’ve followed these guidelines and you’re still having issues with your .gcode file, it may be helpful to contact a WASP operator for further support.

The machine does not print like another printer of another model that i already use.

FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) and LDM (Liquid Deposition Modeling) 3D printers are designed with specific mechanics and extrusion systems that can greatly influence the printing process and final results. It is important to keep in mind that each 3D printer has its own inherent characteristics, benefits, and limitations, which may differ from one model to another.

When comparing two different printers, it’s crucial to consider the following:

PRINT PROFILE SETUP: Each 3D printer requires a specific print profile that determines temperature, speed, layer height, and other critical variables settings for optimal results. Make sure that you have correctly configured the print profile for your printer according to the material and the type of object you want to print.

PRINTER SIZE: The size of the  printer affects the type and size of the objects you can print. Make sure that the printer is suitable for the size of your projects and that the settings are proportionate to the print bed.

TYPE OF MATERIALS: Different types of materials, such as PLA, ABS, PETG, etc., require specific settings to achieve high-quality printing results. Check that you are using the correct material for your printer and make sure that the settings are adapted to it.

MODEL GEOMETRY: The complexity and geometry of your model can affect the printing process. Verify that the model has been properly designed for 3D printing and that it does not contain any modeling errors.

MAINTENANCE: Make sure your printer is well-maintained and that all components are in good working order. Mechanical problems or the presence of material residue inside the extruder can adversely affect print quality.

USER EXPERIENCE: Learning how to use a new printer takes time and experience. Familiarize yourself with the operation of your printer, perform calibration tests, and gain experience in troubleshooting any issues that may arise during printing.

Bed Touch

The “Bed Touch” is a safety system designed to prevent rubbing and collisions between the nozzle and the bed during the printing process. This system is based on the same sensor used during the printer’s self-calibration process. Its main function is to immediately stop the printing process when the Bed Touch sensor detects contact between the nozzle and the print bed. This is done to prevent accidental damage that could occur and that could cause wear and tear on the build bed or nozzle.

The most common causes why a nozzle may come into contact with the print bed include:

MACHINE NOT CALIBRATED: For example, if the print bed is dirty or the printer has not been calibrated correctly.

ERROR IN THE . GCODE: This could occur if the first layer was programmed too low, leading to the nozzle lowering too much.

CONDUCTIVE PRINTING MATERIAL: Some printing materials, such as those filled with carbon fibers, can be conductive and cause unwanted contact with the build bed.

In this case, you must manually deactivate the Bed Touch system in order to print. Deactivation can be done using the

  • ADVANCED–> Settings–> Bed Touch (Firmware with Interface or Earlier)
  • PREPARE–> Bed Touch (firmware with interface or later)

WARNING: Once the Bed Touch is disabled, the machine will no longer be able to stop printing in the event of accidental contact between the nozzle and the print bed. It is therefore recommended to pay attention to the cases listed above before printing.

Note: It is important to remember that each time you turn the printer off and on again, the Bed Touch system will be re-enabled.

To check which firmware is currently installed on your printer, you can press the “INFO” button on the toolbar at the bottom of the interface. This will provide information about the firmware in use on your machine

How to print a .gcode with the secondary extruder?

Do you have a code for only one extruder but want to print it with the secondary (right) extruder instead of the primary (left) one?

Change Extruder command

When you launch the print in the TUNE menu there is a command called “Change extruder”.
The moment it is clicked:

  1. printing pauses
  2. the temperature of the active extruder is copied to the other extruder
  3. once the processing is reached, it restarts with the secondary extruder

The command also works to move the processing from the secondary extruder to the primary one.

Create a secondary extruder profile on Simplify3D

If you need to print repeatedly with the secondary extruder, you will need a specific profile.
It is not difficult to create one from a correct single extruder profile.
We recommend that you download an official one from the Download section of the WASP site.

  1. Open the single extruder profile you want to start from on Simplify3D
  2. Enter the “Extruder” window
  3. Select the extruder in the left pane
  4. Select the item “Tool 1” (“Tool 1”) in the “Extruder Toolhead Index” item.
  5. Enter the “Temperature” window
  6. Select the extruder in the left pane (be careful not to confuse it with the top)
  7. Select the item “T1” in the “Temperature Identifier” item (replacing “T0”).
  8. Click on “Save as new” at the top right
  9. Enter a name for the new profile (specify that it is for the right extruder)
  10. Click OK to save the new profile.

Whenever you create a gcode using this profile the machine

Continuous Printing

The “Continuous Printing” mode is a function that allows printing to resume immediately when the filament spool runs out. When the sensor detects the absence of wire, the processing switches to the second nozzle, which continues with the same settings and temperatures. Here are the requirements and considerations to be aware of:

REQUIREMENTS:

  • EXTRUDER: This function can only be activated with the WASP ZEN X Extruder.
  • NOZZLE CALIBRATION: Both nozzles should be well-calibrated to ensure a smooth transition between the two.
  • NO CLOGGING: Neither nozzle should be clogged to prevent interruptions during passage.
  • PROPER MATERIAL LOADING: Material must be properly loaded on both nozzles to ensure continuous printing.
  • END OF WIRE SENSOR: Make sure the end of wire sensor is not turned off in the advanced settings.

CONSIDERATIONS: The “Continuous Printing” option must be activated in the advanced settings to enable this mode.

Make sure you meet all of these requirements before using the “Continuous Printing” mode to ensure a seamless printing process.

Change height (set Z MAX)

“Height change” or “SET Z MAX” refers to the value that defines the distance between the printer nozzle and the print bed when the printer is in its zero (home) position. This height is a critical parameter in machine calibration and must be set correctly to ensure optimal operation.

Typically, the height value is set automatically during the printer’s self-calibration process. When you turn on the machine, you can see the height value saved in the printer’s memory on the monitoring screen, referred to as “Z”.

However, in some situations, you may need to manually change the height value. This might be useful in the following cases:

  • THE PRINTER DOES NOT HAVE AN AUTO-CALIBRATION SYSTEM: Some printers may not be equipped with an automatic self-calibration system, and therefore you must manually set the height value.
  • HEIGHT VALUE CORRECTION: In some circumstances, you may need to make slight adjustments to the height value to ensure proper adherence of the first print layer to the print bed.

When you manually change the height value, the following scenarios might occur:

  • HEIGHT INCREASE: If you increase the height value, the nozzle will lift further off the print bed. This could be useful to avoid collisions or to ensure sufficient space between the nozzle and the bed.
  • HEIGHT DECREASE: If you decrease the height value, the nozzle will lower closer to the print bed. This may be necessary to achieve a better adhesion of the first print layer.

To manually change the height value, each printer is equipped with a dedicated command that can usually be found in the “PREPARE” menu. The specific name of the command varies depending on the printer model or firmware version used.

Auto-calibration

Auto-calibration is an automatic process that calibrates the flatness of the print bed, simplifying the adhesion of the first print layer. Here’s how to activate and perform auto-calibration on your WASP 3D printer:

NOTE:  This procedure is compatible with the following WASP printer models: 2040 T2, 2040 PRO, 3MT IND, IND 4.0 Line, IND X Line.

CAUTION: Auto-calibration must be initiated when both the build bed and extruder are already heated to the desired print temperatures.

CLEANING THE NOZZLE AND BUILD BED: Make sure the nozzle and build bed are clean and free of plastic residue or other impurities.

CONTACT NOZZLE PLACEMENT: With the printer turned off, gently position the nozzle so that it is in contact with the print bed.

TURNING ON THE PRINTER:  Turn on the printer and wait for the message “AUTOCALIB ENABLED” to appear on the display. If the message does not appear, you may need to warm up the extruder and clean the nozzle or print bed better.

START AUTO-CALIBRATION: Start the auto-calibration procedure as follows:

For 2040 T2, 2040 PRO and 4070 IND models:

  • Go to the main menu and select “PREPARE,” then “AUTOCALIB.”

For the Industrial 4.0 Line and the Industrial X Line

  • Go to the “PRINT” menu and select “AUTOCALIB.”

WAITING FOR HEATING : After starting the self-calibration, wait a few minutes for the extruder to reach the necessary temperature.

PERFORMING AUTO-CALIBRATION: The auto-calibration procedure will be performed automatically by the printer and will last a few minutes.

IMPORTANT NOTE: auto-calibration is activated by an electrical contact between the nozzle and the print bed. Make sure the print bed is conductive if it is different from the one supplied. If not, you will need to use the manual leveling procedure.

Free Zeta System INDUSTRIAL LINE 4.0 and INDUSTRIAL X LINE

The Free Z System is an important feature in WASP printers that allows you to shoot a print from a specific height. This is especially useful if you want to change material or color during printing or in case of unexpected interruptions. Here’s how to use the Free Z System:

MEASURE THE HEIGHT OF THE PREVIOUS LAYER:

  • First, you’ll need to measure the Z value (the height) of the last printed layer. You can do this by following these steps:
  • Access the menu: PREPARE / FREE Z SYSTEM.
  • Using the command arrows, slowly move the nozzle closer until it touches the previous printed layer.
  • When the nozzle is in contact, confirm by clicking “GO FOR GCODE.”

G-CODE FILE SELECTION:

  • You will now need to select the G-code file that contains instructions for resuming printing from a specific height.

WAIT FOR THE FILE TO LOAD:

  • The printer will start loading the G-code file. The length of this process can vary depending on the size and complexity of the file. Be patient while the printer completes loading.

RESUMPTION OF PRINTING:

  • Once the G-code file has been successfully uploaded, the printer will start printing from the corresponding layer at the specified height. This allows you to easily handle material changes or interruptions without having to restart the entire print.

Note: Keep in mind that this can take several minutes, depending on the height of the workpiece.

How the Resurrection System works

The Resurrection System is a feature in WASP printers that allows you to resume printing from where you left off due to a power outage. Here’s how it works:

SAVING PRINT COORDINATES: When the printer detects a power failure or any other situation that requires the print to stop, it will save the precise print coordinates to the point where the interruption occurred. These coordinates are saved in a file named “RESURR” in the directory of the original print file.

SELECTING THE  RESURR FILE: To resume printing where you left off, you will need to select the “RESURR” file from the printer’s memory or SD card.

WAITING FOR RESTART:  Once the “RESURR” file is selected, the printer will begin the restart process. During this process, the nozzle will be brought to a temperature of 100°C to avoid abrupt detachment from the workpiece.

AUTOMATIC AXIS HANDLING: After reaching the desired temperature, the printer’s motion axes will be automatically returned to the “home” position.

RESUME PRINTING: Once the nozzle and hotbed temperature reaches the temperature specified in the original print file (.gcode), printing will resume from the exact location where it left off. This process avoids defects or discontinuities in printing.

IMPORTANT NOTE: During the Resurrection process, if the nozzle remains in contact with the molded part, do not send the motion axes to the “home” position. The Resurrection procedure begins with heating the nozzle to 100°C to prevent damage to the molded part.

WASP ZEN Extruder calibration

The calibration of the ZEN extruder is based on the vernier principle, similar to that used in a common caliber. This process involves two overlapping grids with slightly different cell sizes, where each line represents one-tenth of a millimeter (0.1 mm). The position of the second extruder (T1) relative to the first (T0) will be determined by the coordinate in which the two grids precisely overlap.

HERE’S HOW TO CALIBRATE THE ZEN EXTRUDER:

  • Print the calibration file containing the overlapping grids.
  • Check which coordinate corresponds to a perfect alignment of the grids. For example, if the grids perfectly match the x=4 and y=3 coordinates (Figure 2), you will need to add 0.4 mm to the x coordinate and 0.3 mm to the y coordinate to get the correct calibration.
  • Record the found calibration values and add them (or subtract, if they are negative) to the existing values in your printer’s “Menu>Advanced>Motion>Extr Settings” menu.
  • After setting the new calibration values, relaunch the print file. You will notice that the coordinate will now correspond to x=0 and y=0 (figure 3), indicating a correct calibration.

Calibrating the ZEN extruder is an important step in ensuring that both printer extruders are aligned accurately. Follow these steps carefully and add the correct calibration values to get accurate print results.

Filament breaks

Whether the filament breaks can be affected by various factors, including the quality of the filament and environmental conditions. Here are some considerations:

FILAMENT QUALITY: Filament quality is a critical factor in preventing breakage. Low-quality filaments or filaments with defects may have weak spots or impurities that increase the likelihood of breakage. Make sure you’re using high-quality filaments from reputable suppliers.

EXPOSURE TO SUN AND MOISTURE: Prolonged exposure to the sun or moisture can affect the structure of the filament. Moisture can absorb into the filament, weakening its integrity and making it more brittle. Always store the filament spool inside the original bag or in an airtight container to protect it from these environmental conditions.

FILAMENT MATERIAL: The type of filament material can affect its breaking strength. Some materials, such as PLA, may be more brittle than others, such as ABS or PETG. Choose the filament material according to your specific printing needs.

HANDLING DURING PRINTING: When printing, make sure that the filament flows freely without friction or twisting, and that there are no contact points or corners that are too tight that could cause tension and breakage of the filament.

Preparing the filament for 3d printing

In the context of 3D printing using filament materials, it is essential to consider the sensitivity of the polymer material to moisture. Some filaments can be hygroscopic, absorbing moisture from the environment, and this can greatly affect the printing process and the characteristics of the material itself. Here are some important things to consider:

EFFECTS OF MOISTURE ON FILAMENTS:

  • RELEASE OF WATER VAPOR, FUMES, AND SOUNDS: During extrusion at elevated temperatures, water trapped in the material’s granules can vaporize rapidly, resulting in the release of water vapor, fumes, and sounds. In some cases, smoke may be visible, affecting the quality of the print.
  • MICROBUBBLES OR IMPERFECTIONS IN THE PRINT: Trapped moisture can cause microbubbles to form in the molten material during extrusion, resulting in imperfections on the surface of the printed object.
  • EXCESS FILAMENT BETWEEN PARTS (STRINGING): Moisture can affect the viscosity of the molten material, causing filaments to form between different parts of the printed object. This phenomenon, known as “stringing,” may require post-press finishing operations.

FILAMENT DRYING: To address these issues, it is crucial to dry hygroscopic filaments thoroughly before printing. This process removes moisture trapped in the material’s granules, ensuring that the filament is optimal for the printing process. Using vacuum dryers or ovens at specific temperatures may be necessary to get rid of excess moisture.

MATERIAL SELECTION: It is important to note that some filaments, such as PVA and PET-G, are known to be hygroscopic and require special precautions during use. Conversely, materials such as polypropylene (PP) may not require prior drying.

In summary, managing moisture is crucial when using filaments for 3D printing, and drying the material thoroughly will help ensure quality prints.

Extruder cleaning

OPERATION A

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Load the extruder with filament as usual.
  • Turn the thread puller knob counterclockwise to start extrusion and clockwise to retract the filament. Alternate these motions, emphasizing extrusion, until you see clean filament coming out of the nozzle.

OPERATION B

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • If the wire struggles to be extruded, there may be a small particle or blockage in the nozzle. Use a fine needle to gently remove these particles from the nozzle.

OPERATION C

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Press down on the quick coupling ring located at the top of the extruder.
  • Slide the connecting tube between the extruder and the thread puller upwards.
  • Insert the PLA filament directly from the top into the hole of the extruder and manually push it down until the extrusion begins.

OPERATION D

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Press down on the quick coupling ring located at the top of the extruder.
  • Slide the connecting tube between the extruder and the thread puller upwards.
  • Insert a steel wire with a diameter of 2 mm inside the steel barrel of the extruder.

Push the steel wire down until you remove any blockages or material residue that may be clogging the steel barrel.

The plastic on my new SPITFIRE Extruder looks worn

The plastic used for the outer shell of SPITFIRE extruders is designed to be highly resistant to high temperatures and wear, thanks to the use of a technopolymer filled with a significant amount of fiberglass (50%). This gives the material remarkable durability and resistance to high temperatures, allowing the extruders to work for long periods without melting or deformation, even during repeated assembly and disassembly on the machine.

However, this special composition of the plastic can affect the external appearance of the extruder. The matte, uneven finish, with some lighter areas, is the result of the varying density of the fiberglass on the surface of the material. This is a normal appearance and does not affect the functionality or performance of the extruder.

In short, even though the outer plastic of the SPITFIRE extruder may look worn or have an uneven finish, it is designed this way to ensure long life and resistance to high temperatures, which is essential for 3D printing applications.

Replacing the thread puller

Here is a step-by-step procedure for replacing the thread puller on your 3D printer, following the video tutorial provided:

STEP 1: TURN OFF THE PRINTER

  • Before starting any maintenance, make sure your 3D printer is completely turned off and disconnected from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.

STEP 2: PULL OUT THE NYLON TUBE

  • Press down on the quick-release ring located on top of the extruder.

STEP 3: UNPLUG THE 8-PIN CONNECTOR

  • Detach the 8-pin connector located on the wiring harness between the thread puller and the top of the printer.

STEP 4: CUT THE CABLE TIES

  • Using scissors or a wire cutter, cut the plastic cable ties that hold the thread puller cables in place.

STEP 5: REPLACE THE 3 RUBBER BANDS

  • Remove the 3 green/clear rubber bands from the old thread puller.
  • Replace the old thread puller with the new one.
  • Insert the green/transparent rubber bands into the three pins located at the top of the new thread puller.

STEP 6: INSERT THE NYLON TUBE

  • Insert the nylon tube with a diameter of 6 mm into the quick coupling located above the extruder.

STEP 7: RECONNECT THE 8-PIN CONNECTOR

  • Reconnect the 8-pin connector to the wiring harness between the thread puller and the top of the printer.

STEP 8: REPLACE THE CABLE TIES AND CABLES

  • Reposition the plastic ties and cables as they were before maintenance.

The thread puller jerks or does not turn

If your 3D printer’s thread puller jerks or doesn’t spin properly, follow these steps to fix the problem:

STEP 1: CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED

  • If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the molten filament may have difficulty flowing properly, causing a blockage in the thread puller’s feeding system. Perform a manual leveling of the print bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust residue that may hinder proper operation.

STEP 2: CHECK THE PRINT SETTINGS

  • LAYER HEIGHT: Make sure the layer height is set correctly. If it is too high, the material may have difficulty being extruded. The maximum allowable height is half the diameter of the nozzle used for printing.
  • TEMPERATURE: Check that the temperature is set correctly for the material you are printing. If it is too low, the filament may have difficulty being extruded.
  • PRINT SPEED: Check the print speed and make sure it is within the recommended parameters. If the print is too fast, it may cause problems for the thread puller to extrude the material properly.

NOTE: It is advisable to always start with the basic print profiles available in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website, as these profiles are optimized for the specific material and printer.

STEP 3: CHECK EXTRUDER CLEANLINESS

  • Make sure that the nozzle is well cleaned and that the material is extruded evenly. If necessary, clean the extruder (see chapter “Extruder cleaning”)

STEP 4: CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER

  • Make sure the thread puller’s power cord is properly connected to the printer. In case it is not connected, connect the cable while the printer is turned off.
  • Turn on the printer and send an autohome. Check that the thread taker control is active. To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Prepare > Movement > 1mm > Extruder.
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller does not idle but is well connected to the motor shaft. To do this, press and hold the thread puller trigger while turning the black knob. Then, screw in the M3 grub screw until it matches the flat surface of the motor shaft, making sure the toothed part is aligned with the filament passage.
  • Check if the thread puller motor fan is running. If it is not active, there may be a problem with the fan. If this is the case, it is advisable to contact technical support for a diagnosis and possible replacement of the fan.

The double-pull thread puller jerks or does not turn

If your 3D printer’s thread puller jerks or doesn’t spin properly, follow these steps to fix the problem:

STEP 1: CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED

  • If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the molten filament may have difficulty flowing properly, causing a blockage in the thread puller’s feeding system. Perform a manual leveling of the print bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust residue that may hinder proper operation.

STEP 2: CHECK THE PRINT SETTINGS

  • LAYER HEIGHT: Make sure the layer height is set correctly. If it is too high, the material may have difficulty being extruded. The maximum allowable height is half the diameter of the nozzle used for printing.
  • TEMPERATURE: Check that the temperature is set correctly for the material you are printing. If it is too low, the filament may have difficulty being extruded.
  • PRINT SPEED: Check the print speed and make sure it is within the recommended parameters. If the print is too fast, it may cause problems for the thread puller to extrude the material properly.

NOTE: It is advisable to always start with the basic print profiles available in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website, as these profiles are optimized for the specific material and printer.

STEP 3: CHECK EXTRUDER CLEANLINESS

  • Make sure that the nozzle is well cleaned and that the material is extruded evenly. If necessary, clean the extruder (see chapter “Extruder cleaning”)

The extruder goes down at the end of the print

The situation where the extruder goes down at the end of the print can be problematic and cause damage to the printed part. Here’s how to deal with this situation:

STEP 1: DISABLE THE “M84” COMMAND

  • Log in to your slicing software (e.g., Cura, PrusaSlicer, Simplify3D) and open the print profile you are using.
  • Look for the “ending scripts” section within the print profile settings. This section contains the commands that are automatically executed at the end of each print.
  • Find the “M84” command within the “ending scripts” section and disable it by adding a semicolon (;) before the command, as shown in the example: “; M84″.
  • Saves changes to the print profile.

Please note: After about 10 minutes, even if the “M84” command has been disabled, the motors will still deactivate automatically.

Error MINTEMP / MAXTEMP

The “MINTEMP” or “MAXTEMP” error on a 3D printer is associated with extruder temperature issues. Here’s what you can do to fix this:

STEP 1: CHECK THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • Check that the extruder’s power RJ45 connector is properly connected to the extruder. Make sure it is well inserted and that there are no loose joints or faulty connections.

STEP 2: RESTART THE PRINTER

  • After checking and, if necessary, replacing the RJ45 connector, restart the printer. This will allow the system to perform a new control on the extruder temperature.

STEP 3: CHECK THE TEMPERATURE OF THE EXTRUDER

  • When heating the extruder, check that the temperature gradually increases and reaches the desired value without error. If you notice that the temperature is not reached or fluctuates significantly, there may be a problem with the extruder’s temperature sensor or heater.

STEP 4: CONTACT TECHNICAL SUPPORT

  • If, despite the attempts described above, the error persists, it is recommended that you contact Technical Support as you need a more thorough diagnosis to determine the specific cause and resolve the issue.

The surface of the workpiece is spongy

A spongy print surface can be the result of several problems in your 3D printer or printing process. Here are a number of things you can do to resolve this issue:

VERIFY THE G.CODE FILE:

  • Make sure that the Gcode file you generated by the slicing software is correct and error-free. Check that there are no modeling defects in the STL file, such as open edges or non-manifold surfaces, that could cause problems when printing.

VERIFY THE SLICING PARAMETERS:

  • Check that the parameters in the slicing software are correct. Make sure the nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-step per mm are set correctly according to the specifications of your printer and the material used.

CHECK THE EXTRUDER:

  • Check that the extruder’s power RJ45 connector is properly connected to the extruder.
  • Check that the hoses connecting the thread puller and extruder are well connected and have no clogging or dirt inside them.
  • Make sure the filament has been loaded correctly and has made it all the way to the melting zone inside the nozzle.
  • Check that the extruder’s cooling fan is working properly.

CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED:

  • If the nozzle is too close to the print bed, the molten filament may have difficulty coming out, causing a blockage in the thread puller and motor gear. Perform a manual leveling of the build bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust or debris that may be causing tension during printing.

CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER:

  • Make sure the wire puller’s power cord is securely connected to the printer’s motherboard. If necessary, connect the cable while the printer is turned off.
  • Check that the thread taker control is active in the printer menu: Menu > Prepare > Movement > 1mm > Extruder.
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller is well connected to the motor shaft and that it is not idling. You can do this by pressing and holding the thread puller pliers, leaving the system unlocked, and turning the black knob. Then screw the M3 grub screw onto the flat surface of the motor shaft, making sure the toothed part is aligned with the filament passage.
  • Check that the thread puller motor fan is running. If that doesn’t work, it’s a good idea to contact technical support.

Printing is staggered

If your print is offset, it may be due to lost footsteps in motion or other problems in the printing process. Here’s how you can fix this:

CHECK THE SPEED AND ACCELERATION IN THE GCODE:

  • Check the print speed in the Gcode file. Speeds that are too high can cause the belts to slip around the pulleys and lose steps. Make sure the print speed is set appropriately for your printer and the material used.
  • It also verifies the accelerations in the movements. Accelerations of more than 6000 mm/s² may cause belt slippage. Check that the acceleration settings are appropriate for your printer. Keep in mind that these figures may vary depending on the model of your printer.

CHECK THE EXTRUSION FLOW:

  • Controls the percentage of material flow set in the slicing software. A flow rate greater than 100% can cause excessive material build-up during printing, causing collisions between layers. Make sure the flow percentage is set correctly for the material you are using.

CHECK THE EXTRUDER NOZZLE:

  • Check that the extruder nozzle is properly attached. If the nozzle is unscrewed, it may cause bumps during printing. Make sure it is tightly screwed in and in the correct position.

The printer makes noise

The 3D printer can make noises during printing, and these noises can have several causes. Here are some things you need to do to identify and fix your noise problem:

COOLING FAN:

  • Check the cooling fan on the extruder. If it is set to maximum speed, it may be noisy. From the slicing software, adjust the fan speed according to your needs. A slower speed may reduce noise without compromising print quality.
  • Make sure the fan propellers are intact and that they are not dirty or clogged with print residue or dust. If this is the case, turn off the printer and very carefully clean any debris or dust from the propellers or fan body.

NOISE LEVEL OF THE HANDLING AXES:

  • Make sure that the noise is not coming from the cooling fan on the extruder. If so, follow the directions above.
  • Check the smoothness of the pads on the moving axes by sliding them slowly with constant movements from top to bottom and vice versa. If there is friction and abnormal noise, you may need to contact technical support for maintenance.
  • Check the correct smoothness of the belt return bearings, which are located at the bottom of the slide rails. If the bearings are worn or damaged, they may be the cause of the noise.
  • Check the teeth of the belts. If you notice any expansion between the teeth of the belt or pinching, it may cause noise during printing. If so, you should replace the belt.

LOSS OF MOTOR STEPS:

  • Check to see if the printer’s motors are overheating during printing. Excessive overheating can cause loss of steps. Make sure the motors are properly cooled and are not clogged with dust or debris.
  • Check that the pulleys are firmly fixed on the motor shafts. Pulleys slipping on the shaft can cause lost steps.
  • Make sure the motor mount is stable and doesn’t move during printing.

EXTRUDER SHOCKS:

  • Check the leveling of the print bed. Keep a distance of about 0.1 mm between the nozzle and the print bed (thickness of an 80g A4 sheet).
  • Check the size of the print file. If the file exceeds the maximum print volume size, it may hit the walls of the printer. Set the correct parameters in the slicing software. (Starting with F20_rev6, F21_rev3, and F30_rev4 firmware, there is a software limitation.)
  • Check to see if any move plug-ins are installed when printing. Sometimes, these plug-ins can cause shocks. Make sure that the sum of the part width and the value of the plug-in does not exceed the maximum printable diameter. (Starting with F20_rev6, F21_rev3, and F30_rev4 firmware, there is a software limitation.)
  • Check that the extruder nozzle is securely fastened and is not unscrewed.

Failure to extrude filament

Not extrusion of filament in a 3D printer can be caused by several issues. Here are some checks and solutions to address this issue:

GCODE VERIFICATION:

  • Make sure that the STL file used to generate the Gcode has no modeling defects, such as non-solid surfaces or geometry issues. Use 3D modeling software such as Blender or MeshLab to correct any defects in the model.

VERIFICATION OF SLICING PARAMETERS:

  • Control parameters in the slicing software, such as nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-steps per millimeter. Make sure they are configured correctly for your extruder and the type of filament you are using.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE EXTRUDER:

  • Make sure the extruder power cord is securely connected to the extruder. If it is not properly connected, do so with the printer turned off.
  • Check that the hoses connecting the thread puller to the extruder are well connected and free of clogging or dirt. You can remove the hose and inspect it for any blockages or obstructions.
  • Make sure the filament is properly fed into the melting zone inside the nozzle. Check to see if the filament is stuck or caught inside the extruder.

CHECKING THE LEVELING OF THE BUILD BED:

  • Controls the leveling of the print bed. If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the filament may have difficulty coming out, causing the thread puller’s gear and motor to become blocked. Manually level the build bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust or debris.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER:

  • Make sure the power cord of the thread puller is securely connected. If it isn’t, connect the cable with the printer turned off.
  • Make sure the thread taker control is active in the printer’s menu (menu/prepare/movement/1mm/extruder).
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller is securely connected to the motor shaft. You can do this by pressing and holding the thread puller pliers and turning the knob. Make sure that the M3 grub screw is screwed onto the flat surface of the motor shaft, keeping the toothed part centered with the filament passage.
  • Check that the thread puller motor fan is working properly. If the fan is not running, you may need to contact technical support for repair or replacement of the motor.

FILAMENT CONTROL:

  • Make sure the filament is of good quality and has no knots or imperfections.
  • Check that the filament has not expired, as the old filament may be more susceptible to clogging.
  • Check the humidity of the print material, particularly if it is moisture-sensitive filaments. Absorbed moisture can adversely affect print quality, causing problems such as burrs, blemishes, and changes in material properties.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL:

  • Check that the nozzle temperature is set correctly for the type of filament you are using. Too low a temperature can cause blockages.

What should i do if the material tends to wrinkle in the sharp parts?

Material wrinkling on sharp parts during 3D printing is a common problem caused by material shrinkage and built-up stresses.


FACTORS INFLUENCING MATERIAL SHRINKAGE:

  • CHOOSING THE RIGHT MATERIAL: Consider whether it is essential to use the current material for your print. Sometimes, there are versions of materials with less shrinkage. Choosing a material with different characteristics might solve the problem of ripple.
  • SHRINKAGE MANAGEMENT: Ripple is directly related to shrinkage that occurs during material cooling. You can consider using materials with a low shrinkage rate or adjust your print settings to minimize this effect.
  • MODEL ORIENTATION: Changes the orientation of the model in the printout. Examining the arrangement of objects in the print can help reduce wrinkling. Experiment with different angles and orientations to find the best solution.

To address this issue, you can take several steps depending on the goals of your print:

IF YOU ARE PRINTING A PART WITH MECHANICAL PRECISION:

  • LOWER THE LAYER HEIGHT: Reduce the layer height when printing. This can improve accuracy and reduce the rippled effect on sharp parts.
  • INCREASE COOLING FANS: Increase the speed or intensity of the cooling fans on your 3D printer. This helps to cool the material more quickly and reduce tensions.
  • REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY: Reduce the temperature of the extruder slightly. This can help reduce material shrinkage.
  • REDUCE SPEED: Decrease the print speed. Printing more slowly can allow the material to settle more evenly and reduce tensions.

IF YOU ARE PRINTING FOR AESTHETIC APPEARANCE:

  • INCREASE FLOW: Increases the flow of material during printing. This can help to better fill in the sharp parts and reduce the frizzy effect.

IF THE PROBLEM PERSISTS:

  • LOWER THE LAYER HEIGHT: If the problem continues, further consider lowering the layer height to achieve greater accuracy.
  • INCREASE IN COOLING FANS: Keep experimenting with cooling fans. Increased cooling can often improve the aesthetic appeal of printed parts.
  • REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY: If material shrinkage is still an issue, you can further reduce the temperature of the extruder.
  • REDUCE SPEED: Reduce the print speed to allow for greater accuracy in sharp parts.

By experimenting with these settings and taking appropriate measures, you can improve the quality of your printed parts and reduce wrinkling on sharp parts. The best solution will depend on your specific printing needs and the material used.

The workpiece does not stick to the print bed

If the printed part does not adhere properly to the print bed, there are several measures you can take to improve adhesion:

LEVELING THE BUILD BED: Make sure the build bed is properly leveled. Follow the recommended leveling procedure for your 3D printer to ensure that the first layer is even and well-fitting to the bed.

PREPARING THE PRINT SURFACE: You can apply a layer of spray glue or stick glue to create an adhesive surface on the print bed. Be sure to apply a thin, even layer. This can help improve the adhesion of the first layer of your model.

TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT: Check that the temperature of the nozzle and heatbed is set correctly according to the material you are using. Consult the filament manufacturer’s technical specifications for recommended temperatures. Often, slightly increasing the temperature of the build bed can improve adhesion.

USING ADHESIVE SUBSTRATES: Some people prefer to use adhesive substrates such as Kapton tape, blue painter’s tape, or BuildTak surfaces. These substrates can greatly improve the adhesion of the material to the build bed.

USING A RAFT OR BRIM: If the problem persists, you can consider using a “raft” or “brim.” These are additional structures that are printed underneath your model and provide a larger surface area for adhesion to the build bed.

CLEANING THE PRINT BED: Make sure the build bed is clean and free of any previous filament residue or other impurities. You can clean the build bed with isopropyl alcohol or soap and water.

EXPERIMENT WITH SLICING SETTINGS: You can also experiment with your software’s slicing settings. For example, you can increase the “first layer extrusion width” or adjust the height of the first layer to improve adhesion.

Try these solutions one at a time until you can achieve the desired adhesion for your molded parts. Sometimes, a bit of experimentation is needed to find the ideal settings for your environment and print material.

The machine doesn’t print my part well

3D printing can be a complex process, and achieving perfect results requires attention to various details. Here are some steps you can follow to deal with this situation:

CHECK YOUR SLICER SETTINGS: Make sure you are using the slicer settings that are in accordance with your machine. You can find our official press profiles on our website. These profiles have been optimized to work best with our printers.

CHECK MODEL GEOMETRY: Check that your 3D  model has geometry that is suitable for 3D printing. It is important that the model is well-designed, with no gaps, holes in the surface of the model, or geometric errors that could cause problems when printing.

Please note that WASP cannot guarantee positive results for projects that are not compatible with printing technology.

CLEANING THE EXTRUDER: A clean extruder is essential for proper printing. Check that the extruder is free of debris or jammed filaments. Periodic cleaning of the extruder can help avoid extrusion problems.

USE THE PROPER PRINTING MATERIAL: Make sure you are using the right printing material for your needs. Each material has its own specific characteristics and requirements, so choose the material that best suits your project and the printer you use.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

The machine does not print well a material that is not supported by WASP

We understand the challenges that can arise during 3D printing, especially when using complex materials or geometries. However, it is important to note that Delta WASP printers have been designed and tested to work with materials that we certify. This choice was made to ensure the quality and reliability of our products.

In view of this, we cannot provide specific print profiles or detailed assistance for the use of materials that are not certified by WASP. In addition, we do not take responsibility for non-conforming results on finished parts or for the behavior of printers with such materials.

However, that doesn’t mean we’re disinterested in your results. To help you get the most out of your printer and the material you’re using, here are some steps you can follow:

USE BASIC PROFILES: Start with the basic print profiles we provide. These can be easily found in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website. You can select the extruder or printer model you have and make adjustments to suit your specific needs.

PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Some advanced materials require some printing experience, especially when it comes to complex geometries. Experiments and practice can help you better understand how to achieve optimal results.

MATERIAL GUIDES: Check out our material guides, if available. These guides contain useful information on how to deal with specific materials and solve common problems.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

We are here to support you in your 3D printing experience and to answer your questions. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support team.

The machine does not print this part well with this material

If you’re having trouble printing a part with a certain material, it’s important to perform a series of checks and considerations to achieve better printing results. Here are some steps to follow:

SUITABLE MATERIAL: Check that the material you are using is suitable for your application. Different materials have different properties, such as printing temperature, strength, and flexibility. Make sure you’re using a material that’s compatible with your project.

Some materials can absorb moisture or deteriorate over time, which can affect print quality. Check that the material is not degraded.

CHECK MODEL GEOMETRY: Check that your 3D  model has geometry that is suitable for 3D printing. It is important that the model is well-designed, with no gaps, holes in the surface of the model, or geometric errors that could cause problems when printing.

Please note that WASP cannot guarantee positive results for projects that are not compatible with printing technology.

CHECK YOUR SLICER SETTINGS: Make sure you are using the slicer settings that are in accordance with your machine. You can find our official press profiles on our website. These profiles have been optimized to work best with our printers.

CLEAN EXTRUDER: Check that the printer extruder is clean and free of material residue or obstructions. Clean the nozzle if necessary and make sure the filament flows freely.

PROPER MECHANICAL OPERATION: Check that your printer is in good mechanical condition. Check that all belts are properly tightened, that there are no damaged components, and that the axles are moving smoothly.

USE BASIC PROFILES: Start with the basic print profiles we provide. These can be easily found in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website. You can select the extruder or printer model you have and make adjustments to suit your specific needs.

PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Some advanced materials require some printing experience, especially when it comes to complex geometries. Experiments and practice can help you better understand how to achieve optimal results.

MATERIAL GUIDES: Check out our material guides, if available. These guides contain useful information on how to deal with specific materials and solve common problems.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

We are here to support you in your 3D printing experience and to answer your questions. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support team.

What is the right setting to work with my part?

We understand that achieving optimal results when 3D printing can be a challenge, especially when it comes to specific parts or particular materials. However, it is important to note that WASP Technical Support does not provide services for the development of optimized print profiles for individual products.

However, we want to offer solutions to help you achieve your printing goals. Here are some options available to you:

OPTIMIZATION PATH: You can consider the option of a customized optimization path with WASP’s experts. This can be accomplished in the form of a tailor-made course or a specific printing service. Along the way, you’ll work closely with our experts to develop the ideal settings for your specific part or material.

BASIC RESOURCES: To get started, you can check out the  basic print profiles we provide for our printers. These profiles can serve as a starting point and can be customized to suit your needs.

PERSONAL EXPERIMENTS: The printing experience is a continuous learning process. Experiment with the settings and test to see which ones work best for your specific case.

GENERAL SUPPORT: Our technical support team is available to answer your general questions about 3D printing and our printers. While we can’t develop specific profiles, we can offer advice on how to deal with certain issues or challenges.

We want you to get the most out of your 3D printing experience, and we’re here to provide the support you need. If you would like more information about optimization paths or have specific questions, we encourage you to contact our team to discuss your options.

The machine does not print well with the settings stated in the data sheet (e.g. speed)

It is important to emphasize that the specifications stated in the technical data sheet of our machine represent limit values and not absolute guarantees for every type of printing or processing. These values are provided for reference and may vary based on various factors, including the material used, the complexity of the part geometry, and other printing parameters.

For example, high-speed printing may only be possible with certain materials and parts that have relatively simple geometries. Optimizing print profiles for production speed is a complex process that requires experience and knowledge.

If you’re interested in learning how to optimize a print profile for production speed or have questions about settings specific to your application, we recommend that you consider taking our Advanced 3D Printing course. This course is designed to deepen your understanding of 3D printing and to hone your skills in managing print settings. You can find more details about the course and how to participate here.

We’re here to give you the support and resources you need to get the best results from your machine; So, don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions or need assistance specific to your application.

What’s the difference between Spitfire and Spitfire X Extruders?

The Spitfire X extruder represents the latest evolution in the Spitfire extruder line. Here are some technical details and important information about its compatibility:

GENERAL COMPATIBILITY: The Spitfire X extruder is available in two versions with different voltages: 12V and 24V. This voltage choice allows it to be used with various Delta WASP printers.

12V VERSIONS COMPATIBILITY: The 12V version of the Spitfire X extruder (the new version of the Spitfire Black extruder) is compatible with the following Delta WASP printers:

  • Delta WASP 2040
  • Delta WASP 2040 Turbo
  • Delta WASP 4070
  • Delta WASP 60100

24V VERSIONS COMPATIBILITY: The 24V version of the Spitfire X extruder (the new version of the Spitfire Red extruder) is compatible with the following Delta WASP printers:

  • Delta WASP 2040 PRO
  • Delta WASP 2040 T2
  • Delta WASP 4070 IND
  • Delta WASP 4070 IND 4.0
  • Delta WASP 2040 IND 4.0
  • Delta WASP 3MT IND

MAIN DIFFERENCE: The main innovation of the Spitfire X extruder compared to previous versions is its internal system. This system allows changing only the nozzle, which is made of hardened steel, rather than the entire cartridge. This simplifies the maintenance process and nozzle replacement, making the operation faster and more efficient.

NOTE: It’s important to note that the Spitfire X extruder does not support complete cartridge replacement. Therefore, it’s not possible to install complete cartridges on this extruder. Additionally, nozzles specifically designed for the Spitfire X extruder are not compatible with previous versions of Spitfire extruders.

Make sure to choose the correct version of the Spitfire X extruder based on your Delta WASP printer and keep these compatibility and nozzle replacement system details in mind when maintaining or upgrading your 3D printer.

SPITFIRE System – changing the cartridge

Here is a detailed procedure for changing the cartridge in the Spitfire System, applicable to both the Spitfire Red and Spitfire Black extruders (note that it is not compatible with the Spitfire X version):

STEP 1: PREPARATION

Before starting the cartridge replacement process, ensure that the extruder temperature is set to 200°C.  This temperature is important to facilitate cartridge removal.

STEP 2: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE CARTRIDGE

STEP 3: VERIFICATION AND CALIBRATION

After reaching the desired printing temperature, verify that the extruder functions correctly, and the new material is extruded without issues. Calibration is necessary to ensure precise printing and avoid collisions between the nozzle and the print bed.

SPITFIRE X System – change the nozzle

Here is a step-by-step procedure for changing the nozzle in the Spitfire X system:

STEP 1: TOOLS NEEDED

  • Make sure you have a 7mm hex wrench available, which will be used to unscrew the nozzle.

STEP 2: NOZZLE REPLACEMENT

  • Heat the extruder to 200°C.  This temperature is crucial to soften any material residue inside the nozzle and make it easier to remove.
  • Once the desired temperature is reached, use the 7mm hex wrench to unscrew the nozzle from the extruder. Do this carefully and counterclockwise.

CAUTION: When removing the nozzle, be careful not to force too much, as it may be tightened so as to prevent material leakage during printing.

  • Once you have unscrewed the nozzle, carefully remove it from the extruder.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE NEW NOZZLE

  • Get the new nozzle you want to install. Make sure it’s the correct size for your print project.
  • Place the new nozzle in the extruder. Make sure you insert it correctly and securely.
  • Use the 7mm hex wrench to screw the nozzle back in a clockwise direction. Make sure the nozzle is tight but without excessive force to avoid damage.

WARNING: When screwing the nozzle back on, make sure that it has reached the stop, i.e. that it is fully screwed and well seated in the extruder.

  • Once you’ve secured the new nozzle, check that it’s properly installed and tightened.

STEP 4: VERIFY

  • After changing the nozzle, check that the extruder is working properly and that the new nozzle is not leaking material during printing.

Use slicing software that is not supported by the machine (Cura, Slic3r)

WASP technical support is unable to provide assistance with the configuration and optimization of profiles for slicing software other than the official one, which is Simplify3D.

From an open perspective, our technology is compatible with various slicing software such as Cura, Slic3r etc…. Here are some tips you can follow to set up these softwares:

CONFIGURE SOFTWARE: Download and install the desired slicing software on your computer. If possible, select your WASP printer as the configuration option. Alternatively, choose a generic configuration that approximates your printer’s specifications.

PRINTER SPECIFICATIONS: Gather the technical specifications of your WASP printer, such as nozzle diameter, maximum print size, and other key settings.

SETUP: Configure the slicing software according to your printer’s specifications and the manufacturer’s recommendations. This may take time and experimentation to achieve optimal results.

PRINT TESTS: Run print tests to make sure everything is working as expected. Carefully check the first layer, adhesion to the print bed, and overall print quality.

EXPERIMENTATION AND OPTIMIZATION: You may need to experiment with different settings in your slicing software for the best results. Edit one variable at a time and take note of changes in print quality.

Keep in mind that using unofficially supported slicing software can pose challenges and require experimentation for optimal results. In addition, WASP Technical Support will not be able to provide specific assistance for issues related to the use of unofficial slicing software.

Use machine-supported slicing software (SIMPLIFY3D)

WASP machines support Simplify3D as slicing software, and it is recommended, especially for those who are new to the machine, to use this slicer. Here’s how you can use it:

DOWNLOAD & INSTALLATION: First of all, make sure you have downloaded and installed Simplify3D on your computer. You can find the software on the developer’s website at https://www.simplify3d.com/

UPLOADING YOUR 3D MODEL: Launch Simplify3D and upload your 3D model to the workspace. You can do this by dragging the template file directly into the software window.

SETTING UP THE PRINT JOB: You can now start setting up the print job. This includes setting the type of material you’re using, nozzle temperature, print speed, and other specific settings. You can also use the specific profiles developed by WASP for each extruder and material, which you can find on the https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ website.

GCODE GENERATION: Once the print job is configured, click “Prepare to Print” to generate the Gcode file. This file will contain all the necessary instructions for your 3D printer to create the desired part.

PRINT: Finally, upload the Gcode file to your WASP printer and start the printing process. Be sure to follow the printer’s instructions carefully when loading and setting up.

Remember that Simplify3D also offers FAQs, video tutorials, and helpful guides on their https://www.simplify3d.com/ website, which can be very helpful in getting the most out of the software’s potential.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

How can i create an object similar to one seen on your website or communication?

The objects you see on our website and in our communications are often produced by third parties or made using specific 3D modeling and printing technologies. Technology and production techniques can vary greatly based on the specific applications and artists involved.

To make objects similar to the ones you’ve seen, you’ll want to gain skills  in 3D modeling and 3D printing. You can start by taking specialized training courses such as our Advanced 3D Printing Course, which offers in-depth training in advanced modeling, printing, and techniques.

Additionally, it’s important to be creative and experiment with your ideas to develop unique and personalized pieces. You can use 3D modeling software like Blender, Fusion 360, or Tinkercad to create your models and then use a 3D printer to materialize your creations.

What is the right setting to work with my extruder and material?

To get the best printing results with your extruder and material, we recommend that you use the optimized print profiles that we make available in the download section of our website. Be sure to select the correct profile for your specific extruder, verifying that the photo on the site matches the model you intend to print on.

You can find these print profiles here. By using our optimized profiles, you’ll have a solid foundation to start successfully printing your favorite material and achieve high-quality results.

Keep in mind that choosing the right setting can vary depending on a number of factors, including the type of material, the complexity of the part’s geometry, and your specific printing needs. Therefore, we recommend that you use our profiles as a starting point and make any adjustments or customizations according to your specific needs.

If you have any further questions or need assistance finding the right setting for your application, please do not hesitate to contact us. We’re here to help you get the best results with your printer and material.

The machine does not print a WASP-supported material well

WASP machines are designed to offer optimal performance with WASP certified materials. This choice was made to ensure the quality and reliability of the product for customers. If you’re having trouble printing a WASP-supported material, there are a few considerations to keep in mind:

STANDARD PROFILES: Make sure you are using the correct standard profile for the material you are using. The profiles are available in the download section of the WASP website and are specific to each extruder.

COMPLEX GEOMETRIES: Advanced materials may require some printing experience, especially when dealing with complex geometries. Make sure your 3D model and print settings are suitable for the specific material you’re using.

MATERIAL GUIDES: WASP provides material guides that provide detailed information on supported materials and best practices for printing. You can check out these guides to get more information about the material you’re using.

SPECIFIC COURSES: WASP also offers specific courses on printing advanced materials. These courses are designed to help you develop advanced skills in printing technical materials.

Remember that even if a material is supported by the machine, you may need to make some adaptations or gain experience in printing it, especially if it is advanced materials.

The machine only gives me problems with a certain G.code

If you’re having trouble with a specific .gcode file, there are a few guidelines to follow to ensure that the file is of good quality and doesn’t cause any problems for your machine. Here are some tips:

NO SPACE IN THE NAME: Make sure that the .gcode file name does not contain any spaces or special characters. Keep it simple and avoid spaces or symbols.

START WITH A STANDARD PROFILE: Always start with a standard print profile that matches your machine and material settings. Change only the settings you need. You can use the specific profiles developed by WASP for each extruder and material, which you can find on the https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ website.

BEWARE OF SCRIPTS: Some slicers allow the use of custom scripts or commands in the .gcode file. Make sure the scripts are correct and don’t cause any running issues.

DON’T CHANGE THE SETTINGS: Don’t  randomly change the settings in the .gcode file if you don’t fully understand the effect. This may cause printing problems.

REMOVE THE FLASH DRIVE/SD PROPERLY: When removing the USB stick or SD card from the computer, make sure to do so safely and avoid abruptly pulling out the storage media.

AVOID STRANGE COMMANDS: Check that the .gcode file does not contain any strange or unusual commands that could cause abnormal behavior in your printer.

DO NOT USE . GCODES CREATED FOR OTHER MACHINES OR EXTRUDERS: .GCODE files are specific to your machine and extruder. Do not use .gcode files created for other machines or configurations.

If you’ve followed these guidelines and you’re still having issues with your .gcode file, it may be helpful to contact a WASP operator for further support.

The machine does not print like another printer of another model that i already use.

FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) and LDM (Liquid Deposition Modeling) 3D printers are designed with specific mechanics and extrusion systems that can greatly influence the printing process and final results. It is important to keep in mind that each 3D printer has its own inherent characteristics, benefits, and limitations, which may differ from one model to another.

When comparing two different printers, it’s crucial to consider the following:

PRINT PROFILE SETUP: Each 3D printer requires a specific print profile that determines temperature, speed, layer height, and other critical variables settings for optimal results. Make sure that you have correctly configured the print profile for your printer according to the material and the type of object you want to print.

PRINTER SIZE: The size of the  printer affects the type and size of the objects you can print. Make sure that the printer is suitable for the size of your projects and that the settings are proportionate to the print bed.

TYPE OF MATERIALS: Different types of materials, such as PLA, ABS, PETG, etc., require specific settings to achieve high-quality printing results. Check that you are using the correct material for your printer and make sure that the settings are adapted to it.

MODEL GEOMETRY: The complexity and geometry of your model can affect the printing process. Verify that the model has been properly designed for 3D printing and that it does not contain any modeling errors.

MAINTENANCE: Make sure your printer is well-maintained and that all components are in good working order. Mechanical problems or the presence of material residue inside the extruder can adversely affect print quality.

USER EXPERIENCE: Learning how to use a new printer takes time and experience. Familiarize yourself with the operation of your printer, perform calibration tests, and gain experience in troubleshooting any issues that may arise during printing.

Auto-calibration

Auto-calibration is an automatic process that calibrates the flatness of the print bed, simplifying the adhesion of the first print layer. Here’s how to activate and perform auto-calibration on your WASP 3D printer:

NOTE:  This procedure is compatible with the following WASP printer models: 2040 T2, 2040 PRO, 3MT IND, IND 4.0 Line, IND X Line.

CAUTION: Auto-calibration must be initiated when both the build bed and extruder are already heated to the desired print temperatures.

CLEANING THE NOZZLE AND BUILD BED: Make sure the nozzle and build bed are clean and free of plastic residue or other impurities.

CONTACT NOZZLE PLACEMENT: With the printer turned off, gently position the nozzle so that it is in contact with the print bed.

TURNING ON THE PRINTER:  Turn on the printer and wait for the message “AUTOCALIB ENABLED” to appear on the display. If the message does not appear, you may need to warm up the extruder and clean the nozzle or print bed better.

START AUTO-CALIBRATION: Start the auto-calibration procedure as follows:

For 2040 T2, 2040 PRO and 4070 IND models:

  • Go to the main menu and select “PREPARE,” then “AUTOCALIB.”

For the Industrial 4.0 Line and the Industrial X Line

  • Go to the “PRINT” menu and select “AUTOCALIB.”

WAITING FOR HEATING : After starting the self-calibration, wait a few minutes for the extruder to reach the necessary temperature.

PERFORMING AUTO-CALIBRATION: The auto-calibration procedure will be performed automatically by the printer and will last a few minutes.

IMPORTANT NOTE: auto-calibration is activated by an electrical contact between the nozzle and the print bed. Make sure the print bed is conductive if it is different from the one supplied. If not, you will need to use the manual leveling procedure.

Free Zeta System

The Free Z System is an important feature in WASP printers that allows you to resume a print based on a known height. This is especially useful when you want to change material or color during printing, or when an unexpected interruption occurs. Here’s how to use the Free Z System:

MEASURING THE HEIGHT OF THE PREVIOUS LAYER:

  • First, you’ll need to measure the Z value (the height) of the last printed layer. You can do this by following these steps:
  • Access the printer menu: MENU / PREPARE / MOVE AXIS / 10,1,0.1 / Z AXIS.
  • Using these commands, slowly move the nozzle closer to the top of the previous layer until it touches the printed part.
  • Mark the value of Z when the nozzle touches the previous layer.

CONFIGURING THE FREE Z SYSTEM:

  • You can now configure the Free Z System. Follow these steps:
  • Access the menu: MENU / FREE Z SYSTEM.
  • Enter the Z value you previously measured.

G-CODE FILE SELECTION:

  • Once you have entered the value of Z, select the G-code file for your print.

FILE UPLOAD:

  • Wait for the G-code file to load. This process can take some time, especially if the file is very large or complex.

EXECUTION OF THE FREE Z SYSTEM:

  • Once the G-code file has been successfully uploaded, the printer will run the Free Z System and resume printing from the corresponding layer at the specified height. This allows you to change material or deal with interruptions without having to restart the entire print.

Note: Keep in mind that this can take several minutes, depending on the height of the workpiece.

Load filament

Heat the extruder, through the menu > prepare > preheat PLA / ABS.

Removal: Once it reaches the proper temperature, manually extrude some material and then, pushing the filament driver lever down, pull the filament out from the extruder.

Replacement: With the extruder hot, insert the new filament, and manually rotate the black knob counterclockwise until the material is extruded.

Leveling the build bed

Leveling the build bed is a crucial process for achieving high-quality 3D prints. Here’s how to do it step by step:

NOTE: Make sure the nozzle and print bed are heated to the recommended print temperatures before starting.

PRINTER PLACEMENT: Make sure the printer is placed on a flat, stable surface. This is crucial to ensure good leveling.

MENU ACCESS: Enter the printer’s menu. This procedure may vary depending on the printer model; Then, consult the manual specific to your device for step-by-step instructions.

NOZZLE & HOB HEATING: In the menu, go to the “Advanced” section and then “Temperatures”. Set the nozzle and build bed temperatures to the recommended settings for the material you are using. Wait for it to heat up completely.

MANUAL LEVELING: In the menu, go to the “Prepare” section and then “Manual Leveling”. Select “Location” to begin the leveling process.

FOLLOW THE SEQUENCE: Follow the sequence of steps carefully for leveling. Typically, the sequence is numbered as “01 02 03 01 02 03 00”. This indicates the order in which you will need to adjust the leveling points.

ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN NOZZLE AND BED: Use the knob at the base of the printer or the Phillips screws (in the case of the DeltaWASP 4070) on the heating plate to adjust the distance between the nozzle and the print bed. The goal is to achieve a distance of about 0.1 mm between the nozzle and the bed. Proper spacing is crucial for successful printing.

TEST WITH A SHEET OF PAPER: A good way to check the correct distance is to place a sheet of paper between the nozzle and the print bed. Try sliding it back and forth. The paper should slide without bending, but it should feel some slight friction. Keep adjusting until you reach this feeling.

Change WASP SPITFIRE Extruder

Here’s a step-by-step procedure on how to change the Wasp Spitfire extruder on your 3D printer:

STEP 1: TURN OFF THE PRINTER

  • Before starting any operation, make sure your 3D printer is turned off and disconnected from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.

STEP 2: UNPLUG THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • At the top of the extruder, locate the RJ45 connector and unplug it. This connector is used for electrical communication with the extruder.

STEP 3: REMOVE THE NYLON BOWDEN

  • At the top of the extruder, you will find a quick coupling for the nylon tube with a loop. Press down on the quick coupling ring and simultaneously pull up on the nylon tube.

STEP 4: UNSCREW THE SCREWS AND REMOVE THE EXTRUDER

  • Underneath the aluminum plate that supports the extruder, you’ll find two fixing screws. Using a 2.5mm Allen key, unscrew these two screws. Once removed, you can pull up to completely remove the extruder from the printer.

STEP 5: INSERT THE NEW EXTRUDER

  • Take the new extruder you want to install and place it in the same location from which you just removed the previous extruder.

STEP 6: TIGHTEN THE SCREWS

  • Under the aluminum plate, screw the two screws back in to securely secure the new extruder in place. Be sure to tighten the screws properly, but avoid applying excessive force so as not to damage the new extruder.

STEP 7: INSERT THE NYLON BOWDEN

  • Reconnect the 6 mm diameter nylon tubing into the extruder quick coupling. Make sure it’s securely inserted and locked in place.

STEP 8: RECONNECT THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • Reconnect the RJ45 connector that you disconnected earlier, making sure to pass it over the rubber bands.

STEP 9: TURN ON THE PRINTER AND CALIBRATE THE PRINT BED

  • Turn on the printer and proceed to calibrate the print bed. This will ensure that the new extruder setup is properly leveled and that printing can be done accurately.

Modify height (calibration)

The height (often called Z max) of the printer is the value that defines the distance between the nozzle and the print bed when it is in its zero position (home).
The height is part of the calibration values ​​of the machine and the right value is essential for good operation.

When the machine is turned on, in the monitoring screen it is possible to see among the values ​​shown that of the height saved in the machine (indicated as Z).

As the height value changes, the following scenarios may occur:

To manually change the height value, each printer is equipped with a dedicated command within the PREPARE menu, depending on the version it can be called:

  • Modify height;
  • Modification Z max (Set Z max).

The procedure for changing the Z max depends on the machine and firmware version.

  • Position the print bed and clean the nozzle;
  • Send the printer to zero position (autohome);
  • Use the command Prepare> Modify height (or Set Z max).

The screen allows you to choose a scale value at the top (between 10 mm, 1 mm, 0.1 mm) and consequently to go down by that value on the Z axis.

  1. With scale value 10, turn the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 20 mm from the printing surface;
  2. Click the knob once to select the scale value at 10mm;
  3. With scale value 1, rotate the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 2 mm from the printing surface;
  4. Click the knob once to select the scale value at 0.1 mm;
  5. With a scale value of 0.1, turn the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 1 mm from the printing surface;
  6. Click the knob twice to activate the “SAVE Z” item;
  7. Turn the knob to display “OK”;
  8. Click to confirm and save the new Z max;
  9. The machine will exit the command and will automatically go to the Home position.

If necessary, complete the calibration with the Prepare> Manual leveling command, adjusting the plane with uniform distance in all positions.

Filament breaks

Whether the filament breaks can be affected by various factors, including the quality of the filament and environmental conditions. Here are some considerations:

FILAMENT QUALITY: Filament quality is a critical factor in preventing breakage. Low-quality filaments or filaments with defects may have weak spots or impurities that increase the likelihood of breakage. Make sure you’re using high-quality filaments from reputable suppliers.

EXPOSURE TO SUN AND MOISTURE: Prolonged exposure to the sun or moisture can affect the structure of the filament. Moisture can absorb into the filament, weakening its integrity and making it more brittle. Always store the filament spool inside the original bag or in an airtight container to protect it from these environmental conditions.

FILAMENT MATERIAL: The type of filament material can affect its breaking strength. Some materials, such as PLA, may be more brittle than others, such as ABS or PETG. Choose the filament material according to your specific printing needs.

HANDLING DURING PRINTING: When printing, make sure that the filament flows freely without friction or twisting, and that there are no contact points or corners that are too tight that could cause tension and breakage of the filament.

How to set up wifi on INDUSTRIAL LINE 4.0

To set up Wi-Fi on your Delta WASP Industrial Line 4.0 printer, you can follow the steps in the “How to Set WIFI” video in the “Info” section of the printer. Here are the key steps to set up Wi-Fi:

  • Turn on the printer.
  • On the home screen, look for the “i” (information) icon at the bottom right and select it.
  • On the information screen, search for and select the “How to Set WIFI” video.
  • Carefully follow the Wi-Fi setup steps in the video. This setup process will walk you through the steps required to connect your printer to an available Wi-Fi network.
  • Make sure you have the necessary information for Wi-Fi setup, such as your network name (SSID) and password.
  • Once the Wi-Fi setup is complete, the printer should be able to connect to the wireless network. You can then use this connection to control and manage the printer from remote devices or other equipment on the same network.

Please note that the specific procedure may vary slightly depending on the printer’s firmware or software version; So, make sure to follow the instructions given in the video and on the screen carefully.

I can’t connect the printer to my network

If you don’t see the affected SSID in the Wi-Fi settings drop-down menu, this may indicate that the Wi-Fi signal is too weak or noisy in the area where the printer is located. To fix this, here are some possible solutions:

CHECK SIGNAL COVERAGE: Make sure the printer is placed in an area with good Wi-Fi coverage. You can do this by bringing the printer closer to the Wi-Fi router or by using a Wi-Fi repeater to extend coverage in the area where the printer is located.

CHECK YOUR SECURITY SETTINGS:  Make sure your Wi-Fi network security settings are compatible with those supported by your printer: WPA2/PSK, WEP, and MSCHAP v2. Verify that your network is properly configured for one of these authentication modes.

USE AN ALTERNATE NETWORK: If possible, try connecting your printer to an alternate Wi-Fi network with better coverage or less interference.

Note: If the printer still does not detect the Wi-Fi network despite these attempts, you should contact technical support

Configure your printer with static IP

You can configure the printer with a static IP address, but the options depend on the network connection you use. Below, we’ll explain how to do this on an Ethernet network and the limitations related to the Wi-Fi network.

CONFIGURATION OVER ETHERNET NETWORK:

  • Access the printer’s setup menu using the control panel or a web browser.
  • Select the “No wifi static IP” option from the list of available SSIDs (network identifiers).
  • Fill in the fields for the desired static IP address. These fields include the IP address itself, the subnet mask, the default gateway, and the DNS servers.

After completing these steps, your printer will be configured with a static IP address on the Ethernet network.

SETUP ON WI-FI NETWORK: Unfortunately, it is not possible to configure a static IP address directly on the Wi-Fi network. This is because most Wi-Fi networks use DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) to automatically assign IP addresses to devices.

Note: Technical support is available for additional issues or questions about setting up your printer.

Remotely control the printer

To print from your computer after connecting the printer to Wi-Fi, follow these steps:

NOTE: Remote connection with the Delta WASP printer is ONLY possible if the printer and PC are connected to the same network. There is no remote control from a network other than the one to which the machine is connected (e.g. Check the print from home).

CHECK THAT YOU ARE CONNECTED TO THE SAME WI-FI NETWORK: Make sure that both your computer and printer are connected to the same Wi-Fi network. This is crucial to enable communication between the two devices.

FIND THE PRINTER’S IP ADDRESS: To access the printer, you will need to know its IP address. You can find it on the printer’s control panel.

ACCESS THE CONTROL PANEL VIA YOUR BROWSER: Open your favorite web browser on your computer and enter the printer’s IP address into your browser’s URL, such as “http://192.168.12.114/” (actual IP address may vary). Press Enter to start the connection.

LOG IN TO THE “OCTOPRINT” PLATFORM: Once you enter your IP address in the browser bar, you will be redirected to the Octoprint platform. This allows you to monitor and control the printer remotely, printing files, controlling temperatures and the camera, etc.

To be able to access all functions, you must log in with the following credentials:

  • USER: user
  • PASSWORD: password

NOTE: Please be careful to enter your credentials in lowercase without leaving any blank spaces at the end.

If you encounter any problems or need more specific details about your printer or the software you use, I recommend that you consult your printer’s manual or contact technical support

Printing a gcode on INDUSTRIAL 4.0 LINE

Filament loading on INDUSTRIAL 4.0 LINE

FILAMENT LOADING:

  • Access the “PRINT / LOAD MATERIAL” menu on your Industrial 4.0 printer.
  • Wait for the extruder (or extruders, if there are more than one) to reach the desired temperature.
  • Place the filament in the hole in the thread puller on the printer. Make sure the filament is well placed and runs unobstructed.
  • Confirm the start of the material loading process and wait for the filament to be extruded by the extruder. This can take a while, so keep your printer under control during this process.
  • After the filament is loaded, click on “AUTO HOME” to place the print head in the home position.

FILAMENT LOADING ON DUAL EXTRUDER:

If your printer has a dual extruder, you will need to repeat the operation separately for each extruder.

FILAMENT REMOVAL:

To remove the filament, follow these steps:

  • Heat the desired extruder via the printer menu, usually “prepare” > “preheat PLA/ABS”.
  • Once the correct temperature is reached, manually extrude a small amount of material from the filament.
  • Push down the “pliers” placed on the thread puller to unlock the filament itself, at the same time, gently pull the filament upwards to remove it completely from the extruder.

FILAMENT REPLACEMENT:

  • Make sure the extruder is still hot. You can use the printer’s menu to maintain the desired temperature.
  • Insert the new filament into the hole in the thread puller and make sure it is well seated.
  • Manually turn the black knob counterclockwise until the new material is extruded from the extruder. This ensures that the new filament is fully loaded and ready to print.

G.code analysis

Scanning the .gcode file is a feature built into the printer that allows you to check the print file before the print job starts. This analysis is used to identify potential problems or errors in the gcode file in advance, which could cause difficulties when printing.

The outcome of the .gcode analysis can be of two types:

  • SUCCESS: This means that no writing errors or problems were detected in the gcode file, and printing can start automatically without further hindrance.
  • FAILURE: If it fails, the printer detects errors in the gcode file and communicates it. In this situation, the printer will not start printing until the problem is resolved.

If this is not the case, there are several checks and actions to take:

SAVE THE GCODE AGAIN: First of all, try saving the gcode file to your computer’s memory again. After that, copy it to the external disk or to the printer’s memory (if possible the connection remotely via Octoprint).

SAFE DISK REMOVAL: Be sure to perform a “safe disk removal” before disconnecting the SD card or USB stick from your PC. This prevents damage to your data and storage device.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE EXTERNAL DISK: Make sure that the SD card or USB stick is functional. Check that there are no hardware issues that could affect the reading of the gcode file.

EXTERNAL DRIVE FORMATTING: Check that your SD card or USB stick is formatted as FAT-32 or ExFAT, as these formats are commonly supported by most 3D printers. Make sure you don’t use non-standard formatting or NTFS.

VERIFYING GCODE START AND END SCRIPTS: Take a look at the “start gcode” and “end script” scripts in your configuration file. There may be issues or errors within these scripts that affect the parsing of the gcode file.

How to name the .gcode

Naming your .gcode files and other working files correctly is an important aspect of avoiding any potential inconveniences during the 3D printing process. Here are some important rules to follow in order to name files correctly:

  • AVOID SPECIAL CHARACTERS: Avoid using special characters such as commas, semicolons, colons, exclamation marks, quotation marks, euros, dollars, percentages, and other special symbols. Use only standard alphanumeric characters.
  • AVOID GAPS AND INDENTATIONS: Avoid using spaces (space bar) or indentations (tab key) in file names. Instead, use the underscore (_) or an underscore to separate words if necessary.
  • SHORT NAMES: Preferably, use short names, ideally under 13 characters. Reduce the length of the name by encoding only the essential information.

An example of a file name created by following these rules might be:

“prt1A_ZENX_04_PLA.gcode”

This name reads as “1A (prt1A) printing part printed with Zen X extruder (ZENX) with 0.4mm nozzle (04) using PLA (PLA) material”. This name contains all the necessary information without using special characters or spaces that could cause problems when printing.

Some examples of filenames that do NOT follow these rules are:

  • “lidPLA150%” (contains a special character “%”).
  • “prova_ugello0.4_layer0.15mm” (contains dots, which should be avoided).
  • “part above PLA lid – x fair” (it is too long and contains a lot of spaces).

What is the knob for?

The machines of the Industrial series are equipped with a TFT touch screen for the interface and control of the machine. They also feature a knob as an additional control and navigation tool to simplify interaction with the printer interface, allowing users to adjust values and quickly exit menus or messages without having to touch the touch screen.

  • ADJUSTMENT: The knob wheel can be used to adjust the values shown on the TFT touch screen. By turning the knob clockwise or counterclockwise, you can increase or decrease the values displayed in various commands or settings. This feature is useful for making precise changes to printer parameters or other settings.
  • ESC (Exit): While navigating the printer interface or when overlay messages appear, you can press the knob to exit sub-menus or close messages. This works similarly to a computer’s “ESC” key and allows you to return to the main menu or undo actions in progress without interrupting operations such as printing or calibrating the printer.

How to print supports with the right extruder

Dual extruder printing is an advanced solution that allows you to achieve diverse and complex results in a single print session. To ensure that this process is carried out correctly, it is crucial to follow a series of precise steps.

Below, we provide a general guide for using the dual extruder for media creation:

PROFILE IMPORT:

  • Import the double extruder profile corresponding to your needs from our download page.

MEDIA CONFIGURATION:

  • In the “EDIT PROCESS” section, select “MEDIA”.
    • enable supports and select “RIGHT EXTRUDER” as the extruder for the supports.

PARAMETER SETTINGS:

  • Configure all the necessary parameters according to your specifications.
    • Pay special attention to print temperatures that match those of the material to be used

CHECKING THE ACTIVE EXTRUDER:

  • To monitor which extruder is taking care of a specific part of the print, go to the “PREPARE TO PRINT” screen.
    • Find the drop-down menu on the left labeled “ACTIVE TOOLHEAD.”
    • As highlighted in the image below, this menu indicates which of the two extruders is currently active for the desired print zone.

Changing WASP ZEN Extruder Cartridge

Change Anti Ooze Shield

Here is a step-by-step procedure on how to replace the Anti Ooze Shield in the WASP ZEN Extruder and WASP ZEN X Extruder

STEP 1: MAKE SURE THE EXTRUDER IS COOL

Make sure the extruder is cooled and has reached a touch-safe temperature. This is important to avoid scalding during the replacement process. Usually, wait for the extruder to come to room temperature.

STEP 2: INSTALL THE NEW ANTI OOZE SHIELD

Watch the video tutorial for a detailed visual guide on removing the Anti Ooze Shield. Carefully follow the instructions provided in the video.

Change Core

Replacing extruders in multicore printers, such as Spitfire, Zen, and Flex extruders, may vary slightly from one model to another, but here’s a general procedure for changing extruders:

STEP 1: TURN OFF THE PRINTER

Before starting any maintenance, make sure your multicore printer is completely turned off and disconnected from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.

STEP 2: DISCONNECT THE RJ CONNECTORS AND THREAD PULLER

  • Disconnect all RJ connectors from the extruder and wire puller. These connectors are responsible for electrical communication between the extruder and the control system.
  • Also disconnect the wire puller, which can be connected to the extruder or the power system.

STEP 3: UNSCREW THE SCREWS IN THE METAL JOINTS OF THE HANDLING ARMS

  • Using a 4 mm hex wrench, unscrew the six screws that secure the metal joints of the handling arms to the extruder.
  • Once the screws are fully loosened, you can pull out the handling arms and keep them resting along the rails.

STEP 4: REMOVE THE SILICONE RUBBER BANDS

  • Remove the three silicone rubber bands from the loops on the handling trolleys.
  • NOTE: This part may not be required for the Flex Extruder.

STEP 5: PLACE THE NEW EXTRUDER

  • Store any leftover wiring or take the necessary wiring, depending on your needs, in the compartment located on the middle level inside the printer.
  • Place the new extruder in the appropriate area.

STEP 6: INSERT THE SILICONE RUBBER BANDS AND SECURE THE JOINTS

  • Insert the silicone elastic bands into the handling trolleys via the dedicated loops if necessary.
  • Insert the joints of the handling arms into the seats of the extruder plate.
  • Retighten the six screws with the 4 mm hex wrench to lock the joints to the extruder plate.

STEP 7: CONNECT THE RJ CONNECTORS AND PROCEED WITH SELF-CALIBRATION

  • Connect the RJ harnesses of the extruder and wire puller according to the corresponding colors.
  • Once the replacement of the extruders is complete, proceed to self-calibrate the printer to ensure that everything is set up correctly for future prints.

Remember that the specific procedure may vary slightly based on the model of your multicore printer and the type of extruder used. Be sure to also consult your printer’s specific manual for further details and instructions.

Extruder cleaning

OPERATION A

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Load the extruder with filament as usual.
  • Turn the thread puller knob counterclockwise to start extrusion and clockwise to retract the filament. Alternate these motions, emphasizing extrusion, until you see clean filament coming out of the nozzle.

OPERATION B

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • If the wire struggles to be extruded, there may be a small particle or blockage in the nozzle. Use a fine needle to gently remove these particles from the nozzle.

OPERATION C

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Press down on the quick coupling ring located at the top of the extruder.
  • Slide the connecting tube between the extruder and the thread puller upwards.
  • Insert the PLA filament directly from the top into the hole of the extruder and manually push it down until the extrusion begins.

OPERATION D

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Press down on the quick coupling ring located at the top of the extruder.
  • Slide the connecting tube between the extruder and the thread puller upwards.
  • Insert a steel wire with a diameter of 2 mm inside the steel barrel of the extruder.

Push the steel wire down until you remove any blockages or material residue that may be clogging the steel barrel.

The plastic on my new SPITFIRE Extruder looks worn

The plastic used for the outer shell of SPITFIRE extruders is designed to be highly resistant to high temperatures and wear, thanks to the use of a technopolymer filled with a significant amount of fiberglass (50%). This gives the material remarkable durability and resistance to high temperatures, allowing the extruders to work for long periods without melting or deformation, even during repeated assembly and disassembly on the machine.

However, this special composition of the plastic can affect the external appearance of the extruder. The matte, uneven finish, with some lighter areas, is the result of the varying density of the fiberglass on the surface of the material. This is a normal appearance and does not affect the functionality or performance of the extruder.

In short, even though the outer plastic of the SPITFIRE extruder may look worn or have an uneven finish, it is designed this way to ensure long life and resistance to high temperatures, which is essential for 3D printing applications.

WASP ZEN X Extruder – nozzle cleaning

Nozzle change is only recommended in the following cases:

  • The print appears inconsistent due to a clog.
  • It is necessary to change the diameter of the nozzle.

PREPARING FOR REPLACEMENT:

  • Turn on the printer.

REMOVING THE EXISTING NOZZLE:

  • Bring the extruder to the previously used temperature and wait a few seconds.
  • Perform Filament Removal
  • Remove the Ooze shield protector
  • Using the wrench provided, unscrew and remove the nozzle carefully, being careful of hot surfaces.

NOZZLE REPLACEMENT:

  • Screw the new nozzle into its position.
  • Reposition the Ooze shield protector

FILAMENT LOADING:

  • Perform Filament Loading

POST-REPLACEMENT:

  • After replacing the nozzle, you need to perform Self-Calibration

WASP ZEN X Extruder – ZEN X Block replacement

PREPARING FOR REMOVAL:

  • Make sure the machine is turned on.
  • Use the “Autohome” command from the PRINT > AUTOHOME menu.
  • Perform Filament Removal
  • Turn off the machine.

REMOVING THE ZEN X BLOCK:

  • Remove the Velcro tape.
  • Remove the PTFE tubing by pushing down on the crowns and pulling up on the tubing.
  • Unplug the connector
  • Remove the OOZE SHIELD
  • Unscrew and remove the two central-external fixing screws, keeping the extruder lock firmly locked.
  • Remove the extruder block from the extruder casing.

CAUTION: The ZEN X Block must be replaced from under the extruder and may be hot. Therefore, caution is advised.

REPLACING THE ZEN X BLOCK:

  • Insert the new ZEN X BLOCK from under the extruder
  • Tighten the two central-external fixing screws while keeping the extruder lock firmly locked.
  • Put the OOZE SHIELD back on
  • Plug in the connector, making sure it’s properly inserted
  • Insert the two PTFE tubes
  • Put the Velcro tape back in the correct starting position and put the plastic ties back in place properly

NOTE: Self-calibration must be performed before launching a new print

Replacing the thread puller

Here is a step-by-step procedure for replacing the thread puller on your 3D printer, following the video tutorial provided:

STEP 1: TURN OFF THE PRINTER

  • Before starting any maintenance, make sure your 3D printer is completely turned off and disconnected from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.

STEP 2: PULL OUT THE NYLON TUBE

  • Press down on the quick-release ring located on top of the extruder.

STEP 3: UNPLUG THE 8-PIN CONNECTOR

  • Detach the 8-pin connector located on the wiring harness between the thread puller and the top of the printer.

STEP 4: CUT THE CABLE TIES

  • Using scissors or a wire cutter, cut the plastic cable ties that hold the thread puller cables in place.

STEP 5: REPLACE THE 3 RUBBER BANDS

  • Remove the 3 green/clear rubber bands from the old thread puller.
  • Replace the old thread puller with the new one.
  • Insert the green/transparent rubber bands into the three pins located at the top of the new thread puller.

STEP 6: INSERT THE NYLON TUBE

  • Insert the nylon tube with a diameter of 6 mm into the quick coupling located above the extruder.

STEP 7: RECONNECT THE 8-PIN CONNECTOR

  • Reconnect the 8-pin connector to the wiring harness between the thread puller and the top of the printer.

STEP 8: REPLACE THE CABLE TIES AND CABLES

  • Reposition the plastic ties and cables as they were before maintenance.

The thread puller jerks or does not turn

If your 3D printer’s thread puller jerks or doesn’t spin properly, follow these steps to fix the problem:

STEP 1: CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED

  • If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the molten filament may have difficulty flowing properly, causing a blockage in the thread puller’s feeding system. Perform a manual leveling of the print bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust residue that may hinder proper operation.

STEP 2: CHECK THE PRINT SETTINGS

  • LAYER HEIGHT: Make sure the layer height is set correctly. If it is too high, the material may have difficulty being extruded. The maximum allowable height is half the diameter of the nozzle used for printing.
  • TEMPERATURE: Check that the temperature is set correctly for the material you are printing. If it is too low, the filament may have difficulty being extruded.
  • PRINT SPEED: Check the print speed and make sure it is within the recommended parameters. If the print is too fast, it may cause problems for the thread puller to extrude the material properly.

NOTE: It is advisable to always start with the basic print profiles available in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website, as these profiles are optimized for the specific material and printer.

STEP 3: CHECK EXTRUDER CLEANLINESS

  • Make sure that the nozzle is well cleaned and that the material is extruded evenly. If necessary, clean the extruder (see chapter “Extruder cleaning”)

STEP 4: CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER

  • Make sure the thread puller’s power cord is properly connected to the printer. In case it is not connected, connect the cable while the printer is turned off.
  • Turn on the printer and send an autohome. Check that the thread taker control is active. To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Prepare > Movement > 1mm > Extruder.
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller does not idle but is well connected to the motor shaft. To do this, press and hold the thread puller trigger while turning the black knob. Then, screw in the M3 grub screw until it matches the flat surface of the motor shaft, making sure the toothed part is aligned with the filament passage.
  • Check if the thread puller motor fan is running. If it is not active, there may be a problem with the fan. If this is the case, it is advisable to contact technical support for a diagnosis and possible replacement of the fan.

The double-pull thread puller jerks or does not turn

If your 3D printer’s thread puller jerks or doesn’t spin properly, follow these steps to fix the problem:

STEP 1: CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED

  • If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the molten filament may have difficulty flowing properly, causing a blockage in the thread puller’s feeding system. Perform a manual leveling of the print bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust residue that may hinder proper operation.

STEP 2: CHECK THE PRINT SETTINGS

  • LAYER HEIGHT: Make sure the layer height is set correctly. If it is too high, the material may have difficulty being extruded. The maximum allowable height is half the diameter of the nozzle used for printing.
  • TEMPERATURE: Check that the temperature is set correctly for the material you are printing. If it is too low, the filament may have difficulty being extruded.
  • PRINT SPEED: Check the print speed and make sure it is within the recommended parameters. If the print is too fast, it may cause problems for the thread puller to extrude the material properly.

NOTE: It is advisable to always start with the basic print profiles available in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website, as these profiles are optimized for the specific material and printer.

STEP 3: CHECK EXTRUDER CLEANLINESS

  • Make sure that the nozzle is well cleaned and that the material is extruded evenly. If necessary, clean the extruder (see chapter “Extruder cleaning”)

The extruder goes down at the end of the print

The situation where the extruder goes down at the end of the print can be problematic and cause damage to the printed part. Here’s how to deal with this situation:

STEP 1: DISABLE THE “M84” COMMAND

  • Log in to your slicing software (e.g., Cura, PrusaSlicer, Simplify3D) and open the print profile you are using.
  • Look for the “ending scripts” section within the print profile settings. This section contains the commands that are automatically executed at the end of each print.
  • Find the “M84” command within the “ending scripts” section and disable it by adding a semicolon (;) before the command, as shown in the example: “; M84″.
  • Saves changes to the print profile.

Please note: After about 10 minutes, even if the “M84” command has been disabled, the motors will still deactivate automatically.

Error MINTEMP / MAXTEMP

The “MINTEMP” or “MAXTEMP” error on a 3D printer is associated with extruder temperature issues. Here’s what you can do to fix this:

STEP 1: CHECK THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • Check that the extruder’s power RJ45 connector is properly connected to the extruder. Make sure it is well inserted and that there are no loose joints or faulty connections.

STEP 2: RESTART THE PRINTER

  • After checking and, if necessary, replacing the RJ45 connector, restart the printer. This will allow the system to perform a new control on the extruder temperature.

STEP 3: CHECK THE TEMPERATURE OF THE EXTRUDER

  • When heating the extruder, check that the temperature gradually increases and reaches the desired value without error. If you notice that the temperature is not reached or fluctuates significantly, there may be a problem with the extruder’s temperature sensor or heater.

STEP 4: CONTACT TECHNICAL SUPPORT

  • If, despite the attempts described above, the error persists, it is recommended that you contact Technical Support as you need a more thorough diagnosis to determine the specific cause and resolve the issue.

The surface of the workpiece is spongy

A spongy print surface can be the result of several problems in your 3D printer or printing process. Here are a number of things you can do to resolve this issue:

VERIFY THE G.CODE FILE:

  • Make sure that the Gcode file you generated by the slicing software is correct and error-free. Check that there are no modeling defects in the STL file, such as open edges or non-manifold surfaces, that could cause problems when printing.

VERIFY THE SLICING PARAMETERS:

  • Check that the parameters in the slicing software are correct. Make sure the nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-step per mm are set correctly according to the specifications of your printer and the material used.

CHECK THE EXTRUDER:

  • Check that the extruder’s power RJ45 connector is properly connected to the extruder.
  • Check that the hoses connecting the thread puller and extruder are well connected and have no clogging or dirt inside them.
  • Make sure the filament has been loaded correctly and has made it all the way to the melting zone inside the nozzle.
  • Check that the extruder’s cooling fan is working properly.

CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED:

  • If the nozzle is too close to the print bed, the molten filament may have difficulty coming out, causing a blockage in the thread puller and motor gear. Perform a manual leveling of the build bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust or debris that may be causing tension during printing.

CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER:

  • Make sure the wire puller’s power cord is securely connected to the printer’s motherboard. If necessary, connect the cable while the printer is turned off.
  • Check that the thread taker control is active in the printer menu: Menu > Prepare > Movement > 1mm > Extruder.
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller is well connected to the motor shaft and that it is not idling. You can do this by pressing and holding the thread puller pliers, leaving the system unlocked, and turning the black knob. Then screw the M3 grub screw onto the flat surface of the motor shaft, making sure the toothed part is aligned with the filament passage.
  • Check that the thread puller motor fan is running. If that doesn’t work, it’s a good idea to contact technical support.

Printing is staggered

If your print is offset, it may be due to lost footsteps in motion or other problems in the printing process. Here’s how you can fix this:

CHECK THE SPEED AND ACCELERATION IN THE GCODE:

  • Check the print speed in the Gcode file. Speeds that are too high can cause the belts to slip around the pulleys and lose steps. Make sure the print speed is set appropriately for your printer and the material used.
  • It also verifies the accelerations in the movements. Accelerations of more than 6000 mm/s² may cause belt slippage. Check that the acceleration settings are appropriate for your printer. Keep in mind that these figures may vary depending on the model of your printer.

CHECK THE EXTRUSION FLOW:

  • Controls the percentage of material flow set in the slicing software. A flow rate greater than 100% can cause excessive material build-up during printing, causing collisions between layers. Make sure the flow percentage is set correctly for the material you are using.

CHECK THE EXTRUDER NOZZLE:

  • Check that the extruder nozzle is properly attached. If the nozzle is unscrewed, it may cause bumps during printing. Make sure it is tightly screwed in and in the correct position.

The printer makes noise

The 3D printer can make noises during printing, and these noises can have several causes. Here are some things you need to do to identify and fix your noise problem:

COOLING FAN:

  • Check the cooling fan on the extruder. If it is set to maximum speed, it may be noisy. From the slicing software, adjust the fan speed according to your needs. A slower speed may reduce noise without compromising print quality.
  • Make sure the fan propellers are intact and that they are not dirty or clogged with print residue or dust. If this is the case, turn off the printer and very carefully clean any debris or dust from the propellers or fan body.

NOISE LEVEL OF THE HANDLING AXES:

  • Make sure that the noise is not coming from the cooling fan on the extruder. If so, follow the directions above.
  • Check the smoothness of the pads on the moving axes by sliding them slowly with constant movements from top to bottom and vice versa. If there is friction and abnormal noise, you may need to contact technical support for maintenance.
  • Check the correct smoothness of the belt return bearings, which are located at the bottom of the slide rails. If the bearings are worn or damaged, they may be the cause of the noise.
  • Check the teeth of the belts. If you notice any expansion between the teeth of the belt or pinching, it may cause noise during printing. If so, you should replace the belt.

LOSS OF MOTOR STEPS:

  • Check to see if the printer’s motors are overheating during printing. Excessive overheating can cause loss of steps. Make sure the motors are properly cooled and are not clogged with dust or debris.
  • Check that the pulleys are firmly fixed on the motor shafts. Pulleys slipping on the shaft can cause lost steps.
  • Make sure the motor mount is stable and doesn’t move during printing.

EXTRUDER SHOCKS:

  • Check the leveling of the print bed. Keep a distance of about 0.1 mm between the nozzle and the print bed (thickness of an 80g A4 sheet).
  • Check the size of the print file. If the file exceeds the maximum print volume size, it may hit the walls of the printer. Set the correct parameters in the slicing software. (Starting with F20_rev6, F21_rev3, and F30_rev4 firmware, there is a software limitation.)
  • Check to see if any move plug-ins are installed when printing. Sometimes, these plug-ins can cause shocks. Make sure that the sum of the part width and the value of the plug-in does not exceed the maximum printable diameter. (Starting with F20_rev6, F21_rev3, and F30_rev4 firmware, there is a software limitation.)
  • Check that the extruder nozzle is securely fastened and is not unscrewed.

Failure to extrude filament

Not extrusion of filament in a 3D printer can be caused by several issues. Here are some checks and solutions to address this issue:

GCODE VERIFICATION:

  • Make sure that the STL file used to generate the Gcode has no modeling defects, such as non-solid surfaces or geometry issues. Use 3D modeling software such as Blender or MeshLab to correct any defects in the model.

VERIFICATION OF SLICING PARAMETERS:

  • Control parameters in the slicing software, such as nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-steps per millimeter. Make sure they are configured correctly for your extruder and the type of filament you are using.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE EXTRUDER:

  • Make sure the extruder power cord is securely connected to the extruder. If it is not properly connected, do so with the printer turned off.
  • Check that the hoses connecting the thread puller to the extruder are well connected and free of clogging or dirt. You can remove the hose and inspect it for any blockages or obstructions.
  • Make sure the filament is properly fed into the melting zone inside the nozzle. Check to see if the filament is stuck or caught inside the extruder.

CHECKING THE LEVELING OF THE BUILD BED:

  • Controls the leveling of the print bed. If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the filament may have difficulty coming out, causing the thread puller’s gear and motor to become blocked. Manually level the build bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust or debris.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER:

  • Make sure the power cord of the thread puller is securely connected. If it isn’t, connect the cable with the printer turned off.
  • Make sure the thread taker control is active in the printer’s menu (menu/prepare/movement/1mm/extruder).
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller is securely connected to the motor shaft. You can do this by pressing and holding the thread puller pliers and turning the knob. Make sure that the M3 grub screw is screwed onto the flat surface of the motor shaft, keeping the toothed part centered with the filament passage.
  • Check that the thread puller motor fan is working properly. If the fan is not running, you may need to contact technical support for repair or replacement of the motor.

FILAMENT CONTROL:

  • Make sure the filament is of good quality and has no knots or imperfections.
  • Check that the filament has not expired, as the old filament may be more susceptible to clogging.
  • Check the humidity of the print material, particularly if it is moisture-sensitive filaments. Absorbed moisture can adversely affect print quality, causing problems such as burrs, blemishes, and changes in material properties.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL:

  • Check that the nozzle temperature is set correctly for the type of filament you are using. Too low a temperature can cause blockages.

What should i do if the material tends to wrinkle in the sharp parts?

Material wrinkling on sharp parts during 3D printing is a common problem caused by material shrinkage and built-up stresses.


FACTORS INFLUENCING MATERIAL SHRINKAGE:

  • CHOOSING THE RIGHT MATERIAL: Consider whether it is essential to use the current material for your print. Sometimes, there are versions of materials with less shrinkage. Choosing a material with different characteristics might solve the problem of ripple.
  • SHRINKAGE MANAGEMENT: Ripple is directly related to shrinkage that occurs during material cooling. You can consider using materials with a low shrinkage rate or adjust your print settings to minimize this effect.
  • MODEL ORIENTATION: Changes the orientation of the model in the printout. Examining the arrangement of objects in the print can help reduce wrinkling. Experiment with different angles and orientations to find the best solution.

To address this issue, you can take several steps depending on the goals of your print:

IF YOU ARE PRINTING A PART WITH MECHANICAL PRECISION:

  • LOWER THE LAYER HEIGHT: Reduce the layer height when printing. This can improve accuracy and reduce the rippled effect on sharp parts.
  • INCREASE COOLING FANS: Increase the speed or intensity of the cooling fans on your 3D printer. This helps to cool the material more quickly and reduce tensions.
  • REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY: Reduce the temperature of the extruder slightly. This can help reduce material shrinkage.
  • REDUCE SPEED: Decrease the print speed. Printing more slowly can allow the material to settle more evenly and reduce tensions.

IF YOU ARE PRINTING FOR AESTHETIC APPEARANCE:

  • INCREASE FLOW: Increases the flow of material during printing. This can help to better fill in the sharp parts and reduce the frizzy effect.

IF THE PROBLEM PERSISTS:

  • LOWER THE LAYER HEIGHT: If the problem continues, further consider lowering the layer height to achieve greater accuracy.
  • INCREASE IN COOLING FANS: Keep experimenting with cooling fans. Increased cooling can often improve the aesthetic appeal of printed parts.
  • REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY: If material shrinkage is still an issue, you can further reduce the temperature of the extruder.
  • REDUCE SPEED: Reduce the print speed to allow for greater accuracy in sharp parts.

By experimenting with these settings and taking appropriate measures, you can improve the quality of your printed parts and reduce wrinkling on sharp parts. The best solution will depend on your specific printing needs and the material used.

The workpiece does not stick to the print bed

If the printed part does not adhere properly to the print bed, there are several measures you can take to improve adhesion:

LEVELING THE BUILD BED: Make sure the build bed is properly leveled. Follow the recommended leveling procedure for your 3D printer to ensure that the first layer is even and well-fitting to the bed.

PREPARING THE PRINT SURFACE: You can apply a layer of spray glue or stick glue to create an adhesive surface on the print bed. Be sure to apply a thin, even layer. This can help improve the adhesion of the first layer of your model.

TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT: Check that the temperature of the nozzle and heatbed is set correctly according to the material you are using. Consult the filament manufacturer’s technical specifications for recommended temperatures. Often, slightly increasing the temperature of the build bed can improve adhesion.

USING ADHESIVE SUBSTRATES: Some people prefer to use adhesive substrates such as Kapton tape, blue painter’s tape, or BuildTak surfaces. These substrates can greatly improve the adhesion of the material to the build bed.

USING A RAFT OR BRIM: If the problem persists, you can consider using a “raft” or “brim.” These are additional structures that are printed underneath your model and provide a larger surface area for adhesion to the build bed.

CLEANING THE PRINT BED: Make sure the build bed is clean and free of any previous filament residue or other impurities. You can clean the build bed with isopropyl alcohol or soap and water.

EXPERIMENT WITH SLICING SETTINGS: You can also experiment with your software’s slicing settings. For example, you can increase the “first layer extrusion width” or adjust the height of the first layer to improve adhesion.

Try these solutions one at a time until you can achieve the desired adhesion for your molded parts. Sometimes, a bit of experimentation is needed to find the ideal settings for your environment and print material.

The machine doesn’t print my part well

3D printing can be a complex process, and achieving perfect results requires attention to various details. Here are some steps you can follow to deal with this situation:

CHECK YOUR SLICER SETTINGS: Make sure you are using the slicer settings that are in accordance with your machine. You can find our official press profiles on our website. These profiles have been optimized to work best with our printers.

CHECK MODEL GEOMETRY: Check that your 3D  model has geometry that is suitable for 3D printing. It is important that the model is well-designed, with no gaps, holes in the surface of the model, or geometric errors that could cause problems when printing.

Please note that WASP cannot guarantee positive results for projects that are not compatible with printing technology.

CLEANING THE EXTRUDER: A clean extruder is essential for proper printing. Check that the extruder is free of debris or jammed filaments. Periodic cleaning of the extruder can help avoid extrusion problems.

USE THE PROPER PRINTING MATERIAL: Make sure you are using the right printing material for your needs. Each material has its own specific characteristics and requirements, so choose the material that best suits your project and the printer you use.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

The machine does not print well a material that is not supported by WASP

We understand the challenges that can arise during 3D printing, especially when using complex materials or geometries. However, it is important to note that Delta WASP printers have been designed and tested to work with materials that we certify. This choice was made to ensure the quality and reliability of our products.

In view of this, we cannot provide specific print profiles or detailed assistance for the use of materials that are not certified by WASP. In addition, we do not take responsibility for non-conforming results on finished parts or for the behavior of printers with such materials.

However, that doesn’t mean we’re disinterested in your results. To help you get the most out of your printer and the material you’re using, here are some steps you can follow:

USE BASIC PROFILES: Start with the basic print profiles we provide. These can be easily found in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website. You can select the extruder or printer model you have and make adjustments to suit your specific needs.

PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Some advanced materials require some printing experience, especially when it comes to complex geometries. Experiments and practice can help you better understand how to achieve optimal results.

MATERIAL GUIDES: Check out our material guides, if available. These guides contain useful information on how to deal with specific materials and solve common problems.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

We are here to support you in your 3D printing experience and to answer your questions. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support team.

The machine does not print this part well with this material

If you’re having trouble printing a part with a certain material, it’s important to perform a series of checks and considerations to achieve better printing results. Here are some steps to follow:

SUITABLE MATERIAL: Check that the material you are using is suitable for your application. Different materials have different properties, such as printing temperature, strength, and flexibility. Make sure you’re using a material that’s compatible with your project.

Some materials can absorb moisture or deteriorate over time, which can affect print quality. Check that the material is not degraded.

CHECK MODEL GEOMETRY: Check that your 3D  model has geometry that is suitable for 3D printing. It is important that the model is well-designed, with no gaps, holes in the surface of the model, or geometric errors that could cause problems when printing.

Please note that WASP cannot guarantee positive results for projects that are not compatible with printing technology.

CHECK YOUR SLICER SETTINGS: Make sure you are using the slicer settings that are in accordance with your machine. You can find our official press profiles on our website. These profiles have been optimized to work best with our printers.

CLEAN EXTRUDER: Check that the printer extruder is clean and free of material residue or obstructions. Clean the nozzle if necessary and make sure the filament flows freely.

PROPER MECHANICAL OPERATION: Check that your printer is in good mechanical condition. Check that all belts are properly tightened, that there are no damaged components, and that the axles are moving smoothly.

USE BASIC PROFILES: Start with the basic print profiles we provide. These can be easily found in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website. You can select the extruder or printer model you have and make adjustments to suit your specific needs.

PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Some advanced materials require some printing experience, especially when it comes to complex geometries. Experiments and practice can help you better understand how to achieve optimal results.

MATERIAL GUIDES: Check out our material guides, if available. These guides contain useful information on how to deal with specific materials and solve common problems.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

We are here to support you in your 3D printing experience and to answer your questions. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support team.

What is the right setting to work with my part?

We understand that achieving optimal results when 3D printing can be a challenge, especially when it comes to specific parts or particular materials. However, it is important to note that WASP Technical Support does not provide services for the development of optimized print profiles for individual products.

However, we want to offer solutions to help you achieve your printing goals. Here are some options available to you:

OPTIMIZATION PATH: You can consider the option of a customized optimization path with WASP’s experts. This can be accomplished in the form of a tailor-made course or a specific printing service. Along the way, you’ll work closely with our experts to develop the ideal settings for your specific part or material.

BASIC RESOURCES: To get started, you can check out the  basic print profiles we provide for our printers. These profiles can serve as a starting point and can be customized to suit your needs.

PERSONAL EXPERIMENTS: The printing experience is a continuous learning process. Experiment with the settings and test to see which ones work best for your specific case.

GENERAL SUPPORT: Our technical support team is available to answer your general questions about 3D printing and our printers. While we can’t develop specific profiles, we can offer advice on how to deal with certain issues or challenges.

We want you to get the most out of your 3D printing experience, and we’re here to provide the support you need. If you would like more information about optimization paths or have specific questions, we encourage you to contact our team to discuss your options.

The machine does not print well with the settings stated in the data sheet (e.g. speed)

It is important to emphasize that the specifications stated in the technical data sheet of our machine represent limit values and not absolute guarantees for every type of printing or processing. These values are provided for reference and may vary based on various factors, including the material used, the complexity of the part geometry, and other printing parameters.

For example, high-speed printing may only be possible with certain materials and parts that have relatively simple geometries. Optimizing print profiles for production speed is a complex process that requires experience and knowledge.

If you’re interested in learning how to optimize a print profile for production speed or have questions about settings specific to your application, we recommend that you consider taking our Advanced 3D Printing course. This course is designed to deepen your understanding of 3D printing and to hone your skills in managing print settings. You can find more details about the course and how to participate here.

We’re here to give you the support and resources you need to get the best results from your machine; So, don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions or need assistance specific to your application.

What’s the difference between Spitfire and Spitfire X Extruders?

The Spitfire X extruder represents the latest evolution in the Spitfire extruder line. Here are some technical details and important information about its compatibility:

GENERAL COMPATIBILITY: The Spitfire X extruder is available in two versions with different voltages: 12V and 24V. This voltage choice allows it to be used with various Delta WASP printers.

12V VERSIONS COMPATIBILITY: The 12V version of the Spitfire X extruder (the new version of the Spitfire Black extruder) is compatible with the following Delta WASP printers:

  • Delta WASP 2040
  • Delta WASP 2040 Turbo
  • Delta WASP 4070
  • Delta WASP 60100

24V VERSIONS COMPATIBILITY: The 24V version of the Spitfire X extruder (the new version of the Spitfire Red extruder) is compatible with the following Delta WASP printers:

  • Delta WASP 2040 PRO
  • Delta WASP 2040 T2
  • Delta WASP 4070 IND
  • Delta WASP 4070 IND 4.0
  • Delta WASP 2040 IND 4.0
  • Delta WASP 3MT IND

MAIN DIFFERENCE: The main innovation of the Spitfire X extruder compared to previous versions is its internal system. This system allows changing only the nozzle, which is made of hardened steel, rather than the entire cartridge. This simplifies the maintenance process and nozzle replacement, making the operation faster and more efficient.

NOTE: It’s important to note that the Spitfire X extruder does not support complete cartridge replacement. Therefore, it’s not possible to install complete cartridges on this extruder. Additionally, nozzles specifically designed for the Spitfire X extruder are not compatible with previous versions of Spitfire extruders.

Make sure to choose the correct version of the Spitfire X extruder based on your Delta WASP printer and keep these compatibility and nozzle replacement system details in mind when maintaining or upgrading your 3D printer.

SPITFIRE System – changing the cartridge

Here is a detailed procedure for changing the cartridge in the Spitfire System, applicable to both the Spitfire Red and Spitfire Black extruders (note that it is not compatible with the Spitfire X version):

STEP 1: PREPARATION

Before starting the cartridge replacement process, ensure that the extruder temperature is set to 200°C.  This temperature is important to facilitate cartridge removal.

STEP 2: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE CARTRIDGE

STEP 3: VERIFICATION AND CALIBRATION

After reaching the desired printing temperature, verify that the extruder functions correctly, and the new material is extruded without issues. Calibration is necessary to ensure precise printing and avoid collisions between the nozzle and the print bed.

SPITFIRE X System – change the nozzle

Here is a step-by-step procedure for changing the nozzle in the Spitfire X system:

STEP 1: TOOLS NEEDED

  • Make sure you have a 7mm hex wrench available, which will be used to unscrew the nozzle.

STEP 2: NOZZLE REPLACEMENT

  • Heat the extruder to 200°C.  This temperature is crucial to soften any material residue inside the nozzle and make it easier to remove.
  • Once the desired temperature is reached, use the 7mm hex wrench to unscrew the nozzle from the extruder. Do this carefully and counterclockwise.

CAUTION: When removing the nozzle, be careful not to force too much, as it may be tightened so as to prevent material leakage during printing.

  • Once you have unscrewed the nozzle, carefully remove it from the extruder.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE NEW NOZZLE

  • Get the new nozzle you want to install. Make sure it’s the correct size for your print project.
  • Place the new nozzle in the extruder. Make sure you insert it correctly and securely.
  • Use the 7mm hex wrench to screw the nozzle back in a clockwise direction. Make sure the nozzle is tight but without excessive force to avoid damage.

WARNING: When screwing the nozzle back on, make sure that it has reached the stop, i.e. that it is fully screwed and well seated in the extruder.

  • Once you’ve secured the new nozzle, check that it’s properly installed and tightened.

STEP 4: VERIFY

  • After changing the nozzle, check that the extruder is working properly and that the new nozzle is not leaking material during printing.

Change ZEN Extruder tool

Use slicing software that is not supported by the machine (Cura, Slic3r)

WASP technical support is unable to provide assistance with the configuration and optimization of profiles for slicing software other than the official one, which is Simplify3D.

From an open perspective, our technology is compatible with various slicing software such as Cura, Slic3r etc…. Here are some tips you can follow to set up these softwares:

CONFIGURE SOFTWARE: Download and install the desired slicing software on your computer. If possible, select your WASP printer as the configuration option. Alternatively, choose a generic configuration that approximates your printer’s specifications.

PRINTER SPECIFICATIONS: Gather the technical specifications of your WASP printer, such as nozzle diameter, maximum print size, and other key settings.

SETUP: Configure the slicing software according to your printer’s specifications and the manufacturer’s recommendations. This may take time and experimentation to achieve optimal results.

PRINT TESTS: Run print tests to make sure everything is working as expected. Carefully check the first layer, adhesion to the print bed, and overall print quality.

EXPERIMENTATION AND OPTIMIZATION: You may need to experiment with different settings in your slicing software for the best results. Edit one variable at a time and take note of changes in print quality.

Keep in mind that using unofficially supported slicing software can pose challenges and require experimentation for optimal results. In addition, WASP Technical Support will not be able to provide specific assistance for issues related to the use of unofficial slicing software.

Use machine-supported slicing software (SIMPLIFY3D)

WASP machines support Simplify3D as slicing software, and it is recommended, especially for those who are new to the machine, to use this slicer. Here’s how you can use it:

DOWNLOAD & INSTALLATION: First of all, make sure you have downloaded and installed Simplify3D on your computer. You can find the software on the developer’s website at https://www.simplify3d.com/

UPLOADING YOUR 3D MODEL: Launch Simplify3D and upload your 3D model to the workspace. You can do this by dragging the template file directly into the software window.

SETTING UP THE PRINT JOB: You can now start setting up the print job. This includes setting the type of material you’re using, nozzle temperature, print speed, and other specific settings. You can also use the specific profiles developed by WASP for each extruder and material, which you can find on the https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ website.

GCODE GENERATION: Once the print job is configured, click “Prepare to Print” to generate the Gcode file. This file will contain all the necessary instructions for your 3D printer to create the desired part.

PRINT: Finally, upload the Gcode file to your WASP printer and start the printing process. Be sure to follow the printer’s instructions carefully when loading and setting up.

Remember that Simplify3D also offers FAQs, video tutorials, and helpful guides on their https://www.simplify3d.com/ website, which can be very helpful in getting the most out of the software’s potential.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

How can i create an object similar to one seen on your website or communication?

The objects you see on our website and in our communications are often produced by third parties or made using specific 3D modeling and printing technologies. Technology and production techniques can vary greatly based on the specific applications and artists involved.

To make objects similar to the ones you’ve seen, you’ll want to gain skills  in 3D modeling and 3D printing. You can start by taking specialized training courses such as our Advanced 3D Printing Course, which offers in-depth training in advanced modeling, printing, and techniques.

Additionally, it’s important to be creative and experiment with your ideas to develop unique and personalized pieces. You can use 3D modeling software like Blender, Fusion 360, or Tinkercad to create your models and then use a 3D printer to materialize your creations.

What is the right setting to work with my extruder and material?

To get the best printing results with your extruder and material, we recommend that you use the optimized print profiles that we make available in the download section of our website. Be sure to select the correct profile for your specific extruder, verifying that the photo on the site matches the model you intend to print on.

You can find these print profiles here. By using our optimized profiles, you’ll have a solid foundation to start successfully printing your favorite material and achieve high-quality results.

Keep in mind that choosing the right setting can vary depending on a number of factors, including the type of material, the complexity of the part’s geometry, and your specific printing needs. Therefore, we recommend that you use our profiles as a starting point and make any adjustments or customizations according to your specific needs.

If you have any further questions or need assistance finding the right setting for your application, please do not hesitate to contact us. We’re here to help you get the best results with your printer and material.

The machine does not print a WASP-supported material well

WASP machines are designed to offer optimal performance with WASP certified materials. This choice was made to ensure the quality and reliability of the product for customers. If you’re having trouble printing a WASP-supported material, there are a few considerations to keep in mind:

STANDARD PROFILES: Make sure you are using the correct standard profile for the material you are using. The profiles are available in the download section of the WASP website and are specific to each extruder.

COMPLEX GEOMETRIES: Advanced materials may require some printing experience, especially when dealing with complex geometries. Make sure your 3D model and print settings are suitable for the specific material you’re using.

MATERIAL GUIDES: WASP provides material guides that provide detailed information on supported materials and best practices for printing. You can check out these guides to get more information about the material you’re using.

SPECIFIC COURSES: WASP also offers specific courses on printing advanced materials. These courses are designed to help you develop advanced skills in printing technical materials.

Remember that even if a material is supported by the machine, you may need to make some adaptations or gain experience in printing it, especially if it is advanced materials.

The machine only gives me problems with a certain G.code

If you’re having trouble with a specific .gcode file, there are a few guidelines to follow to ensure that the file is of good quality and doesn’t cause any problems for your machine. Here are some tips:

NO SPACE IN THE NAME: Make sure that the .gcode file name does not contain any spaces or special characters. Keep it simple and avoid spaces or symbols.

START WITH A STANDARD PROFILE: Always start with a standard print profile that matches your machine and material settings. Change only the settings you need. You can use the specific profiles developed by WASP for each extruder and material, which you can find on the https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ website.

BEWARE OF SCRIPTS: Some slicers allow the use of custom scripts or commands in the .gcode file. Make sure the scripts are correct and don’t cause any running issues.

DON’T CHANGE THE SETTINGS: Don’t  randomly change the settings in the .gcode file if you don’t fully understand the effect. This may cause printing problems.

REMOVE THE FLASH DRIVE/SD PROPERLY: When removing the USB stick or SD card from the computer, make sure to do so safely and avoid abruptly pulling out the storage media.

AVOID STRANGE COMMANDS: Check that the .gcode file does not contain any strange or unusual commands that could cause abnormal behavior in your printer.

DO NOT USE . GCODES CREATED FOR OTHER MACHINES OR EXTRUDERS: .GCODE files are specific to your machine and extruder. Do not use .gcode files created for other machines or configurations.

If you’ve followed these guidelines and you’re still having issues with your .gcode file, it may be helpful to contact a WASP operator for further support.

The machine does not print like another printer of another model that i already use.

FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) and LDM (Liquid Deposition Modeling) 3D printers are designed with specific mechanics and extrusion systems that can greatly influence the printing process and final results. It is important to keep in mind that each 3D printer has its own inherent characteristics, benefits, and limitations, which may differ from one model to another.

When comparing two different printers, it’s crucial to consider the following:

PRINT PROFILE SETUP: Each 3D printer requires a specific print profile that determines temperature, speed, layer height, and other critical variables settings for optimal results. Make sure that you have correctly configured the print profile for your printer according to the material and the type of object you want to print.

PRINTER SIZE: The size of the  printer affects the type and size of the objects you can print. Make sure that the printer is suitable for the size of your projects and that the settings are proportionate to the print bed.

TYPE OF MATERIALS: Different types of materials, such as PLA, ABS, PETG, etc., require specific settings to achieve high-quality printing results. Check that you are using the correct material for your printer and make sure that the settings are adapted to it.

MODEL GEOMETRY: The complexity and geometry of your model can affect the printing process. Verify that the model has been properly designed for 3D printing and that it does not contain any modeling errors.

MAINTENANCE: Make sure your printer is well-maintained and that all components are in good working order. Mechanical problems or the presence of material residue inside the extruder can adversely affect print quality.

USER EXPERIENCE: Learning how to use a new printer takes time and experience. Familiarize yourself with the operation of your printer, perform calibration tests, and gain experience in troubleshooting any issues that may arise during printing.

Continuous Printing

The “Continuous Printing” mode is a function that allows printing to resume immediately when the filament spool runs out. When the sensor detects the absence of wire, the processing switches to the second nozzle, which continues with the same settings and temperatures. Here are the requirements and considerations to be aware of:

REQUIREMENTS:

  • EXTRUDER: This function can only be activated with the WASP ZEN X Extruder.
  • NOZZLE CALIBRATION: Both nozzles should be well-calibrated to ensure a smooth transition between the two.
  • NO CLOGGING: Neither nozzle should be clogged to prevent interruptions during passage.
  • PROPER MATERIAL LOADING: Material must be properly loaded on both nozzles to ensure continuous printing.
  • END OF WIRE SENSOR: Make sure the end of wire sensor is not turned off in the advanced settings.

CONSIDERATIONS: The “Continuous Printing” option must be activated in the advanced settings to enable this mode.

Make sure you meet all of these requirements before using the “Continuous Printing” mode to ensure a seamless printing process.

Difference between DELTA WASP INDUSTRIAL and DELTA WASP INDUSTRIAL 4.0

Delta’s WASP Industrial line of printers was developed to meet the challenges of printing technical materials in an insulated chamber that would allow for better isolation of the printing environment. In 2019, this line was improved and renamed Delta WASP Industrial 4.0 to meet Italian government requirements related to Industry 4.0 and to offer additional advanced features. Here are the main differences between the two models:

TOUCH SCREEN DISPLAY: The Delta WASP Industrial 4.0 features a touch screen display that makes it easy to interact with the printer and navigate menus.

WI-FI CONNECTION: The Delta WASP Industrial 4.0 supports Wi-Fi connection, allowing you to control and manage the printer from mobile devices or remotely through a wireless network.

HOT CHAMBER HEATING: This version of the printer offers a hot chamber heating system that can reach temperatures up to 70°C.  This is useful for printing technical materials that require a temperature-controlled environment.

HOT AND COLD TECHNOLOGY: Hot and Cold technology refers to the printer’s ability to handle both thermoplastic and cold materials. This versatility allows a wide range of materials to be used.

ON-BOARD TUTORIALS: The Delta WASP Industrial 4.0 offers built-in tutorials that guide users through calibration and printing procedures, making it easy to use the printer.

CONTINUOUS PELLET FEEDING SYSTEM: This feature is currently only present on the Delta WASP 3MT Industrial 4.0. It is a continuous pellet feeding system, which allows for continuous printing without interruptions due to material loading.

Auto-calibration

Auto-calibration is an automatic process that calibrates the flatness of the print bed, simplifying the adhesion of the first print layer. Here’s how to activate and perform auto-calibration on your WASP 3D printer:

NOTE:  This procedure is compatible with the following WASP printer models: 2040 T2, 2040 PRO, 3MT IND, IND 4.0 Line, IND X Line.

CAUTION: Auto-calibration must be initiated when both the build bed and extruder are already heated to the desired print temperatures.

CLEANING THE NOZZLE AND BUILD BED: Make sure the nozzle and build bed are clean and free of plastic residue or other impurities.

CONTACT NOZZLE PLACEMENT: With the printer turned off, gently position the nozzle so that it is in contact with the print bed.

TURNING ON THE PRINTER:  Turn on the printer and wait for the message “AUTOCALIB ENABLED” to appear on the display. If the message does not appear, you may need to warm up the extruder and clean the nozzle or print bed better.

START AUTO-CALIBRATION: Start the auto-calibration procedure as follows:

For 2040 T2, 2040 PRO and 4070 IND models:

  • Go to the main menu and select “PREPARE,” then “AUTOCALIB.”

For the Industrial 4.0 Line and the Industrial X Line

  • Go to the “PRINT” menu and select “AUTOCALIB.”

WAITING FOR HEATING : After starting the self-calibration, wait a few minutes for the extruder to reach the necessary temperature.

PERFORMING AUTO-CALIBRATION: The auto-calibration procedure will be performed automatically by the printer and will last a few minutes.

IMPORTANT NOTE: auto-calibration is activated by an electrical contact between the nozzle and the print bed. Make sure the print bed is conductive if it is different from the one supplied. If not, you will need to use the manual leveling procedure.

Free Zeta System INDUSTRIAL LINE 4.0 and INDUSTRIAL X LINE

The Free Z System is an important feature in WASP printers that allows you to shoot a print from a specific height. This is especially useful if you want to change material or color during printing or in case of unexpected interruptions. Here’s how to use the Free Z System:

MEASURE THE HEIGHT OF THE PREVIOUS LAYER:

  • First, you’ll need to measure the Z value (the height) of the last printed layer. You can do this by following these steps:
  • Access the menu: PREPARE / FREE Z SYSTEM.
  • Using the command arrows, slowly move the nozzle closer until it touches the previous printed layer.
  • When the nozzle is in contact, confirm by clicking “GO FOR GCODE.”

G-CODE FILE SELECTION:

  • You will now need to select the G-code file that contains instructions for resuming printing from a specific height.

WAIT FOR THE FILE TO LOAD:

  • The printer will start loading the G-code file. The length of this process can vary depending on the size and complexity of the file. Be patient while the printer completes loading.

RESUMPTION OF PRINTING:

  • Once the G-code file has been successfully uploaded, the printer will start printing from the corresponding layer at the specified height. This allows you to easily handle material changes or interruptions without having to restart the entire print.

Note: Keep in mind that this can take several minutes, depending on the height of the workpiece.

How the Resurrection System works

The Resurrection System is a feature in WASP printers that allows you to resume printing from where you left off due to a power outage. Here’s how it works:

SAVING PRINT COORDINATES: When the printer detects a power failure or any other situation that requires the print to stop, it will save the precise print coordinates to the point where the interruption occurred. These coordinates are saved in a file named “RESURR” in the directory of the original print file.

SELECTING THE  RESURR FILE: To resume printing where you left off, you will need to select the “RESURR” file from the printer’s memory or SD card.

WAITING FOR RESTART:  Once the “RESURR” file is selected, the printer will begin the restart process. During this process, the nozzle will be brought to a temperature of 100°C to avoid abrupt detachment from the workpiece.

AUTOMATIC AXIS HANDLING: After reaching the desired temperature, the printer’s motion axes will be automatically returned to the “home” position.

RESUME PRINTING: Once the nozzle and hotbed temperature reaches the temperature specified in the original print file (.gcode), printing will resume from the exact location where it left off. This process avoids defects or discontinuities in printing.

IMPORTANT NOTE: During the Resurrection process, if the nozzle remains in contact with the molded part, do not send the motion axes to the “home” position. The Resurrection procedure begins with heating the nozzle to 100°C to prevent damage to the molded part.

Change WASP SPITFIRE Extruder

Here’s a step-by-step procedure on how to change the Wasp Spitfire extruder on your 3D printer:

STEP 1: TURN OFF THE PRINTER

  • Before starting any operation, make sure your 3D printer is turned off and disconnected from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.

STEP 2: UNPLUG THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • At the top of the extruder, locate the RJ45 connector and unplug it. This connector is used for electrical communication with the extruder.

STEP 3: REMOVE THE NYLON BOWDEN

  • At the top of the extruder, you will find a quick coupling for the nylon tube with a loop. Press down on the quick coupling ring and simultaneously pull up on the nylon tube.

STEP 4: UNSCREW THE SCREWS AND REMOVE THE EXTRUDER

  • Underneath the aluminum plate that supports the extruder, you’ll find two fixing screws. Using a 2.5mm Allen key, unscrew these two screws. Once removed, you can pull up to completely remove the extruder from the printer.

STEP 5: INSERT THE NEW EXTRUDER

  • Take the new extruder you want to install and place it in the same location from which you just removed the previous extruder.

STEP 6: TIGHTEN THE SCREWS

  • Under the aluminum plate, screw the two screws back in to securely secure the new extruder in place. Be sure to tighten the screws properly, but avoid applying excessive force so as not to damage the new extruder.

STEP 7: INSERT THE NYLON BOWDEN

  • Reconnect the 6 mm diameter nylon tubing into the extruder quick coupling. Make sure it’s securely inserted and locked in place.

STEP 8: RECONNECT THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • Reconnect the RJ45 connector that you disconnected earlier, making sure to pass it over the rubber bands.

STEP 9: TURN ON THE PRINTER AND CALIBRATE THE PRINT BED

  • Turn on the printer and proceed to calibrate the print bed. This will ensure that the new extruder setup is properly leveled and that printing can be done accurately.

Modify height (calibration)

The height (often called Z max) of the printer is the value that defines the distance between the nozzle and the print bed when it is in its zero position (home).
The height is part of the calibration values ​​of the machine and the right value is essential for good operation.

When the machine is turned on, in the monitoring screen it is possible to see among the values ​​shown that of the height saved in the machine (indicated as Z).

As the height value changes, the following scenarios may occur:

To manually change the height value, each printer is equipped with a dedicated command within the PREPARE menu, depending on the version it can be called:

  • Modify height;
  • Modification Z max (Set Z max).

The procedure for changing the Z max depends on the machine and firmware version.

  • Position the print bed and clean the nozzle;
  • Send the printer to zero position (autohome);
  • Use the command Prepare> Modify height (or Set Z max).

The screen allows you to choose a scale value at the top (between 10 mm, 1 mm, 0.1 mm) and consequently to go down by that value on the Z axis.

  1. With scale value 10, turn the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 20 mm from the printing surface;
  2. Click the knob once to select the scale value at 10mm;
  3. With scale value 1, rotate the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 2 mm from the printing surface;
  4. Click the knob once to select the scale value at 0.1 mm;
  5. With a scale value of 0.1, turn the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 1 mm from the printing surface;
  6. Click the knob twice to activate the “SAVE Z” item;
  7. Turn the knob to display “OK”;
  8. Click to confirm and save the new Z max;
  9. The machine will exit the command and will automatically go to the Home position.

If necessary, complete the calibration with the Prepare> Manual leveling command, adjusting the plane with uniform distance in all positions.

WASP ZEN Extruder calibration

The calibration of the ZEN extruder is based on the vernier principle, similar to that used in a common caliber. This process involves two overlapping grids with slightly different cell sizes, where each line represents one-tenth of a millimeter (0.1 mm). The position of the second extruder (T1) relative to the first (T0) will be determined by the coordinate in which the two grids precisely overlap.

HERE’S HOW TO CALIBRATE THE ZEN EXTRUDER:

  • Print the calibration file containing the overlapping grids.
  • Check which coordinate corresponds to a perfect alignment of the grids. For example, if the grids perfectly match the x=4 and y=3 coordinates (Figure 2), you will need to add 0.4 mm to the x coordinate and 0.3 mm to the y coordinate to get the correct calibration.
  • Record the found calibration values and add them (or subtract, if they are negative) to the existing values in your printer’s “Menu>Advanced>Motion>Extr Settings” menu.
  • After setting the new calibration values, relaunch the print file. You will notice that the coordinate will now correspond to x=0 and y=0 (figure 3), indicating a correct calibration.

Calibrating the ZEN extruder is an important step in ensuring that both printer extruders are aligned accurately. Follow these steps carefully and add the correct calibration values to get accurate print results.

Filament breaks

Whether the filament breaks can be affected by various factors, including the quality of the filament and environmental conditions. Here are some considerations:

FILAMENT QUALITY: Filament quality is a critical factor in preventing breakage. Low-quality filaments or filaments with defects may have weak spots or impurities that increase the likelihood of breakage. Make sure you’re using high-quality filaments from reputable suppliers.

EXPOSURE TO SUN AND MOISTURE: Prolonged exposure to the sun or moisture can affect the structure of the filament. Moisture can absorb into the filament, weakening its integrity and making it more brittle. Always store the filament spool inside the original bag or in an airtight container to protect it from these environmental conditions.

FILAMENT MATERIAL: The type of filament material can affect its breaking strength. Some materials, such as PLA, may be more brittle than others, such as ABS or PETG. Choose the filament material according to your specific printing needs.

HANDLING DURING PRINTING: When printing, make sure that the filament flows freely without friction or twisting, and that there are no contact points or corners that are too tight that could cause tension and breakage of the filament.

How to load the tank with dough

To load the tank with the dough, follow these steps:

  • PREPARATION OF THE DOUGH: Start by preparing a homogeneous dough without air bubbles. This can be done by kneading the dough manually or, for large quantities, using a mixer.
  • MANUAL LABOR: If you’re working with small amounts of dough, you can shape it by hand until you have an even consistency. Be sure to remove any air bubbles during processing.
  • USING A MIXER: For large amounts of dough, you can use a mixer to make a smooth, bubble-free dough. The mixer will help speed up the process and ensure even mixing.
  • LOADING THE TANK: Once the dough is prepared, it’s time to load the tank. There are several methods to do this, and the choice of method depends on the amount of dough and your personal preferences. You can check out a specific video to see two different approaches to loading the tank and follow the step-by-step instructions provided in the video.

Note: It is crucial to ensure that the dough is smooth and free of air bubbles before loading it into the tank, as this will directly affect the quality of your ceramic creations during 3D printing. Following the instructions provided in the video will help you get the best possible result.

What compressor do you need for your 3d printer?

The LDM 3D printer requires a suitable supply of compressed air for its operation. Air pressure is used to push the piston inside the tank, allowing the material to flow into the extruder. Here are some specifications and recommendations for the type of compressor to use with your LDM 3D printer:

REQUIRED PRESSURE: Compressed air must be supplied to the printer at a pressure of at least 10 bar. The printer needs this pressure only during printing, and the compressor will only turn on when it is necessary to restore the pressure.

CONNECTION: The supply of compressed air must be connected to the printer using a flexible nylon tube with an outer diameter of 8 mm, connected to an adjustable valve for pressure control mounted on the machine.

COMPRESSOR RECOMMENDATIONS:

FOR 2040 MODELS:

  • CAPACITY: The compressor should have a capacity of at least 25 liters.
  • PRESSURE: The pressure should be at least 8 bar.
  • OIL/OILLESS: It is preferable to use an oil-free compressor.
  • SILENCED: It is advisable to use a silenced compressor.

Examples of recommended compressors
:- Geotech AC 24-8-10-
STANLEY DST 150/8/24

FOR MODELS 40100 OR HIGHER:

  • CAPACITY: The compressor should have a capacity of at least 50 liters.
  • PRESSURE: The pressure should be at least 8 bar.
  • OIL/OILLESS: It is preferable to use an oil-free compressor.
  • SILENCED: It is advisable to use a silenced compressor.

Recommended compressor example:
Stanley DST 150/8/50

NOTES

It is important to note that it is recommended that you do not connect any other devices or accessories to the compressor dedicated to the printer, as this may cause discontinuity in pressure. However, since the printer has a built-in pressure control, the compressor does not necessarily need to be placed near the printer.

Be sure to follow the specific recommendations of your LDM printer manufacturer and choose a compressor that meets the pressure and capacity requirements needed to ensure reliable operation of your 3D printer.

Setting up a Delta WASP 2040 Clay 3D printer

Setting up a Delta WASP 40100 Clay 3D printer

The extruder motor has stopped working

If your 3D printer’s extruder motor has stopped working, there could be several causes behind this problem. Here are some checks and possible solutions:

CABLE NOT CONNECTED PROPERLY:

  • Make sure the extruder motor cable is properly connected to the MODU connector. A loose or disconnected cable can cause the motor to malfunction.

MATERIAL TOO SOFT:

  • It is important to make sure that the material has the right consistency. If the printing material is too soft, it tends to rise up the extruder and enter the motor, damaging it.
  • Also check that the air pressure is not excessively high for the consistency of the dough used.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE ENGINE:

  • Try removing the extruder shell to access the extruder motor.
  • Check to see if the motor is moving manually. If the motor appears to be working properly without the body, there may be some dry or clogged material in the extruder that is preventing proper screw movement.
  •  If this occurs, clean the extruder thoroughly.

ENGINE REPLACEMENT:

  • If you are unable to get the extruder motor to work despite testing and cleaning, the motor itself may need to be replaced.
  • Contact WASP Technical Support to find out how to proceed

What to do if material comes out from above the extruder

If you notice that material is leaking from the top of the extruder when 3D printing, it’s likely that the problem is caused by a material that’s too soft. This can occur if the clay or ceramic material does not have the correct consistency for printing.

CHECK THE CONSISTENCY OF THE MIXTURE: Make sure that the clay or ceramic mixture is prepared correctly. You can refer to the guidelines provided in the FAQ above on how to check if the clay is ready to be used for 3D printing.

PAUSE PRINTING: Stop the printing process immediately if you notice material leaking out of the extruder. Allowing printing to continue under these conditions could cause damage to the extruder or even block it completely.

It’s important to understand that material that is too soft can not only affect print quality but also damage your printer’s extruder. Pay close attention to the preparation of the material and its texture before starting.

LDM WASP Extruder cleaning

LDM WASP Extruder XL cleaning

LDM WASP EXTRUDER with DELTA WASP 2040

Clean Extruder

The “Clean Extruder” process is a procedure used to clean any leftover material inside the extruder. This is recommended as a good practice before starting any print, in order to remove material residues that may have partially hardened or accumulated during previous uses.

PURPOSE OF THE CLEAN EXTRUDER: The extruder is the part of the 3D printer responsible for extruding the material. Over time, material residue can accumulate inside the extruder, especially if the material has melted during printing and cooled. The “Clean Extruder” process aims to eliminate these residues, ensuring a clean material flow during the next print.

PREVENT BLOCKAGES: The presence of solidified residue inside the extruder could cause clogging during the next print. Using the “Clean Extruder” helps prevent this problem by ensuring that the extruder is clean and ready to receive the new material.

CLEANING PROCEDURE: Can be performed multiple times if necessary to ensure a thorough cleaning.FREQUENCY OF USE: How often you clean your extruder will depend on the type of material used, printing conditions, and other factors. In general, we recommend that you do this every time you change material type or periodically to maintain optimal performance.

Using the gearbox supplied with the CFS

The gearbox supplied with the Continuous Feeding System (CFS) can be used in conjunction with a pressure washer to clean the system hose. Follow these steps for proper use:

  • MOUNTING THE REDUCER: Connect the provided reducer to the CFS tube, making sure it is securely attached. This will reduce the size of the hose, allowing for a smooth coupling with the pressure washer.
  • CONNECTING THE PRESSURE WASHER: Once the reducer is mounted on the CFS hose, connect the end of the hose to the pressure washer. Use the appropriate adapters, if necessary, to ensure a secure connection.
  • ADJUSTING THE PRESSURE WASHER SETTINGS: Before you begin cleaning, check and adjust the pressure washer settings according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Adjust the pressure and water jet to ensure effective cleaning without damaging the system.
  • CLEANING THE CFS HOSE: Start the pressure washer and run water through the CFS hose. Make sure the water flows evenly through the hose, helping to remove any residue or particles.
  • ATTENTION TO THE DIRECTION OF WATER: Make sure water is flowed through the hose in a direction that makes it easier to remove debris. It may be helpful to run the water in the opposite direction to the normal flow of material during printing.
  • MAINTENANCE AND STORAGE OF THE GEARBOX: After use, remove the gearbox and store it safely. If necessary, perform maintenance operations such as cleaning to ensure proper operation in the future.

How to empty the CFS mesh tube

Cleaning the Continuous Feeding mesh tube is a crucial procedure to keep the printer functioning properly. Here’s how to do this:

  • TURN OFF THE MACHINE: Make sure the printer is completely turned off before starting the cleaning process.
  • DISCONNECT THE MESH TUBE: With the machine turned off, disconnect the mesh tube connecting the extruder to the Continuous Feeding System. Place the hose outlet inside a bucket to catch any residue.
  • CONNECT THE ADAPTER TO THE PRESSURE WASHER: To clean the inside of the hose, use the supplied adapter to connect the mesh hose to a pressure washer.
  • Using the Pressure Washer: With the pressure washer, let all residual material out of the bucket. Be sure to purge any remaining residue with water for a thorough cleaning.
  • ALTERNATIVE WITHOUT PRESSURE WASHER: If you do not have a pressure washer, you can use a long metal bar with a smaller diameter inside the netted pipe. Apply a small wet rag to the tip of the bar to best bleed and avoid damage to the interior walls.
  • WASP RECOMMENDATION: Cleaning with a pressure washer is considered more effective and safer, and is the procedure recommended by WASP.

Be sure to do this regularly, preferably when the material is still soft just after printing, to keep the system in top condition and prevent clogging or malfunctioning.

FEEDING REDUCT

The “Feeding Reduct” parameter is a function that, when increased, slows down the rotation of the auger placed on the Continuous Feeding System (CFS) in relation to that placed on the extruder. This adjustment is designed to manage the elasticity of the material during the feeding process.

AUGER ROTATION: The auger on the CFS and the auger on the extruder work in sync to push the material through the system. By changing the “Feeding Reduct” parameter, you can adjust the speed difference between the two augers. An increase in this parameter results in a slowdown of the auger on the CFS compared to that on the extruder.

ELASTICITY MANAGEMENT: By increasing the value of the “Feeding Reduct” parameter, a sort of shock absorber is provided in the speed of material feeding. This can be useful for managing the elasticity of the material more effectively, reducing the possibility of unwanted warping or other issues related to the specific characteristics of the material.

CUSTOMIZATION OF THE PRINTING PROCESS: This adjustment allows operators to customize the molding process to the specific needs of the material used, optimizing the feed speed to ensure a more accurate and defect-free print.

NOTE: It is important to note that the specific values to be assigned to this parameter may vary depending on the type of material and printing conditions.

Use tiles smaller than those provided

To adapt the dispenser to smaller tiles, a direct adjustment can be made.

DISPENSER ADJUSTMENT:

  • To adapt the dispenser to smaller tiles, a direct adjustment can be made.
  • Adjustment involves the process of gently tightening the two flanges present on the device.

CHANGING THE ALLOCATION AREA:

  • By tightening the flanges, the allocation area of the dispenser is reduced.
  • This adaptation allows for customization of the size, allowing for the use of smaller tiles.

SIZING FLEXIBILITY:

  • The ability to adjust the dispenser provides a flexible solution to your specific printing needs.
  • This flexibility allows you to customize the use of the system according to the specific size of the tiles you want.

 

How many tiles can be printed on before intervening

The number of tiles that can be printed before working on the machine is closely related to the specific size of the tiles themselves. The smaller the tiles, the greater the number that can be processed without intervention.

In principle, the machine offers the possibility of continuous work on a section of about 2.40 meters before intervention is necessary. This metric provides a general estimate of the maximum length of uninterrupted production.

How to print multiple copies

When confronted with the term “how many copies” in the context of the production system, it is essential to understand its specific meaning. This concept is crucial for determining the number of repetitions of a given file during the manufacturing process.

DEFINITION: The term “how many copies” refers to the number of times a specific print file is duplicated or repeated while the production system is running. Indicates how many times the selected file will be replicated to produce multiple identical objects.

PARAMETER IN THE CONFIGURATION: The ability to specify “how many copies” of a printed object is a parameter that can be configured within the production system before starting a print. Users can set this value according to the specific needs of the current production.

CUSTOMIZATION: This parameter offers a high degree of flexibility, allowing users to customize production according to the desired amount of items. It is especially useful when you need to mass-produce identical objects.

Leveling the roller plane

When faced with the need to ensure proper functioning of the APS, it is essential to follow a series of steps. The calibration process, while not requiring specific complex actions, involves a few key steps to ensure an optimal work surface.

NO SPECIFIC CALIBRATION: The APS does not require specific calibration as a stand-alone device. Its design aims to simplify the process, reducing the need for complex interventions.

FLATNESS CHECK: To ensure proper operation, it is recommended to check the flatness of the APS using a tool such as a spirit level.

ADJUSTING THE FEET (IF NECESSARY): In the event that the check reveals any deviations or differences in height, you can adjust the feet of the APS. This adjustment allows you to correct small imbalances and ensure an optimal work surface.

CFS: Assembly and use

To assemble the Continuous Feeding System, it is advisable to follow the video tutorial that illustrates its assembly step by step. Here are the basic steps for the operation:

  • PLACE THE BASE: Start by placing the base of the Continuous Feeding System in the vicinity of your 3D printer.
  • SYSTEM ASSEMBLY: Assemble the system by inserting the support tube, bearing, and central body of the CFS.
  • LOCKING THE MOTOR: Make sure the motor is locked in place to prevent unwanted rotation.
  • CONNECTIONS: Connect the power cable and data cable to your printer.
  • INSTALLING THE AUGER: Install the auger and connect it to the connecting pipe.
  • MATERIAL INSERTION: Insert the material you want to print into the system’s tank.
  • TURNING ON THE CONTINUOUS FEEDING: Turn on the Continuous Feeding to start the material feeding process.
  • MIXER SPEED CONTROL: Use the monitor labeled ‘mix’ to control and adjust the speed of the mixer in your system.
  • CHECKING THE MATERIAL EXTRUSION: Use the monitor called ‘extruder’ to check the extrusion of the material. This step is especially useful for making sure the material is extruded properly before you start printing.
  • CONNECTING TO THE EXTRUDER: Once you have verified that the system is working properly, you can connect the tube of the Continuous Feeding System to the extruder of your 3D printer.

Can I use the dough left in the tank for several days?

The slurries used in LDM 3D printers are suitable for use as long as they retain their consistency and moisture inside the tank. However, the durability of the dough depends on various factors, mainly the initial consistency of the material and the environmental conditions. Here are some important considerations:

  • QUICK DRYING: If the dough is left in the open air on a table, it can dry out quickly, becoming unusable in a matter of minutes or hours. Therefore, it is important to prevent the material from drying out outdoors.
  • STORAGE IN THE CLOSED TANK: If the dough is stored inside the printer’s closed tank, this can preserve the condition of the material for multiple days. The insulated tank prevents external moisture from entering and affecting the texture of the dough.

TO PROLONG THE SHELF LIFE OF THE DOUGH:

  • REMOVE PRESSURE: After completing printing, be sure to remove pressure from the tank immediately. This prevents the dough from being under constant pressure, which could affect its texture.
  • SEAL THE NOZZLE TIP TIGHTLY: To prevent the material closest to the nozzle outlet from hardening, you can tighten the nozzle tip with tape.

It is important to monitor the dough closely and assess whether it is still suitable for use before starting a new print. If the dough shows signs of hardening or alteration, you may need to reknead the material for optimal printing results.

Proportions of water with the various types of dough

In the world of ceramics, the amount of water in a body is crucial to achieving successful results. This applies to both commercial doughs and hand-molded works. However, when it comes to 3D printing and ceramic materials, water proportions can vary greatly.

COMMERCIAL SLURRIES AND THEIR WATER CONTENT: Commercial slurries are usually designed for specific purposes and can vary considerably in their composition. However, they often have an amount of water that stands at between 15 and 18% by weight when it comes to clay. This percentage is suitable for purposes such as hand modeling and the creation of traditional ceramic works.

3D PRINTING SLURRIES: For 3D printing, the moisture needs of clay can differ significantly from traditional use. Evidence shows that, to achieve successful 3D printing, a water content by weight of around 26% for clay is ideal. This higher water content makes it easier to process the clay through the print head without it drying out and blocking during the extrusion process. This higher percentage of water helps to achieve a consistency suitable for 3D printing.

PERCENTAGE VARIABILITY FOR OTHER CERAMIC MATERIALS: It is important to note that ideal water percentages may vary for other ceramic materials. Each material has its own specific characteristics, such as grain size and density, which affect the amount of water required to achieve an appropriate dough consistency. Therefore, the proportions of water may be different for clay than for other ceramic materials such as piglet or stoneware.

THE IMPORTANCE OF TESTING AND CUSTOMIZATION: Given the level of variability in materials, 3D printing technology, and environmental conditions, our top recommendation is to manually experiment and evaluate the dough. This means mixing the material with water and adapting the amount of water according to your specific needs. It is crucial to carry out empirical tests to achieve the desired consistency before starting 3D printing

Cooking ramp

The firing ramp is a critical aspect in ceramic production since it affects the formation and stability of clay artworks. However, there is no universal firing program, as several factors come into play, such as the type of kiln, the size and geometry of the work.

BAKING RAMP for RED & WHITE CLAY:

  • 20 °C – 100 °C in 2 hours
  • 100 °C – 200 °C in 2 hours 30 minutes
  • 200 °C – 350 °C in 3 hours
  • 350 °C – 600 °C in 5 hours
  • 600 °C – 800 °C in 2 hours 50 minutes
  • 800 °C – 1000 °C in 2 hours 30 minutes
  • 1010 °C – 1011 °C keep for 30 minutes (stall)

COOKING RAMP for PORCELAIN and STONEWARE

  • 20 °C – 100 °C in 1 hour
  • 100 °C – 537 °C in 5 lives for 20 minutes
  • 537 °C – 800 °C in 2 hours 40 minutes
  • 800 °C – 1065 °C in 1 life for 30 minutes
  • 1065 °C – 1190 °C in 50 minutes
  • 1190 °C – 1220 °C in 20 minutes
  • 1190 °C – 1235 °C keep for 10 minutes (stall)

Note: It is important to emphasize that this data represents general guidelines only. Each furnace and each situation may require specific adjustments.

It is highly recommended that you carefully study and check your oven, test with small pieces, and closely monitor the cooking process for optimal results.

Can I use chamotte, paper clay or other aggregates?

Aggregates added to 3D printing slurries can be useful for modifying their properties and facilitating the printing process. Here is some specific information about two commonly used types of aggregates:

CHAMOTTE:

  • Chamotte, also called grog, is a powder obtained by grinding ceramic materials after firing.
  • It can be added to clay mixtures to modify their properties.
  • It is particularly recommended for large prints to avoid collapse and reduce warping during firing.

PAPER CLAY:

  • The name “Paper Clay” is used for clay-based slurries to which cellulose fibers, such as paper, are added.
  • The addition of cellulose fibers can help during printing to reduce the collapse of structures and aid the drying process.
  • During firing, the cellulose fibers burn, leaving porosity in the finished piece.

MAXIMUM AGGREGATE SIZES: The maximum aggregate sizes that can be added to slurries depend on the type of extruder used in your LDM 3D printer:

  • LDM Extruder (version 3.0 and earlier): The maximum aggregate size should be a maximum diameter of 0.2 mm.
  • LDM XL Extruder (version 3.0 and earlier): For this extruder, the maximum aggregate size should have a maximum diameter of 0.5 mm.

Higher than stated particle size values could damage the extruder and cause nozzle clogging during printing.

In general, make sure that the press slurry is smooth and free of debris or hard parts that could impair the flow inside the extruder or on the nozzle. By experimenting with small amounts of aggregates and closely monitoring the printing process, you can determine how to achieve the desired results with your printer.

Using the bearing supplied with the CFS

The bearing supplied in the Continuous Feeding System (CFS) package is intended to facilitate the movement of the system. Follow these steps for proper installation:

  • BEARING PLACEMENT: Insert the bearing into the rotation pole of the CFS. Make sure the bearing is securely seated and runs smoothly along the path of the pole.
  • EASE MOVEMENT: The bearing will help reduce friction and ensure smoother movement of the system. This is especially important to ensure a continuous and smooth rotation during the printing operation.
  • INSTALLATION VERIFICATION: After positioning the bearing, visually and manually verify that it slides unimpeded along the rotation pole. Make sure there are no obstacles or installation issues that could impair proper operation.

Change speed and flow during printing

LDM printing, by its nature, involves working with mixtures that can vary from each other with different characteristics of consistency, humidity, homogeneity, rheology.
This requires greater flexibility in the printing process.

For this reason, WASP printers allow you to vary in real time significant values for the success of the process during printing.
Changing these values will change the reading of the gcode in progress (without changing it).
Changing the flow and speed values to print at their best is not to be considered a mistake or a “fallback” but is part of the fine-tuning of each dough and is therefore a recommended practice.

The main values that are changed to improve the process are:

FEEDRATE: During printing, you can turn the control knob to increase or decrease the speed in real time. This allows you to vary the print speed as the gcode runs. Here is some important information about speed adjustment:

  • The default value is usually set to 100%, which corresponds to the speed stated in the gcode.
  • Increasing the speed to 200% means that the gcode will run at twice the speed, while reducing it to 50% will mean that the gcode will run at half the speed.

It is important to note that changes in speed can indirectly affect flow proportionately.

FLOW: You can also adjust the flow while printing. Here’s how to do it:

  • Go to the Fit menu.
  • Select the “Flow” item.
  • Turn the dial to vary the flow value and confirm your selection.

The default value of the stream is usually set to 100%, which corresponds to the flow declared in the gcode. For example, setting the flow to 200% means that the extrusion speed will be doubled, while reducing it to 50% will halve it.

These options allow you to adapt the print in real-time to the specific needs of the material and body used, thus improving the printing process and achieving high-quality results.

Shrinkage, drying, deformation and cracking

CRACKS

  • DIFFERENT SHELL THICKNESSES: Printing with different shell thicknesses can cause internal stresses in the ceramic material, leading to cracks forming during drying and firing.
  • UNEVEN OR TOO FAST DRYING: Rapid drying or uneven drying can cause stress and warping in the ceramic material, resulting in cracks.
  • MATERIAL THAT IS TOO HARD: Using a ceramic material that is too hard can increase the likelihood of cracks during drying and firing.
  • PRINT BED THAT DOES NOT ABSORB MOISTURE: If the build bed is unable to absorb moisture evenly, the bottom of the part can remain damp, while the top dries faster, causing cracks.

UNDERSTANDING RETREATS:

  • It is important to consult the technical table of the ceramic material used to understand the specific shrinkage rate. Ceramic materials can shrink from 5% to 25% of the volume during the drying and firing process due to the evaporation of water.
  • Shrinkages are an intrinsic phenomenon in ceramic 3D printing and cannot be completely avoided. It is essential to take this into account when designing and planning the manufacturing process.

DRYING:

  • Drying should take place in a temperature- and humidity-controlled environment. This will help minimize internal stresses in the material.
  • Again, please refer to the technical table of the ceramic material for specific drying instructions.
  • In some cases, turning the workpiece upside down during drying or partially covering it with a thin plastic film can help maintain a more even drying and prevent warping.

Recommended settings for CFS

To achieve optimal performance from the Continuous Feeding System (CFS) during ceramic 3D printing, we recommend the following settings:

MIXER: Set the maximum mixer to 3.5. This value controls the maximum speed of the mixer within the system to ensure proper mixing of the material.

EXTRUDER: Set the extruder up to 15. This value adjusts the speed at which the material is extruded through the nozzle. Make sure this setting is in line with the specific needs of the material being used.

IMPORTANT NOTE: If the CFS is connected to the printer, these parameters may be remodulated synchronously with the machine and may not be manually editable.

Non-ceramic material – guidelines

Non-ceramic materials refer to substances that are dense and fluid but do not contain clay, such as materials based on geopolymers or other bio-based substances.

TIPS FOR PRINTING:

  • PERFORM PRELIMINARY TESTING: It is important to conduct preliminary testing with non-ceramic materials to evaluate possible shrinkage during printing and to determine optimal consistency. This process will help prevent errors and problems when printing.
  • DETERMINE THE OPTIMAL CONSISTENCY: The non-ceramic material should be printed when it has a consistency similar to that of traditional ceramic slurries. This means that it should be easily moldable but cohesive enough to hold its shape during printing.
  • CAREFUL RESEARCH: Printing with non-ceramic materials requires careful research and experimentation to find the proper material and texture. These materials can vary greatly from one another, so you need to invest time in locating the material that best suits your needs.
  • LACKS STANDARDIZED INFORMATION: Keep in mind that there is no standardized information for non-ceramic materials, as their specific characteristics can vary greatly based on the type of material used. Therefore, it is crucial to perform specific testing and research for the material you intend to use.

In summary, the use of non-ceramic materials requires special attention to consistency, research, and preliminary testing. Experimentation is essential to achieve high-quality printing results with these materials.

Is ceramic printing material a specific material for 3d printing?

No, ceramic printing material is not only specific to the 3D printer. Rather, it is the same material traditionally used in manual applications such as the potter’s wheel or other ceramic processing techniques. Ceramic 3D printing uses conventional ceramic materials adapted to the printing process.

This makes it possible to take advantage of the unique properties of ceramic materials in the production of complex and intricate objects through 3D printing technology.

How to manage the correct print flow

Controlling the print flow is a critical aspect of achieving high-quality prints on your LDM 3D printer. Here’s how you can properly manage your print workflow:

  • REAL-TIME LAYER THICKNESS CHECK: When printing, the best way to check if the flow is correct is to observe the thickness of the layer as it is printed. It’s important that the layer has a consistent thickness that is consistent with your 3D model settings.
  • CROSS-LAYER CHECK: Checks if the layers are perfectly close to each other. This means that there shouldn’t be a visible gap between layers. If you notice too much space, you may need to increase the flow to ensure good adhesion between layers.
  • AVOID MATERIAL OVERLOAD: At the same time, avoid having excessive flow that could lead to an overabundance of material. Too much material could ruin the print and nozzle, as well as make the print surface uneven. Check that the flow is balanced so that excessive material does not spill.
high flow
low flow
correct flow
  • EXPERIMENTATION & ADJUSTMENTS: Flow management may require a bit of experimentation. You can adjust the flow during printing based on how you see the material being deposited. Increase or decrease the flow in small increments until you get the results you want.
  • CONTINUOUS MONITORING: During printing, continue to closely monitor the flow and print conditions. If you notice any problems, such as underextrusion or overabundance, take action by adjusting the flow accordingly.

How to tell that clay is ready to be used for printing

To determine if clay is ready to be used in 3D printing (LDM), it is crucial to achieve the right consistency that allows for a smooth print. Here’s how you can check it in more detail:

STEP 1: PREPARING THE CLAY

  • Start by making sure you have the correct clay material prepared for 3D printing. The clay must be properly prepared, generally mixed with water, so that it has a consistency that allows it to flow through the small nozzle of the printer.

STEP 2: USING THE SYRINGE

  • To assess the consistency of the clay, use a syringe. A standard 5ml syringe works well for this purpose, but be sure to cut the spout so that the clay can flow freely.

STEP 3: CONSISTENCY TEST

  • Now, proceed with the clay consistency test using the syringe:

OPTION 1) HORIZONTAL MATERIAL (TOO MUCH HARDNESS): Gently press the plunger of the syringe until it reaches the 1 ml mark. If the material in the clay is so hard that it remains horizontal and does not flow out of the syringe, it means that the dough is too hard for printing. In this case, you need to add a little water to the clay and mix until you get a more fluid consistency.


WARNING: Filling a tank and trying to print a slurry like this means that the machine will not be able to get the material all the way to the extruder and will need to be opened and reprepared the dough.

hard material


OPTION 2) MATERIAL COLLAPSED TO THE GROUND (TOO SOFT): Again, gently press the plunger of the syringe up to 1 ml. If the material in the clay immediately collapses to the ground as soon as it comes out of the syringe, it means that the dough is too soft and does not hold its shape. In this case, you need to add more solid clay or wait for the clay to dry a bit before continuing with printing.


WARNING: Filling a tank with a material like this means that the part will be very prone to collapse during printing. Especially if the dough has not totally absorbed the water, the most liquid part of the material may leak from the upper part of the extruder.

soft material

OPTION 3) MATERIAL THAT SLOWLY FALLS TO THE GROUND (CORRECT CONSISTENCY): When you press the syringe plunger up to 1ml, if the material in the clay flows slowly to the ground, maintaining its shape without immediately collapsing, then you have reached the correct consistency for 3D printing. In this case, the clay is ready to be used in the printing process.

correct material

STEP 4: PRESSURE TEST

  • Another test to do is to check the pressure in the clay when it comes out of the printer. The ideal pressure should be between 4 and 5 bar. Make sure that the material comes out evenly and without burrs and that the pressure is stable.

ARE YOU NEW TO CLAY 3D PRINTING AND CAN’T FIND THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY?

Start with a dough that is slightly softer and stickier than recommended in the previous instructions. A more water-rich slurry can simplify the initial printing process, although you’ll need to be careful not to print too quickly, or the material may collapse during the process.

With time and experience, you’ll gain the ability to create slurries for printing with the ideal texture for technology. Initially, it is best to be cautious and gradual in adjusting the dough to avoid blockages in the extruder. As you gain confidence and better understand how the ceramic material behaves during 3D printing, you’ll be able to precisely tailor the texture of the slurry to your specific needs.

Experimentation and practice are key to mastering clay 3D printing, so don’t be afraid to do trial and error to achieve your desired consistency.

Note: If you have any additional concerns or difficulties, consider participating in advanced courses taught by specialized technicians. These courses can be customized to hone your skills and provide you with specific support for using your 3D printer for clay. Advanced training can significantly help overcome initial challenges and deepen your understanding of technology.

How to open the tank?

It is essential to carefully follow the specific instructions for your tank model and have the appropriate tools to perform the opening safely and without damaging the tank.

Here’s how to open the tank based on the model year of manufacture:

MODELS FROM 2019 TO PRESENT:

For tank models produced from 2019 to date, such as the Delta WASP Clay and the WASP Clay Kit, opening instructions are available in a specific video. It is recommended that you follow the provided video carefully to perform this operation correctly.

PRE-2019 MODELS:

For tank models manufactured before 2019, opening the tank involves the simple operation of unscrewing the caps. However, this procedure can be gentler and require more attention. Be sure to keep the tank threads clean and well lubricated for easy opening. Additionally, you may need to use a specific tool, such as an oil filter band wrench.

How to load the tank with the dough?

Prepare an homogeneous and without air bubbles dough.
You can hand paste the dough or for big quantity you can use a mixer.
Just watch the video to see two different  loading-ways.

Manual Leveling

Manual leveling is a procedure that is used to restore the flatness of the print bed relative to the printer reference.

Leveling is part of the machine’s calibration values, and the right value is essential for smooth operation.

This value is automatically saved by the machine during self-calibration.

On machines that are not compatible with the self-calibration system, it is necessary to use the Change Height procedure before leveling the table, in order to obtain a correct calibration.

When a plane is not leveled correctly, there are several problems, as shown in the figure.
This can cause detachment in parts where the printer reference is higher than the real one, and collisions where the printer reference is lower than the real one.

The leveling of the plate is based on the Cartesian principle of the plane passing through three points.

As you can see in the figure, there are three adjustment points arranged around the plate according to the vertices of an equilateral triangle (POSITION 1,2,3
)By properly adjusting each of these points with respect to the printer’s reference (physically represented by the nozzle) you get the correct flatness for printing.
There is also a fourth central position (POSITION 0) that is not adjustable but sensitive to other adjustments. It is useful during the leveling process

How to print supports with the right extruder

Dual extruder printing is an advanced solution that allows you to achieve diverse and complex results in a single print session. To ensure that this process is carried out correctly, it is crucial to follow a series of precise steps.

Below, we provide a general guide for using the dual extruder for media creation:

PROFILE IMPORT:

  • Import the double extruder profile corresponding to your needs from our download page.

MEDIA CONFIGURATION:

  • In the “EDIT PROCESS” section, select “MEDIA”.
    • enable supports and select “RIGHT EXTRUDER” as the extruder for the supports.

PARAMETER SETTINGS:

  • Configure all the necessary parameters according to your specifications.
    • Pay special attention to print temperatures that match those of the material to be used

CHECKING THE ACTIVE EXTRUDER:

  • To monitor which extruder is taking care of a specific part of the print, go to the “PREPARE TO PRINT” screen.
    • Find the drop-down menu on the left labeled “ACTIVE TOOLHEAD.”
    • As highlighted in the image below, this menu indicates which of the two extruders is currently active for the desired print zone.

Changing WASP ZEN Extruder Cartridge

Change Anti Ooze Shield

Here is a step-by-step procedure on how to replace the Anti Ooze Shield in the WASP ZEN Extruder and WASP ZEN X Extruder

STEP 1: MAKE SURE THE EXTRUDER IS COOL

Make sure the extruder is cooled and has reached a touch-safe temperature. This is important to avoid scalding during the replacement process. Usually, wait for the extruder to come to room temperature.

STEP 2: INSTALL THE NEW ANTI OOZE SHIELD

Watch the video tutorial for a detailed visual guide on removing the Anti Ooze Shield. Carefully follow the instructions provided in the video.

Change Core

Replacing extruders in multicore printers, such as Spitfire, Zen, and Flex extruders, may vary slightly from one model to another, but here’s a general procedure for changing extruders:

STEP 1: TURN OFF THE PRINTER

Before starting any maintenance, make sure your multicore printer is completely turned off and disconnected from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.

STEP 2: DISCONNECT THE RJ CONNECTORS AND THREAD PULLER

  • Disconnect all RJ connectors from the extruder and wire puller. These connectors are responsible for electrical communication between the extruder and the control system.
  • Also disconnect the wire puller, which can be connected to the extruder or the power system.

STEP 3: UNSCREW THE SCREWS IN THE METAL JOINTS OF THE HANDLING ARMS

  • Using a 4 mm hex wrench, unscrew the six screws that secure the metal joints of the handling arms to the extruder.
  • Once the screws are fully loosened, you can pull out the handling arms and keep them resting along the rails.

STEP 4: REMOVE THE SILICONE RUBBER BANDS

  • Remove the three silicone rubber bands from the loops on the handling trolleys.
  • NOTE: This part may not be required for the Flex Extruder.

STEP 5: PLACE THE NEW EXTRUDER

  • Store any leftover wiring or take the necessary wiring, depending on your needs, in the compartment located on the middle level inside the printer.
  • Place the new extruder in the appropriate area.

STEP 6: INSERT THE SILICONE RUBBER BANDS AND SECURE THE JOINTS

  • Insert the silicone elastic bands into the handling trolleys via the dedicated loops if necessary.
  • Insert the joints of the handling arms into the seats of the extruder plate.
  • Retighten the six screws with the 4 mm hex wrench to lock the joints to the extruder plate.

STEP 7: CONNECT THE RJ CONNECTORS AND PROCEED WITH SELF-CALIBRATION

  • Connect the RJ harnesses of the extruder and wire puller according to the corresponding colors.
  • Once the replacement of the extruders is complete, proceed to self-calibrate the printer to ensure that everything is set up correctly for future prints.

Remember that the specific procedure may vary slightly based on the model of your multicore printer and the type of extruder used. Be sure to also consult your printer’s specific manual for further details and instructions.

Extruder cleaning

OPERATION A

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Load the extruder with filament as usual.
  • Turn the thread puller knob counterclockwise to start extrusion and clockwise to retract the filament. Alternate these motions, emphasizing extrusion, until you see clean filament coming out of the nozzle.

OPERATION B

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • If the wire struggles to be extruded, there may be a small particle or blockage in the nozzle. Use a fine needle to gently remove these particles from the nozzle.

OPERATION C

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Press down on the quick coupling ring located at the top of the extruder.
  • Slide the connecting tube between the extruder and the thread puller upwards.
  • Insert the PLA filament directly from the top into the hole of the extruder and manually push it down until the extrusion begins.

OPERATION D

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Press down on the quick coupling ring located at the top of the extruder.
  • Slide the connecting tube between the extruder and the thread puller upwards.
  • Insert a steel wire with a diameter of 2 mm inside the steel barrel of the extruder.

Push the steel wire down until you remove any blockages or material residue that may be clogging the steel barrel.

The plastic on my new SPITFIRE Extruder looks worn

The plastic used for the outer shell of SPITFIRE extruders is designed to be highly resistant to high temperatures and wear, thanks to the use of a technopolymer filled with a significant amount of fiberglass (50%). This gives the material remarkable durability and resistance to high temperatures, allowing the extruders to work for long periods without melting or deformation, even during repeated assembly and disassembly on the machine.

However, this special composition of the plastic can affect the external appearance of the extruder. The matte, uneven finish, with some lighter areas, is the result of the varying density of the fiberglass on the surface of the material. This is a normal appearance and does not affect the functionality or performance of the extruder.

In short, even though the outer plastic of the SPITFIRE extruder may look worn or have an uneven finish, it is designed this way to ensure long life and resistance to high temperatures, which is essential for 3D printing applications.

Replacing the thread puller

Here is a step-by-step procedure for replacing the thread puller on your 3D printer, following the video tutorial provided:

STEP 1: TURN OFF THE PRINTER

  • Before starting any maintenance, make sure your 3D printer is completely turned off and disconnected from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.

STEP 2: PULL OUT THE NYLON TUBE

  • Press down on the quick-release ring located on top of the extruder.

STEP 3: UNPLUG THE 8-PIN CONNECTOR

  • Detach the 8-pin connector located on the wiring harness between the thread puller and the top of the printer.

STEP 4: CUT THE CABLE TIES

  • Using scissors or a wire cutter, cut the plastic cable ties that hold the thread puller cables in place.

STEP 5: REPLACE THE 3 RUBBER BANDS

  • Remove the 3 green/clear rubber bands from the old thread puller.
  • Replace the old thread puller with the new one.
  • Insert the green/transparent rubber bands into the three pins located at the top of the new thread puller.

STEP 6: INSERT THE NYLON TUBE

  • Insert the nylon tube with a diameter of 6 mm into the quick coupling located above the extruder.

STEP 7: RECONNECT THE 8-PIN CONNECTOR

  • Reconnect the 8-pin connector to the wiring harness between the thread puller and the top of the printer.

STEP 8: REPLACE THE CABLE TIES AND CABLES

  • Reposition the plastic ties and cables as they were before maintenance.

The thread puller jerks or does not turn

If your 3D printer’s thread puller jerks or doesn’t spin properly, follow these steps to fix the problem:

STEP 1: CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED

  • If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the molten filament may have difficulty flowing properly, causing a blockage in the thread puller’s feeding system. Perform a manual leveling of the print bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust residue that may hinder proper operation.

STEP 2: CHECK THE PRINT SETTINGS

  • LAYER HEIGHT: Make sure the layer height is set correctly. If it is too high, the material may have difficulty being extruded. The maximum allowable height is half the diameter of the nozzle used for printing.
  • TEMPERATURE: Check that the temperature is set correctly for the material you are printing. If it is too low, the filament may have difficulty being extruded.
  • PRINT SPEED: Check the print speed and make sure it is within the recommended parameters. If the print is too fast, it may cause problems for the thread puller to extrude the material properly.

NOTE: It is advisable to always start with the basic print profiles available in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website, as these profiles are optimized for the specific material and printer.

STEP 3: CHECK EXTRUDER CLEANLINESS

  • Make sure that the nozzle is well cleaned and that the material is extruded evenly. If necessary, clean the extruder (see chapter “Extruder cleaning”)

STEP 4: CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER

  • Make sure the thread puller’s power cord is properly connected to the printer. In case it is not connected, connect the cable while the printer is turned off.
  • Turn on the printer and send an autohome. Check that the thread taker control is active. To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Prepare > Movement > 1mm > Extruder.
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller does not idle but is well connected to the motor shaft. To do this, press and hold the thread puller trigger while turning the black knob. Then, screw in the M3 grub screw until it matches the flat surface of the motor shaft, making sure the toothed part is aligned with the filament passage.
  • Check if the thread puller motor fan is running. If it is not active, there may be a problem with the fan. If this is the case, it is advisable to contact technical support for a diagnosis and possible replacement of the fan.

The double-pull thread puller jerks or does not turn

If your 3D printer’s thread puller jerks or doesn’t spin properly, follow these steps to fix the problem:

STEP 1: CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED

  • If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the molten filament may have difficulty flowing properly, causing a blockage in the thread puller’s feeding system. Perform a manual leveling of the print bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust residue that may hinder proper operation.

STEP 2: CHECK THE PRINT SETTINGS

  • LAYER HEIGHT: Make sure the layer height is set correctly. If it is too high, the material may have difficulty being extruded. The maximum allowable height is half the diameter of the nozzle used for printing.
  • TEMPERATURE: Check that the temperature is set correctly for the material you are printing. If it is too low, the filament may have difficulty being extruded.
  • PRINT SPEED: Check the print speed and make sure it is within the recommended parameters. If the print is too fast, it may cause problems for the thread puller to extrude the material properly.

NOTE: It is advisable to always start with the basic print profiles available in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website, as these profiles are optimized for the specific material and printer.

STEP 3: CHECK EXTRUDER CLEANLINESS

  • Make sure that the nozzle is well cleaned and that the material is extruded evenly. If necessary, clean the extruder (see chapter “Extruder cleaning”)

The extruder goes down at the end of the print

The situation where the extruder goes down at the end of the print can be problematic and cause damage to the printed part. Here’s how to deal with this situation:

STEP 1: DISABLE THE “M84” COMMAND

  • Log in to your slicing software (e.g., Cura, PrusaSlicer, Simplify3D) and open the print profile you are using.
  • Look for the “ending scripts” section within the print profile settings. This section contains the commands that are automatically executed at the end of each print.
  • Find the “M84” command within the “ending scripts” section and disable it by adding a semicolon (;) before the command, as shown in the example: “; M84″.
  • Saves changes to the print profile.

Please note: After about 10 minutes, even if the “M84” command has been disabled, the motors will still deactivate automatically.

Error MINTEMP / MAXTEMP

The “MINTEMP” or “MAXTEMP” error on a 3D printer is associated with extruder temperature issues. Here’s what you can do to fix this:

STEP 1: CHECK THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • Check that the extruder’s power RJ45 connector is properly connected to the extruder. Make sure it is well inserted and that there are no loose joints or faulty connections.

STEP 2: RESTART THE PRINTER

  • After checking and, if necessary, replacing the RJ45 connector, restart the printer. This will allow the system to perform a new control on the extruder temperature.

STEP 3: CHECK THE TEMPERATURE OF THE EXTRUDER

  • When heating the extruder, check that the temperature gradually increases and reaches the desired value without error. If you notice that the temperature is not reached or fluctuates significantly, there may be a problem with the extruder’s temperature sensor or heater.

STEP 4: CONTACT TECHNICAL SUPPORT

  • If, despite the attempts described above, the error persists, it is recommended that you contact Technical Support as you need a more thorough diagnosis to determine the specific cause and resolve the issue.

The surface of the workpiece is spongy

A spongy print surface can be the result of several problems in your 3D printer or printing process. Here are a number of things you can do to resolve this issue:

VERIFY THE G.CODE FILE:

  • Make sure that the Gcode file you generated by the slicing software is correct and error-free. Check that there are no modeling defects in the STL file, such as open edges or non-manifold surfaces, that could cause problems when printing.

VERIFY THE SLICING PARAMETERS:

  • Check that the parameters in the slicing software are correct. Make sure the nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-step per mm are set correctly according to the specifications of your printer and the material used.

CHECK THE EXTRUDER:

  • Check that the extruder’s power RJ45 connector is properly connected to the extruder.
  • Check that the hoses connecting the thread puller and extruder are well connected and have no clogging or dirt inside them.
  • Make sure the filament has been loaded correctly and has made it all the way to the melting zone inside the nozzle.
  • Check that the extruder’s cooling fan is working properly.

CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED:

  • If the nozzle is too close to the print bed, the molten filament may have difficulty coming out, causing a blockage in the thread puller and motor gear. Perform a manual leveling of the build bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust or debris that may be causing tension during printing.

CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER:

  • Make sure the wire puller’s power cord is securely connected to the printer’s motherboard. If necessary, connect the cable while the printer is turned off.
  • Check that the thread taker control is active in the printer menu: Menu > Prepare > Movement > 1mm > Extruder.
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller is well connected to the motor shaft and that it is not idling. You can do this by pressing and holding the thread puller pliers, leaving the system unlocked, and turning the black knob. Then screw the M3 grub screw onto the flat surface of the motor shaft, making sure the toothed part is aligned with the filament passage.
  • Check that the thread puller motor fan is running. If that doesn’t work, it’s a good idea to contact technical support.

Printing is staggered

If your print is offset, it may be due to lost footsteps in motion or other problems in the printing process. Here’s how you can fix this:

CHECK THE SPEED AND ACCELERATION IN THE GCODE:

  • Check the print speed in the Gcode file. Speeds that are too high can cause the belts to slip around the pulleys and lose steps. Make sure the print speed is set appropriately for your printer and the material used.
  • It also verifies the accelerations in the movements. Accelerations of more than 6000 mm/s² may cause belt slippage. Check that the acceleration settings are appropriate for your printer. Keep in mind that these figures may vary depending on the model of your printer.

CHECK THE EXTRUSION FLOW:

  • Controls the percentage of material flow set in the slicing software. A flow rate greater than 100% can cause excessive material build-up during printing, causing collisions between layers. Make sure the flow percentage is set correctly for the material you are using.

CHECK THE EXTRUDER NOZZLE:

  • Check that the extruder nozzle is properly attached. If the nozzle is unscrewed, it may cause bumps during printing. Make sure it is tightly screwed in and in the correct position.

The printer makes noise

The 3D printer can make noises during printing, and these noises can have several causes. Here are some things you need to do to identify and fix your noise problem:

COOLING FAN:

  • Check the cooling fan on the extruder. If it is set to maximum speed, it may be noisy. From the slicing software, adjust the fan speed according to your needs. A slower speed may reduce noise without compromising print quality.
  • Make sure the fan propellers are intact and that they are not dirty or clogged with print residue or dust. If this is the case, turn off the printer and very carefully clean any debris or dust from the propellers or fan body.

NOISE LEVEL OF THE HANDLING AXES:

  • Make sure that the noise is not coming from the cooling fan on the extruder. If so, follow the directions above.
  • Check the smoothness of the pads on the moving axes by sliding them slowly with constant movements from top to bottom and vice versa. If there is friction and abnormal noise, you may need to contact technical support for maintenance.
  • Check the correct smoothness of the belt return bearings, which are located at the bottom of the slide rails. If the bearings are worn or damaged, they may be the cause of the noise.
  • Check the teeth of the belts. If you notice any expansion between the teeth of the belt or pinching, it may cause noise during printing. If so, you should replace the belt.

LOSS OF MOTOR STEPS:

  • Check to see if the printer’s motors are overheating during printing. Excessive overheating can cause loss of steps. Make sure the motors are properly cooled and are not clogged with dust or debris.
  • Check that the pulleys are firmly fixed on the motor shafts. Pulleys slipping on the shaft can cause lost steps.
  • Make sure the motor mount is stable and doesn’t move during printing.

EXTRUDER SHOCKS:

  • Check the leveling of the print bed. Keep a distance of about 0.1 mm between the nozzle and the print bed (thickness of an 80g A4 sheet).
  • Check the size of the print file. If the file exceeds the maximum print volume size, it may hit the walls of the printer. Set the correct parameters in the slicing software. (Starting with F20_rev6, F21_rev3, and F30_rev4 firmware, there is a software limitation.)
  • Check to see if any move plug-ins are installed when printing. Sometimes, these plug-ins can cause shocks. Make sure that the sum of the part width and the value of the plug-in does not exceed the maximum printable diameter. (Starting with F20_rev6, F21_rev3, and F30_rev4 firmware, there is a software limitation.)
  • Check that the extruder nozzle is securely fastened and is not unscrewed.

Failure to extrude filament

Not extrusion of filament in a 3D printer can be caused by several issues. Here are some checks and solutions to address this issue:

GCODE VERIFICATION:

  • Make sure that the STL file used to generate the Gcode has no modeling defects, such as non-solid surfaces or geometry issues. Use 3D modeling software such as Blender or MeshLab to correct any defects in the model.

VERIFICATION OF SLICING PARAMETERS:

  • Control parameters in the slicing software, such as nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-steps per millimeter. Make sure they are configured correctly for your extruder and the type of filament you are using.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE EXTRUDER:

  • Make sure the extruder power cord is securely connected to the extruder. If it is not properly connected, do so with the printer turned off.
  • Check that the hoses connecting the thread puller to the extruder are well connected and free of clogging or dirt. You can remove the hose and inspect it for any blockages or obstructions.
  • Make sure the filament is properly fed into the melting zone inside the nozzle. Check to see if the filament is stuck or caught inside the extruder.

CHECKING THE LEVELING OF THE BUILD BED:

  • Controls the leveling of the print bed. If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the filament may have difficulty coming out, causing the thread puller’s gear and motor to become blocked. Manually level the build bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust or debris.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER:

  • Make sure the power cord of the thread puller is securely connected. If it isn’t, connect the cable with the printer turned off.
  • Make sure the thread taker control is active in the printer’s menu (menu/prepare/movement/1mm/extruder).
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller is securely connected to the motor shaft. You can do this by pressing and holding the thread puller pliers and turning the knob. Make sure that the M3 grub screw is screwed onto the flat surface of the motor shaft, keeping the toothed part centered with the filament passage.
  • Check that the thread puller motor fan is working properly. If the fan is not running, you may need to contact technical support for repair or replacement of the motor.

FILAMENT CONTROL:

  • Make sure the filament is of good quality and has no knots or imperfections.
  • Check that the filament has not expired, as the old filament may be more susceptible to clogging.
  • Check the humidity of the print material, particularly if it is moisture-sensitive filaments. Absorbed moisture can adversely affect print quality, causing problems such as burrs, blemishes, and changes in material properties.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL:

  • Check that the nozzle temperature is set correctly for the type of filament you are using. Too low a temperature can cause blockages.

What should i do if the material tends to wrinkle in the sharp parts?

Material wrinkling on sharp parts during 3D printing is a common problem caused by material shrinkage and built-up stresses.


FACTORS INFLUENCING MATERIAL SHRINKAGE:

  • CHOOSING THE RIGHT MATERIAL: Consider whether it is essential to use the current material for your print. Sometimes, there are versions of materials with less shrinkage. Choosing a material with different characteristics might solve the problem of ripple.
  • SHRINKAGE MANAGEMENT: Ripple is directly related to shrinkage that occurs during material cooling. You can consider using materials with a low shrinkage rate or adjust your print settings to minimize this effect.
  • MODEL ORIENTATION: Changes the orientation of the model in the printout. Examining the arrangement of objects in the print can help reduce wrinkling. Experiment with different angles and orientations to find the best solution.

To address this issue, you can take several steps depending on the goals of your print:

IF YOU ARE PRINTING A PART WITH MECHANICAL PRECISION:

  • LOWER THE LAYER HEIGHT: Reduce the layer height when printing. This can improve accuracy and reduce the rippled effect on sharp parts.
  • INCREASE COOLING FANS: Increase the speed or intensity of the cooling fans on your 3D printer. This helps to cool the material more quickly and reduce tensions.
  • REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY: Reduce the temperature of the extruder slightly. This can help reduce material shrinkage.
  • REDUCE SPEED: Decrease the print speed. Printing more slowly can allow the material to settle more evenly and reduce tensions.

IF YOU ARE PRINTING FOR AESTHETIC APPEARANCE:

  • INCREASE FLOW: Increases the flow of material during printing. This can help to better fill in the sharp parts and reduce the frizzy effect.

IF THE PROBLEM PERSISTS:

  • LOWER THE LAYER HEIGHT: If the problem continues, further consider lowering the layer height to achieve greater accuracy.
  • INCREASE IN COOLING FANS: Keep experimenting with cooling fans. Increased cooling can often improve the aesthetic appeal of printed parts.
  • REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY: If material shrinkage is still an issue, you can further reduce the temperature of the extruder.
  • REDUCE SPEED: Reduce the print speed to allow for greater accuracy in sharp parts.

By experimenting with these settings and taking appropriate measures, you can improve the quality of your printed parts and reduce wrinkling on sharp parts. The best solution will depend on your specific printing needs and the material used.

The workpiece does not stick to the print bed

If the printed part does not adhere properly to the print bed, there are several measures you can take to improve adhesion:

LEVELING THE BUILD BED: Make sure the build bed is properly leveled. Follow the recommended leveling procedure for your 3D printer to ensure that the first layer is even and well-fitting to the bed.

PREPARING THE PRINT SURFACE: You can apply a layer of spray glue or stick glue to create an adhesive surface on the print bed. Be sure to apply a thin, even layer. This can help improve the adhesion of the first layer of your model.

TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT: Check that the temperature of the nozzle and heatbed is set correctly according to the material you are using. Consult the filament manufacturer’s technical specifications for recommended temperatures. Often, slightly increasing the temperature of the build bed can improve adhesion.

USING ADHESIVE SUBSTRATES: Some people prefer to use adhesive substrates such as Kapton tape, blue painter’s tape, or BuildTak surfaces. These substrates can greatly improve the adhesion of the material to the build bed.

USING A RAFT OR BRIM: If the problem persists, you can consider using a “raft” or “brim.” These are additional structures that are printed underneath your model and provide a larger surface area for adhesion to the build bed.

CLEANING THE PRINT BED: Make sure the build bed is clean and free of any previous filament residue or other impurities. You can clean the build bed with isopropyl alcohol or soap and water.

EXPERIMENT WITH SLICING SETTINGS: You can also experiment with your software’s slicing settings. For example, you can increase the “first layer extrusion width” or adjust the height of the first layer to improve adhesion.

Try these solutions one at a time until you can achieve the desired adhesion for your molded parts. Sometimes, a bit of experimentation is needed to find the ideal settings for your environment and print material.

The machine doesn’t print my part well

3D printing can be a complex process, and achieving perfect results requires attention to various details. Here are some steps you can follow to deal with this situation:

CHECK YOUR SLICER SETTINGS: Make sure you are using the slicer settings that are in accordance with your machine. You can find our official press profiles on our website. These profiles have been optimized to work best with our printers.

CHECK MODEL GEOMETRY: Check that your 3D  model has geometry that is suitable for 3D printing. It is important that the model is well-designed, with no gaps, holes in the surface of the model, or geometric errors that could cause problems when printing.

Please note that WASP cannot guarantee positive results for projects that are not compatible with printing technology.

CLEANING THE EXTRUDER: A clean extruder is essential for proper printing. Check that the extruder is free of debris or jammed filaments. Periodic cleaning of the extruder can help avoid extrusion problems.

USE THE PROPER PRINTING MATERIAL: Make sure you are using the right printing material for your needs. Each material has its own specific characteristics and requirements, so choose the material that best suits your project and the printer you use.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

The machine does not print well a material that is not supported by WASP

We understand the challenges that can arise during 3D printing, especially when using complex materials or geometries. However, it is important to note that Delta WASP printers have been designed and tested to work with materials that we certify. This choice was made to ensure the quality and reliability of our products.

In view of this, we cannot provide specific print profiles or detailed assistance for the use of materials that are not certified by WASP. In addition, we do not take responsibility for non-conforming results on finished parts or for the behavior of printers with such materials.

However, that doesn’t mean we’re disinterested in your results. To help you get the most out of your printer and the material you’re using, here are some steps you can follow:

USE BASIC PROFILES: Start with the basic print profiles we provide. These can be easily found in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website. You can select the extruder or printer model you have and make adjustments to suit your specific needs.

PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Some advanced materials require some printing experience, especially when it comes to complex geometries. Experiments and practice can help you better understand how to achieve optimal results.

MATERIAL GUIDES: Check out our material guides, if available. These guides contain useful information on how to deal with specific materials and solve common problems.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

We are here to support you in your 3D printing experience and to answer your questions. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support team.

The machine does not print this part well with this material

If you’re having trouble printing a part with a certain material, it’s important to perform a series of checks and considerations to achieve better printing results. Here are some steps to follow:

SUITABLE MATERIAL: Check that the material you are using is suitable for your application. Different materials have different properties, such as printing temperature, strength, and flexibility. Make sure you’re using a material that’s compatible with your project.

Some materials can absorb moisture or deteriorate over time, which can affect print quality. Check that the material is not degraded.

CHECK MODEL GEOMETRY: Check that your 3D  model has geometry that is suitable for 3D printing. It is important that the model is well-designed, with no gaps, holes in the surface of the model, or geometric errors that could cause problems when printing.

Please note that WASP cannot guarantee positive results for projects that are not compatible with printing technology.

CHECK YOUR SLICER SETTINGS: Make sure you are using the slicer settings that are in accordance with your machine. You can find our official press profiles on our website. These profiles have been optimized to work best with our printers.

CLEAN EXTRUDER: Check that the printer extruder is clean and free of material residue or obstructions. Clean the nozzle if necessary and make sure the filament flows freely.

PROPER MECHANICAL OPERATION: Check that your printer is in good mechanical condition. Check that all belts are properly tightened, that there are no damaged components, and that the axles are moving smoothly.

USE BASIC PROFILES: Start with the basic print profiles we provide. These can be easily found in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website. You can select the extruder or printer model you have and make adjustments to suit your specific needs.

PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Some advanced materials require some printing experience, especially when it comes to complex geometries. Experiments and practice can help you better understand how to achieve optimal results.

MATERIAL GUIDES: Check out our material guides, if available. These guides contain useful information on how to deal with specific materials and solve common problems.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

We are here to support you in your 3D printing experience and to answer your questions. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support team.

What is the right setting to work with my part?

We understand that achieving optimal results when 3D printing can be a challenge, especially when it comes to specific parts or particular materials. However, it is important to note that WASP Technical Support does not provide services for the development of optimized print profiles for individual products.

However, we want to offer solutions to help you achieve your printing goals. Here are some options available to you:

OPTIMIZATION PATH: You can consider the option of a customized optimization path with WASP’s experts. This can be accomplished in the form of a tailor-made course or a specific printing service. Along the way, you’ll work closely with our experts to develop the ideal settings for your specific part or material.

BASIC RESOURCES: To get started, you can check out the  basic print profiles we provide for our printers. These profiles can serve as a starting point and can be customized to suit your needs.

PERSONAL EXPERIMENTS: The printing experience is a continuous learning process. Experiment with the settings and test to see which ones work best for your specific case.

GENERAL SUPPORT: Our technical support team is available to answer your general questions about 3D printing and our printers. While we can’t develop specific profiles, we can offer advice on how to deal with certain issues or challenges.

We want you to get the most out of your 3D printing experience, and we’re here to provide the support you need. If you would like more information about optimization paths or have specific questions, we encourage you to contact our team to discuss your options.

The machine does not print well with the settings stated in the data sheet (e.g. speed)

It is important to emphasize that the specifications stated in the technical data sheet of our machine represent limit values and not absolute guarantees for every type of printing or processing. These values are provided for reference and may vary based on various factors, including the material used, the complexity of the part geometry, and other printing parameters.

For example, high-speed printing may only be possible with certain materials and parts that have relatively simple geometries. Optimizing print profiles for production speed is a complex process that requires experience and knowledge.

If you’re interested in learning how to optimize a print profile for production speed or have questions about settings specific to your application, we recommend that you consider taking our Advanced 3D Printing course. This course is designed to deepen your understanding of 3D printing and to hone your skills in managing print settings. You can find more details about the course and how to participate here.

We’re here to give you the support and resources you need to get the best results from your machine; So, don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions or need assistance specific to your application.

What’s the difference between Spitfire and Spitfire X Extruders?

The Spitfire X extruder represents the latest evolution in the Spitfire extruder line. Here are some technical details and important information about its compatibility:

GENERAL COMPATIBILITY: The Spitfire X extruder is available in two versions with different voltages: 12V and 24V. This voltage choice allows it to be used with various Delta WASP printers.

12V VERSIONS COMPATIBILITY: The 12V version of the Spitfire X extruder (the new version of the Spitfire Black extruder) is compatible with the following Delta WASP printers:

  • Delta WASP 2040
  • Delta WASP 2040 Turbo
  • Delta WASP 4070
  • Delta WASP 60100

24V VERSIONS COMPATIBILITY: The 24V version of the Spitfire X extruder (the new version of the Spitfire Red extruder) is compatible with the following Delta WASP printers:

  • Delta WASP 2040 PRO
  • Delta WASP 2040 T2
  • Delta WASP 4070 IND
  • Delta WASP 4070 IND 4.0
  • Delta WASP 2040 IND 4.0
  • Delta WASP 3MT IND

MAIN DIFFERENCE: The main innovation of the Spitfire X extruder compared to previous versions is its internal system. This system allows changing only the nozzle, which is made of hardened steel, rather than the entire cartridge. This simplifies the maintenance process and nozzle replacement, making the operation faster and more efficient.

NOTE: It’s important to note that the Spitfire X extruder does not support complete cartridge replacement. Therefore, it’s not possible to install complete cartridges on this extruder. Additionally, nozzles specifically designed for the Spitfire X extruder are not compatible with previous versions of Spitfire extruders.

Make sure to choose the correct version of the Spitfire X extruder based on your Delta WASP printer and keep these compatibility and nozzle replacement system details in mind when maintaining or upgrading your 3D printer.

SPITFIRE System – changing the cartridge

Here is a detailed procedure for changing the cartridge in the Spitfire System, applicable to both the Spitfire Red and Spitfire Black extruders (note that it is not compatible with the Spitfire X version):

STEP 1: PREPARATION

Before starting the cartridge replacement process, ensure that the extruder temperature is set to 200°C.  This temperature is important to facilitate cartridge removal.

STEP 2: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE CARTRIDGE

STEP 3: VERIFICATION AND CALIBRATION

After reaching the desired printing temperature, verify that the extruder functions correctly, and the new material is extruded without issues. Calibration is necessary to ensure precise printing and avoid collisions between the nozzle and the print bed.

SPITFIRE X System – change the nozzle

Here is a step-by-step procedure for changing the nozzle in the Spitfire X system:

STEP 1: TOOLS NEEDED

  • Make sure you have a 7mm hex wrench available, which will be used to unscrew the nozzle.

STEP 2: NOZZLE REPLACEMENT

  • Heat the extruder to 200°C.  This temperature is crucial to soften any material residue inside the nozzle and make it easier to remove.
  • Once the desired temperature is reached, use the 7mm hex wrench to unscrew the nozzle from the extruder. Do this carefully and counterclockwise.

CAUTION: When removing the nozzle, be careful not to force too much, as it may be tightened so as to prevent material leakage during printing.

  • Once you have unscrewed the nozzle, carefully remove it from the extruder.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE NEW NOZZLE

  • Get the new nozzle you want to install. Make sure it’s the correct size for your print project.
  • Place the new nozzle in the extruder. Make sure you insert it correctly and securely.
  • Use the 7mm hex wrench to screw the nozzle back in a clockwise direction. Make sure the nozzle is tight but without excessive force to avoid damage.

WARNING: When screwing the nozzle back on, make sure that it has reached the stop, i.e. that it is fully screwed and well seated in the extruder.

  • Once you’ve secured the new nozzle, check that it’s properly installed and tightened.

STEP 4: VERIFY

  • After changing the nozzle, check that the extruder is working properly and that the new nozzle is not leaking material during printing.

Change ZEN Extruder tool

Use slicing software that is not supported by the machine (Cura, Slic3r)

WASP technical support is unable to provide assistance with the configuration and optimization of profiles for slicing software other than the official one, which is Simplify3D.

From an open perspective, our technology is compatible with various slicing software such as Cura, Slic3r etc…. Here are some tips you can follow to set up these softwares:

CONFIGURE SOFTWARE: Download and install the desired slicing software on your computer. If possible, select your WASP printer as the configuration option. Alternatively, choose a generic configuration that approximates your printer’s specifications.

PRINTER SPECIFICATIONS: Gather the technical specifications of your WASP printer, such as nozzle diameter, maximum print size, and other key settings.

SETUP: Configure the slicing software according to your printer’s specifications and the manufacturer’s recommendations. This may take time and experimentation to achieve optimal results.

PRINT TESTS: Run print tests to make sure everything is working as expected. Carefully check the first layer, adhesion to the print bed, and overall print quality.

EXPERIMENTATION AND OPTIMIZATION: You may need to experiment with different settings in your slicing software for the best results. Edit one variable at a time and take note of changes in print quality.

Keep in mind that using unofficially supported slicing software can pose challenges and require experimentation for optimal results. In addition, WASP Technical Support will not be able to provide specific assistance for issues related to the use of unofficial slicing software.

Use machine-supported slicing software (SIMPLIFY3D)

WASP machines support Simplify3D as slicing software, and it is recommended, especially for those who are new to the machine, to use this slicer. Here’s how you can use it:

DOWNLOAD & INSTALLATION: First of all, make sure you have downloaded and installed Simplify3D on your computer. You can find the software on the developer’s website at https://www.simplify3d.com/

UPLOADING YOUR 3D MODEL: Launch Simplify3D and upload your 3D model to the workspace. You can do this by dragging the template file directly into the software window.

SETTING UP THE PRINT JOB: You can now start setting up the print job. This includes setting the type of material you’re using, nozzle temperature, print speed, and other specific settings. You can also use the specific profiles developed by WASP for each extruder and material, which you can find on the https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ website.

GCODE GENERATION: Once the print job is configured, click “Prepare to Print” to generate the Gcode file. This file will contain all the necessary instructions for your 3D printer to create the desired part.

PRINT: Finally, upload the Gcode file to your WASP printer and start the printing process. Be sure to follow the printer’s instructions carefully when loading and setting up.

Remember that Simplify3D also offers FAQs, video tutorials, and helpful guides on their https://www.simplify3d.com/ website, which can be very helpful in getting the most out of the software’s potential.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

How can i create an object similar to one seen on your website or communication?

The objects you see on our website and in our communications are often produced by third parties or made using specific 3D modeling and printing technologies. Technology and production techniques can vary greatly based on the specific applications and artists involved.

To make objects similar to the ones you’ve seen, you’ll want to gain skills  in 3D modeling and 3D printing. You can start by taking specialized training courses such as our Advanced 3D Printing Course, which offers in-depth training in advanced modeling, printing, and techniques.

Additionally, it’s important to be creative and experiment with your ideas to develop unique and personalized pieces. You can use 3D modeling software like Blender, Fusion 360, or Tinkercad to create your models and then use a 3D printer to materialize your creations.

What is the right setting to work with my extruder and material?

To get the best printing results with your extruder and material, we recommend that you use the optimized print profiles that we make available in the download section of our website. Be sure to select the correct profile for your specific extruder, verifying that the photo on the site matches the model you intend to print on.

You can find these print profiles here. By using our optimized profiles, you’ll have a solid foundation to start successfully printing your favorite material and achieve high-quality results.

Keep in mind that choosing the right setting can vary depending on a number of factors, including the type of material, the complexity of the part’s geometry, and your specific printing needs. Therefore, we recommend that you use our profiles as a starting point and make any adjustments or customizations according to your specific needs.

If you have any further questions or need assistance finding the right setting for your application, please do not hesitate to contact us. We’re here to help you get the best results with your printer and material.

The machine does not print a WASP-supported material well

WASP machines are designed to offer optimal performance with WASP certified materials. This choice was made to ensure the quality and reliability of the product for customers. If you’re having trouble printing a WASP-supported material, there are a few considerations to keep in mind:

STANDARD PROFILES: Make sure you are using the correct standard profile for the material you are using. The profiles are available in the download section of the WASP website and are specific to each extruder.

COMPLEX GEOMETRIES: Advanced materials may require some printing experience, especially when dealing with complex geometries. Make sure your 3D model and print settings are suitable for the specific material you’re using.

MATERIAL GUIDES: WASP provides material guides that provide detailed information on supported materials and best practices for printing. You can check out these guides to get more information about the material you’re using.

SPECIFIC COURSES: WASP also offers specific courses on printing advanced materials. These courses are designed to help you develop advanced skills in printing technical materials.

Remember that even if a material is supported by the machine, you may need to make some adaptations or gain experience in printing it, especially if it is advanced materials.

The machine only gives me problems with a certain G.code

If you’re having trouble with a specific .gcode file, there are a few guidelines to follow to ensure that the file is of good quality and doesn’t cause any problems for your machine. Here are some tips:

NO SPACE IN THE NAME: Make sure that the .gcode file name does not contain any spaces or special characters. Keep it simple and avoid spaces or symbols.

START WITH A STANDARD PROFILE: Always start with a standard print profile that matches your machine and material settings. Change only the settings you need. You can use the specific profiles developed by WASP for each extruder and material, which you can find on the https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ website.

BEWARE OF SCRIPTS: Some slicers allow the use of custom scripts or commands in the .gcode file. Make sure the scripts are correct and don’t cause any running issues.

DON’T CHANGE THE SETTINGS: Don’t  randomly change the settings in the .gcode file if you don’t fully understand the effect. This may cause printing problems.

REMOVE THE FLASH DRIVE/SD PROPERLY: When removing the USB stick or SD card from the computer, make sure to do so safely and avoid abruptly pulling out the storage media.

AVOID STRANGE COMMANDS: Check that the .gcode file does not contain any strange or unusual commands that could cause abnormal behavior in your printer.

DO NOT USE . GCODES CREATED FOR OTHER MACHINES OR EXTRUDERS: .GCODE files are specific to your machine and extruder. Do not use .gcode files created for other machines or configurations.

If you’ve followed these guidelines and you’re still having issues with your .gcode file, it may be helpful to contact a WASP operator for further support.

The machine does not print like another printer of another model that i already use.

FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) and LDM (Liquid Deposition Modeling) 3D printers are designed with specific mechanics and extrusion systems that can greatly influence the printing process and final results. It is important to keep in mind that each 3D printer has its own inherent characteristics, benefits, and limitations, which may differ from one model to another.

When comparing two different printers, it’s crucial to consider the following:

PRINT PROFILE SETUP: Each 3D printer requires a specific print profile that determines temperature, speed, layer height, and other critical variables settings for optimal results. Make sure that you have correctly configured the print profile for your printer according to the material and the type of object you want to print.

PRINTER SIZE: The size of the  printer affects the type and size of the objects you can print. Make sure that the printer is suitable for the size of your projects and that the settings are proportionate to the print bed.

TYPE OF MATERIALS: Different types of materials, such as PLA, ABS, PETG, etc., require specific settings to achieve high-quality printing results. Check that you are using the correct material for your printer and make sure that the settings are adapted to it.

MODEL GEOMETRY: The complexity and geometry of your model can affect the printing process. Verify that the model has been properly designed for 3D printing and that it does not contain any modeling errors.

MAINTENANCE: Make sure your printer is well-maintained and that all components are in good working order. Mechanical problems or the presence of material residue inside the extruder can adversely affect print quality.

USER EXPERIENCE: Learning how to use a new printer takes time and experience. Familiarize yourself with the operation of your printer, perform calibration tests, and gain experience in troubleshooting any issues that may arise during printing.

Difference between DELTA WASP INDUSTRIAL and DELTA WASP INDUSTRIAL 4.0

Delta’s WASP Industrial line of printers was developed to meet the challenges of printing technical materials in an insulated chamber that would allow for better isolation of the printing environment. In 2019, this line was improved and renamed Delta WASP Industrial 4.0 to meet Italian government requirements related to Industry 4.0 and to offer additional advanced features. Here are the main differences between the two models:

TOUCH SCREEN DISPLAY: The Delta WASP Industrial 4.0 features a touch screen display that makes it easy to interact with the printer and navigate menus.

WI-FI CONNECTION: The Delta WASP Industrial 4.0 supports Wi-Fi connection, allowing you to control and manage the printer from mobile devices or remotely through a wireless network.

HOT CHAMBER HEATING: This version of the printer offers a hot chamber heating system that can reach temperatures up to 70°C.  This is useful for printing technical materials that require a temperature-controlled environment.

HOT AND COLD TECHNOLOGY: Hot and Cold technology refers to the printer’s ability to handle both thermoplastic and cold materials. This versatility allows a wide range of materials to be used.

ON-BOARD TUTORIALS: The Delta WASP Industrial 4.0 offers built-in tutorials that guide users through calibration and printing procedures, making it easy to use the printer.

CONTINUOUS PELLET FEEDING SYSTEM: This feature is currently only present on the Delta WASP 3MT Industrial 4.0. It is a continuous pellet feeding system, which allows for continuous printing without interruptions due to material loading.

Auto-calibration

Auto-calibration is an automatic process that calibrates the flatness of the print bed, simplifying the adhesion of the first print layer. Here’s how to activate and perform auto-calibration on your WASP 3D printer:

NOTE:  This procedure is compatible with the following WASP printer models: 2040 T2, 2040 PRO, 3MT IND, IND 4.0 Line, IND X Line.

CAUTION: Auto-calibration must be initiated when both the build bed and extruder are already heated to the desired print temperatures.

CLEANING THE NOZZLE AND BUILD BED: Make sure the nozzle and build bed are clean and free of plastic residue or other impurities.

CONTACT NOZZLE PLACEMENT: With the printer turned off, gently position the nozzle so that it is in contact with the print bed.

TURNING ON THE PRINTER:  Turn on the printer and wait for the message “AUTOCALIB ENABLED” to appear on the display. If the message does not appear, you may need to warm up the extruder and clean the nozzle or print bed better.

START AUTO-CALIBRATION: Start the auto-calibration procedure as follows:

For 2040 T2, 2040 PRO and 4070 IND models:

  • Go to the main menu and select “PREPARE,” then “AUTOCALIB.”

For the Industrial 4.0 Line and the Industrial X Line

  • Go to the “PRINT” menu and select “AUTOCALIB.”

WAITING FOR HEATING : After starting the self-calibration, wait a few minutes for the extruder to reach the necessary temperature.

PERFORMING AUTO-CALIBRATION: The auto-calibration procedure will be performed automatically by the printer and will last a few minutes.

IMPORTANT NOTE: auto-calibration is activated by an electrical contact between the nozzle and the print bed. Make sure the print bed is conductive if it is different from the one supplied. If not, you will need to use the manual leveling procedure.

Free Zeta System INDUSTRIAL LINE 4.0 and INDUSTRIAL X LINE

The Free Z System is an important feature in WASP printers that allows you to shoot a print from a specific height. This is especially useful if you want to change material or color during printing or in case of unexpected interruptions. Here’s how to use the Free Z System:

MEASURE THE HEIGHT OF THE PREVIOUS LAYER:

  • First, you’ll need to measure the Z value (the height) of the last printed layer. You can do this by following these steps:
  • Access the menu: PREPARE / FREE Z SYSTEM.
  • Using the command arrows, slowly move the nozzle closer until it touches the previous printed layer.
  • When the nozzle is in contact, confirm by clicking “GO FOR GCODE.”

G-CODE FILE SELECTION:

  • You will now need to select the G-code file that contains instructions for resuming printing from a specific height.

WAIT FOR THE FILE TO LOAD:

  • The printer will start loading the G-code file. The length of this process can vary depending on the size and complexity of the file. Be patient while the printer completes loading.

RESUMPTION OF PRINTING:

  • Once the G-code file has been successfully uploaded, the printer will start printing from the corresponding layer at the specified height. This allows you to easily handle material changes or interruptions without having to restart the entire print.

Note: Keep in mind that this can take several minutes, depending on the height of the workpiece.

How the Resurrection System works

The Resurrection System is a feature in WASP printers that allows you to resume printing from where you left off due to a power outage. Here’s how it works:

SAVING PRINT COORDINATES: When the printer detects a power failure or any other situation that requires the print to stop, it will save the precise print coordinates to the point where the interruption occurred. These coordinates are saved in a file named “RESURR” in the directory of the original print file.

SELECTING THE  RESURR FILE: To resume printing where you left off, you will need to select the “RESURR” file from the printer’s memory or SD card.

WAITING FOR RESTART:  Once the “RESURR” file is selected, the printer will begin the restart process. During this process, the nozzle will be brought to a temperature of 100°C to avoid abrupt detachment from the workpiece.

AUTOMATIC AXIS HANDLING: After reaching the desired temperature, the printer’s motion axes will be automatically returned to the “home” position.

RESUME PRINTING: Once the nozzle and hotbed temperature reaches the temperature specified in the original print file (.gcode), printing will resume from the exact location where it left off. This process avoids defects or discontinuities in printing.

IMPORTANT NOTE: During the Resurrection process, if the nozzle remains in contact with the molded part, do not send the motion axes to the “home” position. The Resurrection procedure begins with heating the nozzle to 100°C to prevent damage to the molded part.

Load filament

Heat the extruder, through the menu > prepare > preheat PLA / ABS.

Removal: Once it reaches the proper temperature, manually extrude some material and then, pushing the filament driver lever down, pull the filament out from the extruder.

Replacement: With the extruder hot, insert the new filament, and manually rotate the black knob counterclockwise until the material is extruded.

Change WASP SPITFIRE Extruder

Here’s a step-by-step procedure on how to change the Wasp Spitfire extruder on your 3D printer:

STEP 1: TURN OFF THE PRINTER

  • Before starting any operation, make sure your 3D printer is turned off and disconnected from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.

STEP 2: UNPLUG THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • At the top of the extruder, locate the RJ45 connector and unplug it. This connector is used for electrical communication with the extruder.

STEP 3: REMOVE THE NYLON BOWDEN

  • At the top of the extruder, you will find a quick coupling for the nylon tube with a loop. Press down on the quick coupling ring and simultaneously pull up on the nylon tube.

STEP 4: UNSCREW THE SCREWS AND REMOVE THE EXTRUDER

  • Underneath the aluminum plate that supports the extruder, you’ll find two fixing screws. Using a 2.5mm Allen key, unscrew these two screws. Once removed, you can pull up to completely remove the extruder from the printer.

STEP 5: INSERT THE NEW EXTRUDER

  • Take the new extruder you want to install and place it in the same location from which you just removed the previous extruder.

STEP 6: TIGHTEN THE SCREWS

  • Under the aluminum plate, screw the two screws back in to securely secure the new extruder in place. Be sure to tighten the screws properly, but avoid applying excessive force so as not to damage the new extruder.

STEP 7: INSERT THE NYLON BOWDEN

  • Reconnect the 6 mm diameter nylon tubing into the extruder quick coupling. Make sure it’s securely inserted and locked in place.

STEP 8: RECONNECT THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • Reconnect the RJ45 connector that you disconnected earlier, making sure to pass it over the rubber bands.

STEP 9: TURN ON THE PRINTER AND CALIBRATE THE PRINT BED

  • Turn on the printer and proceed to calibrate the print bed. This will ensure that the new extruder setup is properly leveled and that printing can be done accurately.

Modify height (calibration)

The height (often called Z max) of the printer is the value that defines the distance between the nozzle and the print bed when it is in its zero position (home).
The height is part of the calibration values ​​of the machine and the right value is essential for good operation.

When the machine is turned on, in the monitoring screen it is possible to see among the values ​​shown that of the height saved in the machine (indicated as Z).

As the height value changes, the following scenarios may occur:

To manually change the height value, each printer is equipped with a dedicated command within the PREPARE menu, depending on the version it can be called:

  • Modify height;
  • Modification Z max (Set Z max).

The procedure for changing the Z max depends on the machine and firmware version.

  • Position the print bed and clean the nozzle;
  • Send the printer to zero position (autohome);
  • Use the command Prepare> Modify height (or Set Z max).

The screen allows you to choose a scale value at the top (between 10 mm, 1 mm, 0.1 mm) and consequently to go down by that value on the Z axis.

  1. With scale value 10, turn the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 20 mm from the printing surface;
  2. Click the knob once to select the scale value at 10mm;
  3. With scale value 1, rotate the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 2 mm from the printing surface;
  4. Click the knob once to select the scale value at 0.1 mm;
  5. With a scale value of 0.1, turn the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 1 mm from the printing surface;
  6. Click the knob twice to activate the “SAVE Z” item;
  7. Turn the knob to display “OK”;
  8. Click to confirm and save the new Z max;
  9. The machine will exit the command and will automatically go to the Home position.

If necessary, complete the calibration with the Prepare> Manual leveling command, adjusting the plane with uniform distance in all positions.

WASP ZEN Extruder calibration

The calibration of the ZEN extruder is based on the vernier principle, similar to that used in a common caliber. This process involves two overlapping grids with slightly different cell sizes, where each line represents one-tenth of a millimeter (0.1 mm). The position of the second extruder (T1) relative to the first (T0) will be determined by the coordinate in which the two grids precisely overlap.

HERE’S HOW TO CALIBRATE THE ZEN EXTRUDER:

  • Print the calibration file containing the overlapping grids.
  • Check which coordinate corresponds to a perfect alignment of the grids. For example, if the grids perfectly match the x=4 and y=3 coordinates (Figure 2), you will need to add 0.4 mm to the x coordinate and 0.3 mm to the y coordinate to get the correct calibration.
  • Record the found calibration values and add them (or subtract, if they are negative) to the existing values in your printer’s “Menu>Advanced>Motion>Extr Settings” menu.
  • After setting the new calibration values, relaunch the print file. You will notice that the coordinate will now correspond to x=0 and y=0 (figure 3), indicating a correct calibration.

Calibrating the ZEN extruder is an important step in ensuring that both printer extruders are aligned accurately. Follow these steps carefully and add the correct calibration values to get accurate print results.

Filament breaks

Whether the filament breaks can be affected by various factors, including the quality of the filament and environmental conditions. Here are some considerations:

FILAMENT QUALITY: Filament quality is a critical factor in preventing breakage. Low-quality filaments or filaments with defects may have weak spots or impurities that increase the likelihood of breakage. Make sure you’re using high-quality filaments from reputable suppliers.

EXPOSURE TO SUN AND MOISTURE: Prolonged exposure to the sun or moisture can affect the structure of the filament. Moisture can absorb into the filament, weakening its integrity and making it more brittle. Always store the filament spool inside the original bag or in an airtight container to protect it from these environmental conditions.

FILAMENT MATERIAL: The type of filament material can affect its breaking strength. Some materials, such as PLA, may be more brittle than others, such as ABS or PETG. Choose the filament material according to your specific printing needs.

HANDLING DURING PRINTING: When printing, make sure that the filament flows freely without friction or twisting, and that there are no contact points or corners that are too tight that could cause tension and breakage of the filament.

Replacement nozzle and PTFE tube (in the first extruder model)

Replacing the PTFE nozzle and tubing on extruders purchased before 2016 is a useful procedure to vary the diameter of the material exit hole to allow for faster prints with higher layer thicknesses. Here are the detailed steps to do this:

STEP 1: SET THE NOZZLE TEMPERATURE

  • Turn on the printer and set the nozzle temperature to 200°C.  To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Nozzle > Temperature > 200°C.

STEP 2: REMOVE THE EXISTING NOZZLE

  • Use a 5mm wrench to unscrew the nozzle from the extruder. Be sure to protect your hands with a cloth or gloves to avoid burns.

STEP 3: REMOVE THE PTFE TUBING

  • Screw a grub screw into the top of the steel barrel to push the PTFE tube up.
  • Using pliers, remove the PTFE tube from the bottom of the extruder.

STEP 4: INSERT THE NEW PTFE HOSE AND NOZZLE

  • Turn off the printer.
  • Insert the conical part of the nozzle into the new PTFE tube.
  • Remove the grub screw from the top of the steel barrel and screw the nozzle until it matches the extruder stop.
  • Screw the grub screw back into the top of the steel barrel until it matches the stop to lock the PTFE tube.

STEP 5: HEAT THE NOZZLE AGAIN

  • Turn on the printer and heat the nozzle to make the nozzle tighten again.

STEP 6: LEVELING THE BUILD BED

  • After warming up the nozzle, proceed to level the print bed as you normally would.

NOTE: If you have nozzles without a tapered end, you may not need to replace the PTFE tubing, unless technical support has specifically recommended it.

Extruder cleaning

OPERATION A

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Load the extruder with filament as usual.
  • Turn the thread puller knob counterclockwise to start extrusion and clockwise to retract the filament. Alternate these motions, emphasizing extrusion, until you see clean filament coming out of the nozzle.

OPERATION B

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • If the wire struggles to be extruded, there may be a small particle or blockage in the nozzle. Use a fine needle to gently remove these particles from the nozzle.

OPERATION C

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Press down on the quick coupling ring located at the top of the extruder.
  • Slide the connecting tube between the extruder and the thread puller upwards.
  • Insert the PLA filament directly from the top into the hole of the extruder and manually push it down until the extrusion begins.

OPERATION D

  • Set the nozzle temperature to the material extrusion temperature (e.g. 200°C for PLA and 240°C for ABS). To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Control > Temperature > Nozzle > set the temperature.
  • Press down on the quick coupling ring located at the top of the extruder.
  • Slide the connecting tube between the extruder and the thread puller upwards.
  • Insert a steel wire with a diameter of 2 mm inside the steel barrel of the extruder.

Push the steel wire down until you remove any blockages or material residue that may be clogging the steel barrel.

The plastic on my new SPITFIRE Extruder looks worn

The plastic used for the outer shell of SPITFIRE extruders is designed to be highly resistant to high temperatures and wear, thanks to the use of a technopolymer filled with a significant amount of fiberglass (50%). This gives the material remarkable durability and resistance to high temperatures, allowing the extruders to work for long periods without melting or deformation, even during repeated assembly and disassembly on the machine.

However, this special composition of the plastic can affect the external appearance of the extruder. The matte, uneven finish, with some lighter areas, is the result of the varying density of the fiberglass on the surface of the material. This is a normal appearance and does not affect the functionality or performance of the extruder.

In short, even though the outer plastic of the SPITFIRE extruder may look worn or have an uneven finish, it is designed this way to ensure long life and resistance to high temperatures, which is essential for 3D printing applications.

Replacing the thread puller

Here is a step-by-step procedure for replacing the thread puller on your 3D printer, following the video tutorial provided:

STEP 1: TURN OFF THE PRINTER

  • Before starting any maintenance, make sure your 3D printer is completely turned off and disconnected from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.

STEP 2: PULL OUT THE NYLON TUBE

  • Press down on the quick-release ring located on top of the extruder.

STEP 3: UNPLUG THE 8-PIN CONNECTOR

  • Detach the 8-pin connector located on the wiring harness between the thread puller and the top of the printer.

STEP 4: CUT THE CABLE TIES

  • Using scissors or a wire cutter, cut the plastic cable ties that hold the thread puller cables in place.

STEP 5: REPLACE THE 3 RUBBER BANDS

  • Remove the 3 green/clear rubber bands from the old thread puller.
  • Replace the old thread puller with the new one.
  • Insert the green/transparent rubber bands into the three pins located at the top of the new thread puller.

STEP 6: INSERT THE NYLON TUBE

  • Insert the nylon tube with a diameter of 6 mm into the quick coupling located above the extruder.

STEP 7: RECONNECT THE 8-PIN CONNECTOR

  • Reconnect the 8-pin connector to the wiring harness between the thread puller and the top of the printer.

STEP 8: REPLACE THE CABLE TIES AND CABLES

  • Reposition the plastic ties and cables as they were before maintenance.

The thread puller jerks or does not turn

If your 3D printer’s thread puller jerks or doesn’t spin properly, follow these steps to fix the problem:

STEP 1: CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED

  • If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the molten filament may have difficulty flowing properly, causing a blockage in the thread puller’s feeding system. Perform a manual leveling of the print bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust residue that may hinder proper operation.

STEP 2: CHECK THE PRINT SETTINGS

  • LAYER HEIGHT: Make sure the layer height is set correctly. If it is too high, the material may have difficulty being extruded. The maximum allowable height is half the diameter of the nozzle used for printing.
  • TEMPERATURE: Check that the temperature is set correctly for the material you are printing. If it is too low, the filament may have difficulty being extruded.
  • PRINT SPEED: Check the print speed and make sure it is within the recommended parameters. If the print is too fast, it may cause problems for the thread puller to extrude the material properly.

NOTE: It is advisable to always start with the basic print profiles available in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website, as these profiles are optimized for the specific material and printer.

STEP 3: CHECK EXTRUDER CLEANLINESS

  • Make sure that the nozzle is well cleaned and that the material is extruded evenly. If necessary, clean the extruder (see chapter “Extruder cleaning”)

STEP 4: CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER

  • Make sure the thread puller’s power cord is properly connected to the printer. In case it is not connected, connect the cable while the printer is turned off.
  • Turn on the printer and send an autohome. Check that the thread taker control is active. To do this, go to the printer’s menu and select: Menu > Prepare > Movement > 1mm > Extruder.
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller does not idle but is well connected to the motor shaft. To do this, press and hold the thread puller trigger while turning the black knob. Then, screw in the M3 grub screw until it matches the flat surface of the motor shaft, making sure the toothed part is aligned with the filament passage.
  • Check if the thread puller motor fan is running. If it is not active, there may be a problem with the fan. If this is the case, it is advisable to contact technical support for a diagnosis and possible replacement of the fan.

The double-pull thread puller jerks or does not turn

If your 3D printer’s thread puller jerks or doesn’t spin properly, follow these steps to fix the problem:

STEP 1: CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED

  • If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the molten filament may have difficulty flowing properly, causing a blockage in the thread puller’s feeding system. Perform a manual leveling of the print bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust residue that may hinder proper operation.

STEP 2: CHECK THE PRINT SETTINGS

  • LAYER HEIGHT: Make sure the layer height is set correctly. If it is too high, the material may have difficulty being extruded. The maximum allowable height is half the diameter of the nozzle used for printing.
  • TEMPERATURE: Check that the temperature is set correctly for the material you are printing. If it is too low, the filament may have difficulty being extruded.
  • PRINT SPEED: Check the print speed and make sure it is within the recommended parameters. If the print is too fast, it may cause problems for the thread puller to extrude the material properly.

NOTE: It is advisable to always start with the basic print profiles available in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website, as these profiles are optimized for the specific material and printer.

STEP 3: CHECK EXTRUDER CLEANLINESS

  • Make sure that the nozzle is well cleaned and that the material is extruded evenly. If necessary, clean the extruder (see chapter “Extruder cleaning”)

The extruder goes down at the end of the print

The situation where the extruder goes down at the end of the print can be problematic and cause damage to the printed part. Here’s how to deal with this situation:

STEP 1: DISABLE THE “M84” COMMAND

  • Log in to your slicing software (e.g., Cura, PrusaSlicer, Simplify3D) and open the print profile you are using.
  • Look for the “ending scripts” section within the print profile settings. This section contains the commands that are automatically executed at the end of each print.
  • Find the “M84” command within the “ending scripts” section and disable it by adding a semicolon (;) before the command, as shown in the example: “; M84″.
  • Saves changes to the print profile.

Please note: After about 10 minutes, even if the “M84” command has been disabled, the motors will still deactivate automatically.

Error MINTEMP / MAXTEMP

The “MINTEMP” or “MAXTEMP” error on a 3D printer is associated with extruder temperature issues. Here’s what you can do to fix this:

STEP 1: CHECK THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • Check that the extruder’s power RJ45 connector is properly connected to the extruder. Make sure it is well inserted and that there are no loose joints or faulty connections.

STEP 2: RESTART THE PRINTER

  • After checking and, if necessary, replacing the RJ45 connector, restart the printer. This will allow the system to perform a new control on the extruder temperature.

STEP 3: CHECK THE TEMPERATURE OF THE EXTRUDER

  • When heating the extruder, check that the temperature gradually increases and reaches the desired value without error. If you notice that the temperature is not reached or fluctuates significantly, there may be a problem with the extruder’s temperature sensor or heater.

STEP 4: CONTACT TECHNICAL SUPPORT

  • If, despite the attempts described above, the error persists, it is recommended that you contact Technical Support as you need a more thorough diagnosis to determine the specific cause and resolve the issue.

The surface of the workpiece is spongy

A spongy print surface can be the result of several problems in your 3D printer or printing process. Here are a number of things you can do to resolve this issue:

VERIFY THE G.CODE FILE:

  • Make sure that the Gcode file you generated by the slicing software is correct and error-free. Check that there are no modeling defects in the STL file, such as open edges or non-manifold surfaces, that could cause problems when printing.

VERIFY THE SLICING PARAMETERS:

  • Check that the parameters in the slicing software are correct. Make sure the nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-step per mm are set correctly according to the specifications of your printer and the material used.

CHECK THE EXTRUDER:

  • Check that the extruder’s power RJ45 connector is properly connected to the extruder.
  • Check that the hoses connecting the thread puller and extruder are well connected and have no clogging or dirt inside them.
  • Make sure the filament has been loaded correctly and has made it all the way to the melting zone inside the nozzle.
  • Check that the extruder’s cooling fan is working properly.

CHECK THE LEVELING OF THE PRINT BED:

  • If the nozzle is too close to the print bed, the molten filament may have difficulty coming out, causing a blockage in the thread puller and motor gear. Perform a manual leveling of the build bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust or debris that may be causing tension during printing.

CHECK THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER:

  • Make sure the wire puller’s power cord is securely connected to the printer’s motherboard. If necessary, connect the cable while the printer is turned off.
  • Check that the thread taker control is active in the printer menu: Menu > Prepare > Movement > 1mm > Extruder.
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller is well connected to the motor shaft and that it is not idling. You can do this by pressing and holding the thread puller pliers, leaving the system unlocked, and turning the black knob. Then screw the M3 grub screw onto the flat surface of the motor shaft, making sure the toothed part is aligned with the filament passage.
  • Check that the thread puller motor fan is running. If that doesn’t work, it’s a good idea to contact technical support.

Printing is staggered

If your print is offset, it may be due to lost footsteps in motion or other problems in the printing process. Here’s how you can fix this:

CHECK THE SPEED AND ACCELERATION IN THE GCODE:

  • Check the print speed in the Gcode file. Speeds that are too high can cause the belts to slip around the pulleys and lose steps. Make sure the print speed is set appropriately for your printer and the material used.
  • It also verifies the accelerations in the movements. Accelerations of more than 6000 mm/s² may cause belt slippage. Check that the acceleration settings are appropriate for your printer. Keep in mind that these figures may vary depending on the model of your printer.

CHECK THE EXTRUSION FLOW:

  • Controls the percentage of material flow set in the slicing software. A flow rate greater than 100% can cause excessive material build-up during printing, causing collisions between layers. Make sure the flow percentage is set correctly for the material you are using.

CHECK THE EXTRUDER NOZZLE:

  • Check that the extruder nozzle is properly attached. If the nozzle is unscrewed, it may cause bumps during printing. Make sure it is tightly screwed in and in the correct position.

The printer makes noise

The 3D printer can make noises during printing, and these noises can have several causes. Here are some things you need to do to identify and fix your noise problem:

COOLING FAN:

  • Check the cooling fan on the extruder. If it is set to maximum speed, it may be noisy. From the slicing software, adjust the fan speed according to your needs. A slower speed may reduce noise without compromising print quality.
  • Make sure the fan propellers are intact and that they are not dirty or clogged with print residue or dust. If this is the case, turn off the printer and very carefully clean any debris or dust from the propellers or fan body.

NOISE LEVEL OF THE HANDLING AXES:

  • Make sure that the noise is not coming from the cooling fan on the extruder. If so, follow the directions above.
  • Check the smoothness of the pads on the moving axes by sliding them slowly with constant movements from top to bottom and vice versa. If there is friction and abnormal noise, you may need to contact technical support for maintenance.
  • Check the correct smoothness of the belt return bearings, which are located at the bottom of the slide rails. If the bearings are worn or damaged, they may be the cause of the noise.
  • Check the teeth of the belts. If you notice any expansion between the teeth of the belt or pinching, it may cause noise during printing. If so, you should replace the belt.

LOSS OF MOTOR STEPS:

  • Check to see if the printer’s motors are overheating during printing. Excessive overheating can cause loss of steps. Make sure the motors are properly cooled and are not clogged with dust or debris.
  • Check that the pulleys are firmly fixed on the motor shafts. Pulleys slipping on the shaft can cause lost steps.
  • Make sure the motor mount is stable and doesn’t move during printing.

EXTRUDER SHOCKS:

  • Check the leveling of the print bed. Keep a distance of about 0.1 mm between the nozzle and the print bed (thickness of an 80g A4 sheet).
  • Check the size of the print file. If the file exceeds the maximum print volume size, it may hit the walls of the printer. Set the correct parameters in the slicing software. (Starting with F20_rev6, F21_rev3, and F30_rev4 firmware, there is a software limitation.)
  • Check to see if any move plug-ins are installed when printing. Sometimes, these plug-ins can cause shocks. Make sure that the sum of the part width and the value of the plug-in does not exceed the maximum printable diameter. (Starting with F20_rev6, F21_rev3, and F30_rev4 firmware, there is a software limitation.)
  • Check that the extruder nozzle is securely fastened and is not unscrewed.

Failure to extrude filament

Not extrusion of filament in a 3D printer can be caused by several issues. Here are some checks and solutions to address this issue:

GCODE VERIFICATION:

  • Make sure that the STL file used to generate the Gcode has no modeling defects, such as non-solid surfaces or geometry issues. Use 3D modeling software such as Blender or MeshLab to correct any defects in the model.

VERIFICATION OF SLICING PARAMETERS:

  • Control parameters in the slicing software, such as nozzle diameter, filament diameter, material flow, extrusion temperature, and E-steps per millimeter. Make sure they are configured correctly for your extruder and the type of filament you are using.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE EXTRUDER:

  • Make sure the extruder power cord is securely connected to the extruder. If it is not properly connected, do so with the printer turned off.
  • Check that the hoses connecting the thread puller to the extruder are well connected and free of clogging or dirt. You can remove the hose and inspect it for any blockages or obstructions.
  • Make sure the filament is properly fed into the melting zone inside the nozzle. Check to see if the filament is stuck or caught inside the extruder.

CHECKING THE LEVELING OF THE BUILD BED:

  • Controls the leveling of the print bed. If the nozzle is too close to the flat, the filament may have difficulty coming out, causing the thread puller’s gear and motor to become blocked. Manually level the build bed and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust or debris.

CHECKING THE OPERATION OF THE THREAD PULLER:

  • Make sure the power cord of the thread puller is securely connected. If it isn’t, connect the cable with the printer turned off.
  • Make sure the thread taker control is active in the printer’s menu (menu/prepare/movement/1mm/extruder).
  • Check that the black knob of the thread puller is securely connected to the motor shaft. You can do this by pressing and holding the thread puller pliers and turning the knob. Make sure that the M3 grub screw is screwed onto the flat surface of the motor shaft, keeping the toothed part centered with the filament passage.
  • Check that the thread puller motor fan is working properly. If the fan is not running, you may need to contact technical support for repair or replacement of the motor.

FILAMENT CONTROL:

  • Make sure the filament is of good quality and has no knots or imperfections.
  • Check that the filament has not expired, as the old filament may be more susceptible to clogging.
  • Check the humidity of the print material, particularly if it is moisture-sensitive filaments. Absorbed moisture can adversely affect print quality, causing problems such as burrs, blemishes, and changes in material properties.

TEMPERATURE CONTROL:

  • Check that the nozzle temperature is set correctly for the type of filament you are using. Too low a temperature can cause blockages.

What should i do if the material tends to wrinkle in the sharp parts?

Material wrinkling on sharp parts during 3D printing is a common problem caused by material shrinkage and built-up stresses.


FACTORS INFLUENCING MATERIAL SHRINKAGE:

  • CHOOSING THE RIGHT MATERIAL: Consider whether it is essential to use the current material for your print. Sometimes, there are versions of materials with less shrinkage. Choosing a material with different characteristics might solve the problem of ripple.
  • SHRINKAGE MANAGEMENT: Ripple is directly related to shrinkage that occurs during material cooling. You can consider using materials with a low shrinkage rate or adjust your print settings to minimize this effect.
  • MODEL ORIENTATION: Changes the orientation of the model in the printout. Examining the arrangement of objects in the print can help reduce wrinkling. Experiment with different angles and orientations to find the best solution.

To address this issue, you can take several steps depending on the goals of your print:

IF YOU ARE PRINTING A PART WITH MECHANICAL PRECISION:

  • LOWER THE LAYER HEIGHT: Reduce the layer height when printing. This can improve accuracy and reduce the rippled effect on sharp parts.
  • INCREASE COOLING FANS: Increase the speed or intensity of the cooling fans on your 3D printer. This helps to cool the material more quickly and reduce tensions.
  • REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY: Reduce the temperature of the extruder slightly. This can help reduce material shrinkage.
  • REDUCE SPEED: Decrease the print speed. Printing more slowly can allow the material to settle more evenly and reduce tensions.

IF YOU ARE PRINTING FOR AESTHETIC APPEARANCE:

  • INCREASE FLOW: Increases the flow of material during printing. This can help to better fill in the sharp parts and reduce the frizzy effect.

IF THE PROBLEM PERSISTS:

  • LOWER THE LAYER HEIGHT: If the problem continues, further consider lowering the layer height to achieve greater accuracy.
  • INCREASE IN COOLING FANS: Keep experimenting with cooling fans. Increased cooling can often improve the aesthetic appeal of printed parts.
  • REDUCE THE TEMPERATURE SLIGHTLY: If material shrinkage is still an issue, you can further reduce the temperature of the extruder.
  • REDUCE SPEED: Reduce the print speed to allow for greater accuracy in sharp parts.

By experimenting with these settings and taking appropriate measures, you can improve the quality of your printed parts and reduce wrinkling on sharp parts. The best solution will depend on your specific printing needs and the material used.

The workpiece does not stick to the print bed

If the printed part does not adhere properly to the print bed, there are several measures you can take to improve adhesion:

LEVELING THE BUILD BED: Make sure the build bed is properly leveled. Follow the recommended leveling procedure for your 3D printer to ensure that the first layer is even and well-fitting to the bed.

PREPARING THE PRINT SURFACE: You can apply a layer of spray glue or stick glue to create an adhesive surface on the print bed. Be sure to apply a thin, even layer. This can help improve the adhesion of the first layer of your model.

TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT: Check that the temperature of the nozzle and heatbed is set correctly according to the material you are using. Consult the filament manufacturer’s technical specifications for recommended temperatures. Often, slightly increasing the temperature of the build bed can improve adhesion.

USING ADHESIVE SUBSTRATES: Some people prefer to use adhesive substrates such as Kapton tape, blue painter’s tape, or BuildTak surfaces. These substrates can greatly improve the adhesion of the material to the build bed.

USING A RAFT OR BRIM: If the problem persists, you can consider using a “raft” or “brim.” These are additional structures that are printed underneath your model and provide a larger surface area for adhesion to the build bed.

CLEANING THE PRINT BED: Make sure the build bed is clean and free of any previous filament residue or other impurities. You can clean the build bed with isopropyl alcohol or soap and water.

EXPERIMENT WITH SLICING SETTINGS: You can also experiment with your software’s slicing settings. For example, you can increase the “first layer extrusion width” or adjust the height of the first layer to improve adhesion.

Try these solutions one at a time until you can achieve the desired adhesion for your molded parts. Sometimes, a bit of experimentation is needed to find the ideal settings for your environment and print material.

The machine doesn’t print my part well

3D printing can be a complex process, and achieving perfect results requires attention to various details. Here are some steps you can follow to deal with this situation:

CHECK YOUR SLICER SETTINGS: Make sure you are using the slicer settings that are in accordance with your machine. You can find our official press profiles on our website. These profiles have been optimized to work best with our printers.

CHECK MODEL GEOMETRY: Check that your 3D  model has geometry that is suitable for 3D printing. It is important that the model is well-designed, with no gaps, holes in the surface of the model, or geometric errors that could cause problems when printing.

Please note that WASP cannot guarantee positive results for projects that are not compatible with printing technology.

CLEANING THE EXTRUDER: A clean extruder is essential for proper printing. Check that the extruder is free of debris or jammed filaments. Periodic cleaning of the extruder can help avoid extrusion problems.

USE THE PROPER PRINTING MATERIAL: Make sure you are using the right printing material for your needs. Each material has its own specific characteristics and requirements, so choose the material that best suits your project and the printer you use.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

The machine does not print well a material that is not supported by WASP

We understand the challenges that can arise during 3D printing, especially when using complex materials or geometries. However, it is important to note that Delta WASP printers have been designed and tested to work with materials that we certify. This choice was made to ensure the quality and reliability of our products.

In view of this, we cannot provide specific print profiles or detailed assistance for the use of materials that are not certified by WASP. In addition, we do not take responsibility for non-conforming results on finished parts or for the behavior of printers with such materials.

However, that doesn’t mean we’re disinterested in your results. To help you get the most out of your printer and the material you’re using, here are some steps you can follow:

USE BASIC PROFILES: Start with the basic print profiles we provide. These can be easily found in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website. You can select the extruder or printer model you have and make adjustments to suit your specific needs.

PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Some advanced materials require some printing experience, especially when it comes to complex geometries. Experiments and practice can help you better understand how to achieve optimal results.

MATERIAL GUIDES: Check out our material guides, if available. These guides contain useful information on how to deal with specific materials and solve common problems.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

We are here to support you in your 3D printing experience and to answer your questions. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support team.

The machine does not print this part well with this material

If you’re having trouble printing a part with a certain material, it’s important to perform a series of checks and considerations to achieve better printing results. Here are some steps to follow:

SUITABLE MATERIAL: Check that the material you are using is suitable for your application. Different materials have different properties, such as printing temperature, strength, and flexibility. Make sure you’re using a material that’s compatible with your project.

Some materials can absorb moisture or deteriorate over time, which can affect print quality. Check that the material is not degraded.

CHECK MODEL GEOMETRY: Check that your 3D  model has geometry that is suitable for 3D printing. It is important that the model is well-designed, with no gaps, holes in the surface of the model, or geometric errors that could cause problems when printing.

Please note that WASP cannot guarantee positive results for projects that are not compatible with printing technology.

CHECK YOUR SLICER SETTINGS: Make sure you are using the slicer settings that are in accordance with your machine. You can find our official press profiles on our website. These profiles have been optimized to work best with our printers.

CLEAN EXTRUDER: Check that the printer extruder is clean and free of material residue or obstructions. Clean the nozzle if necessary and make sure the filament flows freely.

PROPER MECHANICAL OPERATION: Check that your printer is in good mechanical condition. Check that all belts are properly tightened, that there are no damaged components, and that the axles are moving smoothly.

USE BASIC PROFILES: Start with the basic print profiles we provide. These can be easily found in the downloads section https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ of our website. You can select the extruder or printer model you have and make adjustments to suit your specific needs.

PRINTING EXPERIENCE: Some advanced materials require some printing experience, especially when it comes to complex geometries. Experiments and practice can help you better understand how to achieve optimal results.

MATERIAL GUIDES: Check out our material guides, if available. These guides contain useful information on how to deal with specific materials and solve common problems.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

We are here to support you in your 3D printing experience and to answer your questions. If you have any further questions or need assistance, please do not hesitate to contact our technical support team.

What is the right setting to work with my part?

We understand that achieving optimal results when 3D printing can be a challenge, especially when it comes to specific parts or particular materials. However, it is important to note that WASP Technical Support does not provide services for the development of optimized print profiles for individual products.

However, we want to offer solutions to help you achieve your printing goals. Here are some options available to you:

OPTIMIZATION PATH: You can consider the option of a customized optimization path with WASP’s experts. This can be accomplished in the form of a tailor-made course or a specific printing service. Along the way, you’ll work closely with our experts to develop the ideal settings for your specific part or material.

BASIC RESOURCES: To get started, you can check out the  basic print profiles we provide for our printers. These profiles can serve as a starting point and can be customized to suit your needs.

PERSONAL EXPERIMENTS: The printing experience is a continuous learning process. Experiment with the settings and test to see which ones work best for your specific case.

GENERAL SUPPORT: Our technical support team is available to answer your general questions about 3D printing and our printers. While we can’t develop specific profiles, we can offer advice on how to deal with certain issues or challenges.

We want you to get the most out of your 3D printing experience, and we’re here to provide the support you need. If you would like more information about optimization paths or have specific questions, we encourage you to contact our team to discuss your options.

The machine does not print well with the settings stated in the data sheet (e.g. speed)

It is important to emphasize that the specifications stated in the technical data sheet of our machine represent limit values and not absolute guarantees for every type of printing or processing. These values are provided for reference and may vary based on various factors, including the material used, the complexity of the part geometry, and other printing parameters.

For example, high-speed printing may only be possible with certain materials and parts that have relatively simple geometries. Optimizing print profiles for production speed is a complex process that requires experience and knowledge.

If you’re interested in learning how to optimize a print profile for production speed or have questions about settings specific to your application, we recommend that you consider taking our Advanced 3D Printing course. This course is designed to deepen your understanding of 3D printing and to hone your skills in managing print settings. You can find more details about the course and how to participate here.

We’re here to give you the support and resources you need to get the best results from your machine; So, don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions or need assistance specific to your application.

Spitfire Extruder: RED or BLACK?

The difference between the SPITFIRE red and black extruders lies in the feeding resistance voltage:

  • WASP SPITFIRE BLACK Extruder: Operates at 12V.
  • WASP SPITFIRE RED Extruder: Operates at 24V.

Each WASP 3D printer model is compatible with a specific SPITFIRE type:

  • WASP SPITFIRE BLACK Extruder: (12V): Compatible with Delta WASP 2040, Delta WASP 2040 Turbo, Delta WASP 4070, Delta WASP 60100.
  • WASP SPITFIRE RED Extruder: (24V): Compatible with Delta WASP 2040 PRO, Delta WASP 2040 T2, Delta WASP 4070 IND, Delta WASP 2040 IND, Delta WASP 3MT IND.

Make sure to use the correct extruder based on your WASP 3D printer model to ensure proper functionality and safety.

What’s the difference between Spitfire and Spitfire X Extruders?

The Spitfire X extruder represents the latest evolution in the Spitfire extruder line. Here are some technical details and important information about its compatibility:

GENERAL COMPATIBILITY: The Spitfire X extruder is available in two versions with different voltages: 12V and 24V. This voltage choice allows it to be used with various Delta WASP printers.

12V VERSIONS COMPATIBILITY: The 12V version of the Spitfire X extruder (the new version of the Spitfire Black extruder) is compatible with the following Delta WASP printers:

  • Delta WASP 2040
  • Delta WASP 2040 Turbo
  • Delta WASP 4070
  • Delta WASP 60100

24V VERSIONS COMPATIBILITY: The 24V version of the Spitfire X extruder (the new version of the Spitfire Red extruder) is compatible with the following Delta WASP printers:

  • Delta WASP 2040 PRO
  • Delta WASP 2040 T2
  • Delta WASP 4070 IND
  • Delta WASP 4070 IND 4.0
  • Delta WASP 2040 IND 4.0
  • Delta WASP 3MT IND

MAIN DIFFERENCE: The main innovation of the Spitfire X extruder compared to previous versions is its internal system. This system allows changing only the nozzle, which is made of hardened steel, rather than the entire cartridge. This simplifies the maintenance process and nozzle replacement, making the operation faster and more efficient.

NOTE: It’s important to note that the Spitfire X extruder does not support complete cartridge replacement. Therefore, it’s not possible to install complete cartridges on this extruder. Additionally, nozzles specifically designed for the Spitfire X extruder are not compatible with previous versions of Spitfire extruders.

Make sure to choose the correct version of the Spitfire X extruder based on your Delta WASP printer and keep these compatibility and nozzle replacement system details in mind when maintaining or upgrading your 3D printer.

SPITFIRE System – changing the cartridge

Here is a detailed procedure for changing the cartridge in the Spitfire System, applicable to both the Spitfire Red and Spitfire Black extruders (note that it is not compatible with the Spitfire X version):

STEP 1: PREPARATION

Before starting the cartridge replacement process, ensure that the extruder temperature is set to 200°C.  This temperature is important to facilitate cartridge removal.

STEP 2: REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF THE CARTRIDGE

STEP 3: VERIFICATION AND CALIBRATION

After reaching the desired printing temperature, verify that the extruder functions correctly, and the new material is extruded without issues. Calibration is necessary to ensure precise printing and avoid collisions between the nozzle and the print bed.

SPITFIRE X System – change the nozzle

Here is a step-by-step procedure for changing the nozzle in the Spitfire X system:

STEP 1: TOOLS NEEDED

  • Make sure you have a 7mm hex wrench available, which will be used to unscrew the nozzle.

STEP 2: NOZZLE REPLACEMENT

  • Heat the extruder to 200°C.  This temperature is crucial to soften any material residue inside the nozzle and make it easier to remove.
  • Once the desired temperature is reached, use the 7mm hex wrench to unscrew the nozzle from the extruder. Do this carefully and counterclockwise.

CAUTION: When removing the nozzle, be careful not to force too much, as it may be tightened so as to prevent material leakage during printing.

  • Once you have unscrewed the nozzle, carefully remove it from the extruder.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE NEW NOZZLE

  • Get the new nozzle you want to install. Make sure it’s the correct size for your print project.
  • Place the new nozzle in the extruder. Make sure you insert it correctly and securely.
  • Use the 7mm hex wrench to screw the nozzle back in a clockwise direction. Make sure the nozzle is tight but without excessive force to avoid damage.

WARNING: When screwing the nozzle back on, make sure that it has reached the stop, i.e. that it is fully screwed and well seated in the extruder.

  • Once you’ve secured the new nozzle, check that it’s properly installed and tightened.

STEP 4: VERIFY

  • After changing the nozzle, check that the extruder is working properly and that the new nozzle is not leaking material during printing.

Use slicing software that is not supported by the machine (Cura, Slic3r)

WASP technical support is unable to provide assistance with the configuration and optimization of profiles for slicing software other than the official one, which is Simplify3D.

From an open perspective, our technology is compatible with various slicing software such as Cura, Slic3r etc…. Here are some tips you can follow to set up these softwares:

CONFIGURE SOFTWARE: Download and install the desired slicing software on your computer. If possible, select your WASP printer as the configuration option. Alternatively, choose a generic configuration that approximates your printer’s specifications.

PRINTER SPECIFICATIONS: Gather the technical specifications of your WASP printer, such as nozzle diameter, maximum print size, and other key settings.

SETUP: Configure the slicing software according to your printer’s specifications and the manufacturer’s recommendations. This may take time and experimentation to achieve optimal results.

PRINT TESTS: Run print tests to make sure everything is working as expected. Carefully check the first layer, adhesion to the print bed, and overall print quality.

EXPERIMENTATION AND OPTIMIZATION: You may need to experiment with different settings in your slicing software for the best results. Edit one variable at a time and take note of changes in print quality.

Keep in mind that using unofficially supported slicing software can pose challenges and require experimentation for optimal results. In addition, WASP Technical Support will not be able to provide specific assistance for issues related to the use of unofficial slicing software.

Use machine-supported slicing software (SIMPLIFY3D)

WASP machines support Simplify3D as slicing software, and it is recommended, especially for those who are new to the machine, to use this slicer. Here’s how you can use it:

DOWNLOAD & INSTALLATION: First of all, make sure you have downloaded and installed Simplify3D on your computer. You can find the software on the developer’s website at https://www.simplify3d.com/

UPLOADING YOUR 3D MODEL: Launch Simplify3D and upload your 3D model to the workspace. You can do this by dragging the template file directly into the software window.

SETTING UP THE PRINT JOB: You can now start setting up the print job. This includes setting the type of material you’re using, nozzle temperature, print speed, and other specific settings. You can also use the specific profiles developed by WASP for each extruder and material, which you can find on the https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ website.

GCODE GENERATION: Once the print job is configured, click “Prepare to Print” to generate the Gcode file. This file will contain all the necessary instructions for your 3D printer to create the desired part.

PRINT: Finally, upload the Gcode file to your WASP printer and start the printing process. Be sure to follow the printer’s instructions carefully when loading and setting up.

Remember that Simplify3D also offers FAQs, video tutorials, and helpful guides on their https://www.simplify3d.com/ website, which can be very helpful in getting the most out of the software’s potential.

CUSTOM COURSES: If you need specific assistance or want to deepen your skills, consider the option of custom printing courses. These courses are designed to address your specific needs and can help you achieve your desired results.

How can i create an object similar to one seen on your website or communication?

The objects you see on our website and in our communications are often produced by third parties or made using specific 3D modeling and printing technologies. Technology and production techniques can vary greatly based on the specific applications and artists involved.

To make objects similar to the ones you’ve seen, you’ll want to gain skills  in 3D modeling and 3D printing. You can start by taking specialized training courses such as our Advanced 3D Printing Course, which offers in-depth training in advanced modeling, printing, and techniques.

Additionally, it’s important to be creative and experiment with your ideas to develop unique and personalized pieces. You can use 3D modeling software like Blender, Fusion 360, or Tinkercad to create your models and then use a 3D printer to materialize your creations.

What is the right setting to work with my extruder and material?

To get the best printing results with your extruder and material, we recommend that you use the optimized print profiles that we make available in the download section of our website. Be sure to select the correct profile for your specific extruder, verifying that the photo on the site matches the model you intend to print on.

You can find these print profiles here. By using our optimized profiles, you’ll have a solid foundation to start successfully printing your favorite material and achieve high-quality results.

Keep in mind that choosing the right setting can vary depending on a number of factors, including the type of material, the complexity of the part’s geometry, and your specific printing needs. Therefore, we recommend that you use our profiles as a starting point and make any adjustments or customizations according to your specific needs.

If you have any further questions or need assistance finding the right setting for your application, please do not hesitate to contact us. We’re here to help you get the best results with your printer and material.

The machine does not print a WASP-supported material well

WASP machines are designed to offer optimal performance with WASP certified materials. This choice was made to ensure the quality and reliability of the product for customers. If you’re having trouble printing a WASP-supported material, there are a few considerations to keep in mind:

STANDARD PROFILES: Make sure you are using the correct standard profile for the material you are using. The profiles are available in the download section of the WASP website and are specific to each extruder.

COMPLEX GEOMETRIES: Advanced materials may require some printing experience, especially when dealing with complex geometries. Make sure your 3D model and print settings are suitable for the specific material you’re using.

MATERIAL GUIDES: WASP provides material guides that provide detailed information on supported materials and best practices for printing. You can check out these guides to get more information about the material you’re using.

SPECIFIC COURSES: WASP also offers specific courses on printing advanced materials. These courses are designed to help you develop advanced skills in printing technical materials.

Remember that even if a material is supported by the machine, you may need to make some adaptations or gain experience in printing it, especially if it is advanced materials.

The machine only gives me problems with a certain G.code

If you’re having trouble with a specific .gcode file, there are a few guidelines to follow to ensure that the file is of good quality and doesn’t cause any problems for your machine. Here are some tips:

NO SPACE IN THE NAME: Make sure that the .gcode file name does not contain any spaces or special characters. Keep it simple and avoid spaces or symbols.

START WITH A STANDARD PROFILE: Always start with a standard print profile that matches your machine and material settings. Change only the settings you need. You can use the specific profiles developed by WASP for each extruder and material, which you can find on the https://www.3dwasp.com/download/ website.

BEWARE OF SCRIPTS: Some slicers allow the use of custom scripts or commands in the .gcode file. Make sure the scripts are correct and don’t cause any running issues.

DON’T CHANGE THE SETTINGS: Don’t  randomly change the settings in the .gcode file if you don’t fully understand the effect. This may cause printing problems.

REMOVE THE FLASH DRIVE/SD PROPERLY: When removing the USB stick or SD card from the computer, make sure to do so safely and avoid abruptly pulling out the storage media.

AVOID STRANGE COMMANDS: Check that the .gcode file does not contain any strange or unusual commands that could cause abnormal behavior in your printer.

DO NOT USE . GCODES CREATED FOR OTHER MACHINES OR EXTRUDERS: .GCODE files are specific to your machine and extruder. Do not use .gcode files created for other machines or configurations.

If you’ve followed these guidelines and you’re still having issues with your .gcode file, it may be helpful to contact a WASP operator for further support.

The machine does not print like another printer of another model that i already use.

FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) and LDM (Liquid Deposition Modeling) 3D printers are designed with specific mechanics and extrusion systems that can greatly influence the printing process and final results. It is important to keep in mind that each 3D printer has its own inherent characteristics, benefits, and limitations, which may differ from one model to another.

When comparing two different printers, it’s crucial to consider the following:

PRINT PROFILE SETUP: Each 3D printer requires a specific print profile that determines temperature, speed, layer height, and other critical variables settings for optimal results. Make sure that you have correctly configured the print profile for your printer according to the material and the type of object you want to print.

PRINTER SIZE: The size of the  printer affects the type and size of the objects you can print. Make sure that the printer is suitable for the size of your projects and that the settings are proportionate to the print bed.

TYPE OF MATERIALS: Different types of materials, such as PLA, ABS, PETG, etc., require specific settings to achieve high-quality printing results. Check that you are using the correct material for your printer and make sure that the settings are adapted to it.

MODEL GEOMETRY: The complexity and geometry of your model can affect the printing process. Verify that the model has been properly designed for 3D printing and that it does not contain any modeling errors.

MAINTENANCE: Make sure your printer is well-maintained and that all components are in good working order. Mechanical problems or the presence of material residue inside the extruder can adversely affect print quality.

USER EXPERIENCE: Learning how to use a new printer takes time and experience. Familiarize yourself with the operation of your printer, perform calibration tests, and gain experience in troubleshooting any issues that may arise during printing.

Free Zeta System

The Free Z System is an important feature in WASP printers that allows you to resume a print based on a known height. This is especially useful when you want to change material or color during printing, or when an unexpected interruption occurs. Here’s how to use the Free Z System:

MEASURING THE HEIGHT OF THE PREVIOUS LAYER:

  • First, you’ll need to measure the Z value (the height) of the last printed layer. You can do this by following these steps:
  • Access the printer menu: MENU / PREPARE / MOVE AXIS / 10,1,0.1 / Z AXIS.
  • Using these commands, slowly move the nozzle closer to the top of the previous layer until it touches the printed part.
  • Mark the value of Z when the nozzle touches the previous layer.

CONFIGURING THE FREE Z SYSTEM:

  • You can now configure the Free Z System. Follow these steps:
  • Access the menu: MENU / FREE Z SYSTEM.
  • Enter the Z value you previously measured.

G-CODE FILE SELECTION:

  • Once you have entered the value of Z, select the G-code file for your print.

FILE UPLOAD:

  • Wait for the G-code file to load. This process can take some time, especially if the file is very large or complex.

EXECUTION OF THE FREE Z SYSTEM:

  • Once the G-code file has been successfully uploaded, the printer will run the Free Z System and resume printing from the corresponding layer at the specified height. This allows you to change material or deal with interruptions without having to restart the entire print.

Note: Keep in mind that this can take several minutes, depending on the height of the workpiece.

Load filament

Heat the extruder, through the menu > prepare > preheat PLA / ABS.

Removal: Once it reaches the proper temperature, manually extrude some material and then, pushing the filament driver lever down, pull the filament out from the extruder.

Replacement: With the extruder hot, insert the new filament, and manually rotate the black knob counterclockwise until the material is extruded.

Leveling the build bed

Leveling the build bed is a crucial process for achieving high-quality 3D prints. Here’s how to do it step by step:

NOTE: Make sure the nozzle and print bed are heated to the recommended print temperatures before starting.

PRINTER PLACEMENT: Make sure the printer is placed on a flat, stable surface. This is crucial to ensure good leveling.

MENU ACCESS: Enter the printer’s menu. This procedure may vary depending on the printer model; Then, consult the manual specific to your device for step-by-step instructions.

NOZZLE & HOB HEATING: In the menu, go to the “Advanced” section and then “Temperatures”. Set the nozzle and build bed temperatures to the recommended settings for the material you are using. Wait for it to heat up completely.

MANUAL LEVELING: In the menu, go to the “Prepare” section and then “Manual Leveling”. Select “Location” to begin the leveling process.

FOLLOW THE SEQUENCE: Follow the sequence of steps carefully for leveling. Typically, the sequence is numbered as “01 02 03 01 02 03 00”. This indicates the order in which you will need to adjust the leveling points.

ADJUST THE DISTANCE BETWEEN NOZZLE AND BED: Use the knob at the base of the printer or the Phillips screws (in the case of the DeltaWASP 4070) on the heating plate to adjust the distance between the nozzle and the print bed. The goal is to achieve a distance of about 0.1 mm between the nozzle and the bed. Proper spacing is crucial for successful printing.

TEST WITH A SHEET OF PAPER: A good way to check the correct distance is to place a sheet of paper between the nozzle and the print bed. Try sliding it back and forth. The paper should slide without bending, but it should feel some slight friction. Keep adjusting until you reach this feeling.

Change WASP SPITFIRE Extruder

Here’s a step-by-step procedure on how to change the Wasp Spitfire extruder on your 3D printer:

STEP 1: TURN OFF THE PRINTER

  • Before starting any operation, make sure your 3D printer is turned off and disconnected from the power supply to ensure safety during the process.

STEP 2: UNPLUG THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • At the top of the extruder, locate the RJ45 connector and unplug it. This connector is used for electrical communication with the extruder.

STEP 3: REMOVE THE NYLON BOWDEN

  • At the top of the extruder, you will find a quick coupling for the nylon tube with a loop. Press down on the quick coupling ring and simultaneously pull up on the nylon tube.

STEP 4: UNSCREW THE SCREWS AND REMOVE THE EXTRUDER

  • Underneath the aluminum plate that supports the extruder, you’ll find two fixing screws. Using a 2.5mm Allen key, unscrew these two screws. Once removed, you can pull up to completely remove the extruder from the printer.

STEP 5: INSERT THE NEW EXTRUDER

  • Take the new extruder you want to install and place it in the same location from which you just removed the previous extruder.

STEP 6: TIGHTEN THE SCREWS

  • Under the aluminum plate, screw the two screws back in to securely secure the new extruder in place. Be sure to tighten the screws properly, but avoid applying excessive force so as not to damage the new extruder.

STEP 7: INSERT THE NYLON BOWDEN

  • Reconnect the 6 mm diameter nylon tubing into the extruder quick coupling. Make sure it’s securely inserted and locked in place.

STEP 8: RECONNECT THE RJ45 CONNECTOR

  • Reconnect the RJ45 connector that you disconnected earlier, making sure to pass it over the rubber bands.

STEP 9: TURN ON THE PRINTER AND CALIBRATE THE PRINT BED

  • Turn on the printer and proceed to calibrate the print bed. This will ensure that the new extruder setup is properly leveled and that printing can be done accurately.

Manual Leveling

Manual leveling is a procedure that is used to restore the flatness of the print bed relative to the printer reference.

Leveling is part of the machine’s calibration values, and the right value is essential for smooth operation.

This value is automatically saved by the machine during self-calibration.

On machines that are not compatible with the self-calibration system, it is necessary to use the Change Height procedure before leveling the table, in order to obtain a correct calibration.

When a plane is not leveled correctly, there are several problems, as shown in the figure.
This can cause detachment in parts where the printer reference is higher than the real one, and collisions where the printer reference is lower than the real one.

The leveling of the plate is based on the Cartesian principle of the plane passing through three points.

As you can see in the figure, there are three adjustment points arranged around the plate according to the vertices of an equilateral triangle (POSITION 1,2,3
)By properly adjusting each of these points with respect to the printer’s reference (physically represented by the nozzle) you get the correct flatness for printing.
There is also a fourth central position (POSITION 0) that is not adjustable but sensitive to other adjustments. It is useful during the leveling process

Modify height (calibration)

The height (often called Z max) of the printer is the value that defines the distance between the nozzle and the print bed when it is in its zero position (home).
The height is part of the calibration values ​​of the machine and the right value is essential for good operation.

When the machine is turned on, in the monitoring screen it is possible to see among the values ​​shown that of the height saved in the machine (indicated as Z).

As the height value changes, the following scenarios may occur:

To manually change the height value, each printer is equipped with a dedicated command within the PREPARE menu, depending on the version it can be called:

  • Modify height;
  • Modification Z max (Set Z max).

The procedure for changing the Z max depends on the machine and firmware version.

  • Position the print bed and clean the nozzle;
  • Send the printer to zero position (autohome);
  • Use the command Prepare> Modify height (or Set Z max).

The screen allows you to choose a scale value at the top (between 10 mm, 1 mm, 0.1 mm) and consequently to go down by that value on the Z axis.

  1. With scale value 10, turn the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 20 mm from the printing surface;
  2. Click the knob once to select the scale value at 10mm;
  3. With scale value 1, rotate the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 2 mm from the printing surface;
  4. Click the knob once to select the scale value at 0.1 mm;
  5. With a scale value of 0.1, turn the control knob making the nozzle descend to about 1 mm from the printing surface;
  6. Click the knob twice to activate the “SAVE Z” item;
  7. Turn the knob to display “OK”;
  8. Click to confirm and save the new Z max;
  9. The machine will exit the command and will automatically go to the Home position.

If necessary, complete the calibration with the Prepare> Manual leveling command, adjusting the plane with uniform distance in all positions.

Filament breaks

Whether the filament breaks can be affected by various factors, including the quality of the filament and environmental conditions. Here are some considerations:

FILAMENT QUALITY: Filament quality is a critical factor in preventing breakage. Low-quality filaments or filaments with defects may have weak spots or impurities that increase the likelihood of breakage. Make sure you’re using high-quality filaments from reputable suppliers.

EXPOSURE TO SUN AND MOISTURE: Prolonged exposure to the sun or moisture can affect the structure of the filament. Moisture can absorb into the filament, weakening its integrity and making it more brittle. Always store the filament spool inside the original bag or in an airtight container to protect it from these environmental conditions.

FILAMENT MATERIAL: The type of filament material can affect its breaking strength. Some materials, such as PLA, may be more brittle than others, such as ABS or PETG. Choose the filament material according to your specific printing needs.

HANDLING DURING PRINTING: When printing, make sure that the filament flows freely without friction or twisting, and that there are no contact points or corners that are too tight that could cause tension and breakage of the filament.

Tutorial

GCODE CREATION

Be sure that the 3d model presents the following caratteristics:
– closed solid
– correct positioning
– .stl file export

SLICING SOFTWARE

The slicing softwares are used to slice the .stl files into different sections, allowing the user to change the printing speed and the quality of the printed object. The result of the slicing is a text file that contains all the commands and the coordinates that the machine will execute.

Open the slicing software (ie. CURA) and upload the .ini profile contained into the SD card found with the printer, inside the “Configuration” folder.
Load the .STL file into the slicing software.
Save the .Gcode into the SD card and insert it into the printer.

TURNING ON THE PRINTER

Remove the three clips placed on the movement belts and position the printing bed, fixing it with the threaded fasteners.
Turn on the printer by activating the switch placed on the back of the printer.
Select prepare>auto home from the display menu and check that all the sledges are moving to the endstops

PRINTING BED LEVELING

It’s advised to repeat the bed leveling process before every print.
Select prepare > manual leveling > 0-1-2-3 and adjust the distance between the nozzle and the printing bed (for the model DeltaWASP4070 screw up / down the three screws placed on the aluminum plate inside the printer).

FILAMENT LOAD / UNLOAD
It’s necessary to pre heat the extruder depending on the material that is going to be printed, select form the menu prepare > pre heat PLA /ABS and wait for the extruder to reach the correct temperature.
Place the spool in position (upper part of the machine) and manually insert the filament into the PTFE pipe, then push the filament into the filament driver, rotating the black knob until the molten plastic comes out from the nozzle.

PRINTING FILE SELECTION

Before printing it’s necessary to apply a small amount of hair-spray / glue on the printing bed (we advise to perform this procedure with the printing bed removed from the printer).
The print will automatically start as soon as the extruder and the heated bed reach the predetermined temperature.

PRINTING PROCESS FUNCTIONS

During the printing process new functions will be enabled in the printer menu, such as pause, filament change, stop and save, stop print.

PRINTED PART REMOVAL

Use a spatula to lift the printed part and detach it from the printing bed.

Versione Cura 13.06
1) Aprire cura e cliccare su next

2) Selezionare “other” e poi proseguire con la configurazione

3) Inserire i seguenti parametri

4) Aprire la finestra “Preferenze”

5) Impostare come valore “Step per E”: 0

6) Aprire “Expert Settings”

7) Impostazioni base

8) Caricare il file .stl

9) Impostazioni base per la PowerWASPevo

10) Salvare il gcode

La prima volta che si connette la stampante 3D può capitare di dover installare (se non lo avete già fatto per altri motivi, come ad esempio aver installato Cura) i driver per la scheda Arduino. Vediamo come fare:
Per prima cosa dobbiamo scaricare dal sito ufficiale l’Arduino IDE e installare il software.
Fatto questo, attacchiamo il cavo USB dalla Stampante 3D al computer. Dopo pochi secondi comparirà la finestra:


Poi seguire le istruzioni come mostrato nelle immagini:

Materials Guide

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene-styrene)

ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene-styrene) is a polymer from styrenics family (PS, HIPS, SAN, ASA) that is widely used for its characteristics and its processability.
Its mechanical proprieties makes it a good choice when there’s the necessity of a strength superior to PLA.
It is also one of the best post-processable materials after the print, and this makes it interesting for the joining of multiple parts and in finishing in general.
In the industrial world the applications are many but one of the main is the automotive sector where we find ABS used in dashboards and other accessories.


WARNING!
Material guides make reference to the official materials resold by WASP.
For materials provided by a third party, the information has to be used only as guidelines.


SPITFIREZENFLEX*
0.40.71.20.40.71.20.40.71.2
YESYESYESYESYESEXPEXPEXPEXP

For this material the HT cartridge is recommended
*FLEX extruder only prints 2.85 mm filament

PROCONS
  • Resistant parts
  • Great post-processing
  • Good performances at high temperature
  • Relatively low-cost
  • Sensible to moisture (hygroscopic)
  • Shrinking and delamination during the print

DIFFICULT TO PRINT: Medium

BED ADHESION: Specific glue
NOZZLE: 225-260 °C
SPEED: 40-90 mm/s
BED: 100°C
HEATED CHAMBER:  Yes (60°C)
FAN: No


WARNING!
The calibration of the printer is always fundamental for an ideal process and for avoiding the damaging of the parts and if the machine itself.
The calibration must be always carried out at the temperature of the printing process to come.
See: Autocalibration, manual leveling


TIPS & TRICKS

ABS is diffusely known to by a complicated material to print for its shrinking and delamination. With professional glue and heated chamber, by the way, these behaviors reduce a lot making it a good choice also for bigger and complex parts.

The adhesion to the bed is resolved with specific glues that together with the bed heated at 100°C and the heated chamber grant a very good sticking of the base. This should also be helped with a Raft or a good Brim.

A more complex issue is the delamination: if the plastic is cooling down too fast it can’t stick properly to the previous layer creating a fracture on the piece.
For this reason, the chamber must be closed during the whole process and the fan must be at the minimum value (0%).

Delamination may also depend simply on a low nozzle temperature or an exaggerated printing speed.

The supports work fine and are quite easy to remove, without leaving too bad defects on the part.

In the case of very big parts it’s important to design a good surface adhering to the bed and to provide enough material to complete the whole process without opening the printer, causing a thermal shock.

POST-PROCESSING

ABS is probably the material for FDM 3D printing with the greatest post-processing possibilities.
It is easy to sand by hand and it can be smoothed with acetone vapors for a glossy finishing.
With acetone, which is a solvent for ABS, it is also possible to produce a dense liquid (juice) by melting small ABS parts into it, and it’s very useful to join together different parts of the same material without glues.
This makes ABS very suitable for multiple part printing.
Also, drilling and tapping are possible with discrete results.

SIMILAR MATERIALS

ABS is part of styrenics family.
In 3D printing we can find other materials of this family presenting similar characteristics and processability.
Some examples are HIPS, used for soluble support and also very good for post-processing and ASA that is naturally resistant to UV rays and it’s widely used for outdoor applications.

DOWNLOAD PRINTING PROFILE

check if the print profiles are present in ours downloads

BUY IT ON 3dwasp.shop

buy the ABS filaments here

PA CARBON (Polyamide with carbon fiber)

Polyamides (PA), usually known as nylon, are a family of polymers with high technical performances, with a wind range of applications from fashion to automotive.
Its mechanical properties make it ideal for the production of fibers and threads but also in the manufacturing of stiff and resistant parts such as cable ties.


WARNING!
Material guides make reference to the official materials resold by WASP.
For materials provided by a third party, the information has to be used only as guidelines.


SPITFIREZENFLEX*
0.40.71.20.40.71.20.40.71.2
YESYESEXPYESYESEXPNONONO

For this material the HT cartridge is recommended
*FLEX extruder only prints 2.85 mm filament

PROCONS
  • Very stiff parts
  • Nice matt finishing
  • Good permormance at high temperature
  • Easy to print
  • Extremely hygroscopic
  • The fibers inside make it abrasive (also for the nozzle)

DIFFICULT TO PRINT: Medium

BED ADHESION: Specific glue
NOZZLE: 225-260 °C
SPEED: 40-80 mm/s
BED: 100°C
HEATED CHAMBER:  Yes (60°C)
FAN: No


WARNING!
The calibration of the printer is always fundamental for an ideal process and for avoiding the damaging of the parts and if the machine itself.
The calibration must be always carried out at the temperature of the printing process to come.
See: Autocalibration, manual leveling 


TIPS & TRICKS

PA Carbon is a material that is quite easy to print thanks to the presence of the fibers inside reducing the natural shrinking of the polymer.

The shrinking of the material is still present and makes necessary a heated chamber (60-70 °C) for best performances and stability. Together with this the drying of the material before the print is crucial.
When the material is not dried it becomes harder to print, with an irregular finishing and poorer mechanical properties (polyamides becomes more plastic with moisture).

The adhesion on the bed can be managed with specific glues and high bed temperatures (for example 90°C). Raft is a very good choice for this material.

Supports are working fine and when the tuning is correct they are easy to remove from the part.

Long prints requires nozzles resistant to high temperatures and abrasion.
After hours of printing with this material the nozzle size will tend to increase so it’s important to check the diameter of the nozzle and, if necessary, replace it.

POST-PROCESSING

Polyamides are not very suitable for post-processing, mainly for the presence of the fibers inside
Sanding doesn’t allow to obtain a better finishing than the one of the print itself (that, by the way, is usually quite good).
The material is instead very good for the use with mechanical parts such as screws, bolts and assemblies in general.

SIMILAR MATERIALS

There are many different kinds of polyamides (PA 6, PA 11, PA 12, PA 6-6) depending on their polymeric chains. This changes a lot the possibilities of use of the final object. Also the print settings may vary a lot, but the general behavior is the one described on the top.

It is also possible to print polyamides without fibers. In this case the material is a bit more complicated to print, more similar to polypropylene.
The printed parts are smooth and not abrasive, with different properties: less rigid and more elastic.

DOWNLOAD PRINTING PROFILE

check if the print profiles are present in ours downloads

BUY IT ON 3dwasp.shop

buy the PA Carbon filaments here

POLYCARBONATE (PC)

Polycarbonate (PC) is known for being one of the strongest commercial thermoplastic polymers, versatile and long-lasting.
It’s high deflection point grants good mechanical properties to the material even in difficult environmental conditions, it is rigid but not fragile.
It is widely used also for its good optical properties: glass walls, bottles, lenses but in design furniture.


WARNING!
Material guides make reference to the official materials resold by WASP.
For materials provided by a third party, the information has to be used only as guidelines.


SPITFIREZENFLEX*
0.40.71.20.40.71.20.40.71.2
YESYESEXPYESYESEXPNONONO

For this material the HT cartridge is recommended
*FLEX extruder only prints 2.85 mm filament

PROCONS
  • Very resistant parts
  • Translucid
  • Good performance at high temperature
  • Rigid parts
  • High processing temperatures
  • Sensible to moisture (hygroscopic)
  • Relatively expansive

DIFFICULT TO PRINT: Medium-Difficult

BED ADHESION: Specific glue
NOZZLE: 270-310 °C
SPEED: 40-70 mm/s
BED: 100-120°C
HEATED CHAMBER:  Yes (65°C)
FAN: No


WARNING!

The calibration of the printer is always fundamental for an ideal process and for avoiding the damaging of the parts and if the machine itself.
The calibration must be always carried out at the temperature of the printing process to come.
See: Autocalibration, manual leveling


TIPS & TRICKS

Polycarbonate presents printing properties similar to ABS but requires overall higher processing temperatures.
The material tends to absorb moisture and this complicates the print. For this reason, it is fundamental a drying of the spool before printing in order to prevent shrinking, aesthetical and structural defects.
For the adhesion on the bed, the best choice is a specific glue for the material or a sheet of polycarbonate to be used as a build plate.
Raft or Brim are advised for a better sticking on the bed.

The heated bed and the heated chamber play a key role in the printing of polycarbonate. If these are not available on the machine is necessary to heat up everything as much as possible.

Similar to ABS if the temperatures are not high enough or if the speed is too much some problems of delamination may occur. In most cases the delamination is visible but it may be inside the part, so it’s better to check it after the print.

Supports work fine and are easy to remove, without leaving too bad marks on the part

In the case of big parts it’s important to make sure that they have good adhesion on the bed. It’s also important not to open the machine during the print to avoid thermal shocks.

POST-PROCESSING

Polycarbonate is quite good for post-processing thanks to its resistance to high temperatures. It works fine with other mechanical components such as screws and bolts.

SIMILAR MATERIALS

There is also on the market a blend of PC and ABS that has properties between these two.
It’s ideal when something more resistant than ABS is needed but without the complexity of PC. Also printing settings are in between ABS and PC.

DOWNLOAD PRINTING PROFILE

check if the print profiles are present in ours downloads

BUY IT ON 3dwasp.shop

buy the PC filaments here

PET-G (Polyethylene terephthalate)

PETG is part of the PET family (Polyethylene terephthalate), it’s a very common plastic for industrial use especially in the packaging business(bottles).
In 3D printing, it is very diffused for being quite easy to print with better mechanical properties than PLA.


WARNING!
Material guides make reference to the official materials resold by WASP.
For materials provided by a third party, the information has to be used only as guidelines.


SPITFIREZENFLEX*
0.40.71.20.40.71.20.40.71.2
YESYESYESYESYESEXPEXPEXPEXP

For this material the LT cartridge is recommended
*FLEX extruder only prints 2.85 mm filament

PROCONS
  • Good mechanical proprieties
  • Discrete performances at high temperatures
  • Relatively low-cost
  • Also transparent
  • Frequent defects on parts
    (stringing, small holes)
  • Limited mechanical performances

DIFFICULT TO PRINT: Easy-Medium

BED ADHESION: Generic glue
NOZZLE: 210-250 °C
SPEED: 40-90 mm/s
BED: 70-90 °C
HEATED CHAMBER:  No
FAN: No


WARNING!
The calibration of the printer is always fundamental for an ideal process and for avoiding the damaging of the parts and if the machine itself.
The calibration must be always carried out at the temperature of the printing process to come.
See: Autocalibration, manual leveling  


TIPS & TRICKS

PETG is very used as easier to print material compared to ABS, when PLA is not enough. This is very good also for printing bigger parts that may be problematic to print with ABS.

This doesn’t mean that the parts are necessarily perfect and there are no problems in the print. A very common issue is the stringing: PETG during the print tends to create strings on the travel movements. This problem can be reduced by working on extrusion parameters and temperatures but it’s difficult to remove it completely.

It’s also possible to find some settings such as “Avoid crossing outline for travel movements” to reduce a bit the stringing.
Another variable is the finishing of the part that can be quite good for PETG. For a better surface you can use a high fan value, but this will make the bonding between the layers a bit poorer.

For the adhesion on the bed you can use professional glues or a good hairspray, minding that at high temperatures of the bed it won’t be working.
It’s important to use abundant glue because PETG otherwise will tend to detach from the bed.

Supports are working fine and are not difficult to remove, without leaving bad marks on the part.
In the case of big parts it’s important to use low values for the fan, to make easier the bonding between the layers.
With big sections the part will be cooling down spontaneously without need of the fan.

POST-PROCESSING

PETG has discrete post-processing properties, it can be sanded and drilled with the help of some water to cool it down.

SIMILAR MATERIALS

There are on the market other versions of PET-based materials and more or less they can be managed as described on the top.
One of the most interesting versions is the PET produced partially from recycled resources, with characteristics similar to PETG but with the benefit of sustainability.

DOWNLOAD PRINTING PROFILE

check if the print profiles are present in ours downloads

BUY IT ON 3dwasp.shop

buy the PETG filaments here

PLA (POLYLACTIC ACID)

PLA is probably the most diffused plastic in the world of FDM 3D printing for its great processability.
The raw material is bio-based and it comes from the fermentation of corn, which also makes this plastic compostable.
The applications in the industrial field are mostly in the packaging business for the sustainability of the material. Talking 3D printing, PLA is the material for models and prototypes of any kind.


WARNING!
Material guides make reference to the official materials resold by WASP..
For materials provided by a third party, the information has to be used only as guidelines.


SPITFIREZENFLEX*
0.40.71.20.40.71.20.40.71.2
YESYESYESYESYESYESYESYESYES

For this material the LT cartridge is recommended
*FLEX extruder only prints 2.85 mm filament

PROCONS
  • Great processability
  • Good finishing
  • Rigid parts
  • Relatively low-cost
  • Wide color choice
  • Bio-based, compostable
  • Poor performances
  • Low heat deflection point
  • Post-processing not great

DIFFICULT TO PRINT: Easy

BED ADHESION: Generic glue
NOZZLE: 190-210 °C
SPEED: 50-100 mm/s (and more)
BED: 50°C
HEATED CHAMBER:  No
FAN: High (maximum)


WARNING!

The calibration of the printer is always fundamental for an ideal process and for avoiding the damaging of the parts and if the machine itself.
The calibration must be always carried out at the temperature of the printing process to come.
See: Autocalibration, manual leveling


TIPS & TRICKS

PLA doesn’t present specific problems during the print, it always has a good sticking between the layers and it doesn’t shrink. The only problems that may occur with this material are the detaching from the bed and the overheating.

The detaching from the bed is easily solved with a good calibration and the use of abundant glue on the bed. Glues must work also at low temperature and they do not need to be professional or expansive except for very complex prints.

The overheating is compensated by the fan on the extruder that is cooling down quickly the material. Sometimes it may not be enough, especially with small sections (for example the top of a cone) or with very high printing speed,

The solutions for this are many: reducing the printing speed, reducing a bit the nozzle temperature, printing more parts simultaneously or using a stronger cooling on the part.

The choice of the extrusion temperature can be important. The parts printed at lower temperatures are typically better for the aesthetic point of view but lack strength.  On the other hand with higher temperatures, we may have some localized aesthetical defects but the layers bond together strongly, leading to stronger parts.

POST-PROCESSING

PLA, being sensible to higher temperatures, is not a great material for post-processing. In the case of sanding and drilling, it is important to cool down the part with water to avoid localized melting. For this same characteristic on the other hand it is easy to thermoform, for example using hot water or a heat gun.

SIMILAR MATERIALS

On the market we find a variety of different materials based on PLA, specifically developed for printing at higher speeds or granting better mechanical properties..

The processability is usually a bit different between the brands but always easy to print.

Between these products we find the powder-charged PLAs, for example with wood powder or metal powder, giving the part a typical finishing after the print. The risk with these materials is the easy clogging that may occur in the nozzle due to the powder.

Another interesting product is the recently developed blend PLA + PHA that is a more plastic material compared to standard PLA, for parts that must not break dangerously.
PHA is a very interesting plastic that makes the blend even more bio-based and compostable.

DOWNLOAD PRINTING PROFILE

check if the print profiles are present in ours downloads

BUY IT ON 3dwasp.shop

buy the PLA filaments here

POLYPROPYLENE (PP)

Polypropylene(PP) is one of the most commonly used plastics for industrial production, with an outstanding range of different applications. It’s appreciated for the ability of working without breaking and for its resistance to chemicals.
The applications are many: containers, labels, tape but also a lot in the chemical and biomedical field.


WARNING!

Material guides make reference to the official materials resold by WASP.
For materials provided by a third party, the information has to be used only as guidelines


SPITFIREZENFLEX*
0.40.71.20.40.71.20.40.71.2
YESYESEXPYESYESEXPYESYESYES

For this material the LT cartridge is recommended
*FLEX extruder only prints 2.85 mm filament

PROCONS
  • Tenacity of the parts
  • Chemical resistance
  • Smooth finishing
  • Good for contacts with liquid, food, skin
  • Extreme shrinking during the print
  • Hard to manage complex shapes

*Makes reference to products with specific certification

DIFFICULT TO PRINT: High

BED ADHESION: Specific glue, PP tape, PP sheet
NOZZLE: 230-255 °C
SPEED: 30-60 mm/s
BED: depending on the interface
HEATED CHAMBER:  Yes (60°C)
FAN: No (or low)


WARNING!

The calibration of the printer is always fundamental for an ideal process and for avoiding the damaging of the parts and if the machine itself.
The calibration must be always carried out at the temperature of the printing process to come.
See: Autocalibration, manual leveling.


TIPS & TRICKS

The main problems when printing polypropylene are two: sticking to the bed and prevent the strong shrinking during the print.

The adhesion to the bed can be resolved with specific glues for this material that tends to detach from the majority of the normal glues

An alternative is the use of packing tape in PP: this film is applied on the bed before the print and removed at the end. The chemical compatibility between this film and the material coming out from the nozzle is very strong. It’s important not to overcome the 40 °C on the bed to avoid the detaching of the tape.

The last solution is the use of a polypropylene sheet fixed on the build plate.
The adhesion is extreme and the removal of the part may be complicated.

In most cases, a very consistent Brim is advised, even on more than one layer.

The shrinking of the material during the print is a more complex issue.
The use of a heated chamber can contain the problem, as much as reducing a bit the extrusion temperature and slowing everything down.

Some other things to mind are: 

  • prefer lower speed (especially with an abundant flow)
  • do not exaggerate with the fan
  • design a part that has good adhesion on the bed
  • avoid overhangs over 35%

The design phase is crucial for a good print of polypropylene, it’s not possible to print any kind of shape with complexities.
The supports can be used but they must be very close to the part and usually are a bit difficult to remove.

POST-PROCESSING

Polypropylene allows working with abrasive materials. As all thermoplastic materials, it overheats if not cooled down. It’s easy to drill and it can be glued with mastic.

SIMILAR MATERIALS

Polypropylene exists in different grades, with different properties and processability.

On the market there are products charged with glass fiber or carbon fiber that make the material easier to print but making the product a bit more rigid and fragile.

A material similar to PP is polyethylene (HDPE) but it is not very used in 3D printing for its poor mechanical properties and the problem of delamination during the print.

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THERMOPLASTIC ELASTOMER (TPE-TPU)

Thermoplastic elastomers are polymers that put together the characteristics of rubbers with the processability of thermoplastic polymers. Two common thermoplastic elastomers are TPU and TPE.
These materials can be easily pigmented and they are long-lasting thanks to their great elasticity and resistance to abrasion.
The applications are wide from objects of everyday use to specific products for the biomedical field.


WARNING!
Material guides make reference to the official materials resold by WASP.
For materials provided by a third party, the information has to be used only as guidelines.


SPITFIREZENFLEX*
0.40.71.20.40.71.20.40.71.2
EXPEXPEXPEXPEXPEXPYESYESYES

For this material the LT cartridge is recommended
*FLEX extruder only prints 2.85 mm filament

PROCONS
  • Elasticity
  • Softness
  • Many colors
  • Long-lasting
  • Some complexities during the print
  • Relatively low speed

DIFFICULT TO PRINT: Medium-Difficult

BED ADHESION: Generic glues, specific glues, Glass bed
NOZZLE: 195-235 °C
SPEED: 15-60 mm/s
BED: 50°C
HEATED CHAMBER:  No
FAN: High


WARNING!

The calibration of the printer is always fundamental for an ideal process and for avoiding the damaging of the parts and if the machine itself.
The calibration must be always carried out at the temperature of the printing process to come.
See: Autocalibration, manual leveling


TIPS & TRICKS

The main problems for printing elastomers are the knotting on the driver gear and the shrinking during the process.

The knotting on the gear depends a lot on the extruder used. Softer materials are more subject to this phenomenon.
Another crucial factor is the diameter of the filament that in the case of 1.75 mm makes the process more complex and unstable and requires very low printing speeds.
In these cases, it’s useful to use higher printing temperatures and reducing the speed of the process.

To reduce the shrinking it is useful to find the best temperature for the extrusion and finding the best placement on the bed.
Another problem is the vibration of the part: if the adhesion on the bed is not stable the nozzle may hit the part during the process leading to movements and vibrations that will ruin the quality of the part.
In this case the travel speed and the vertical lift must be set with attention for reducing the vibrations of the object.

A strong cooling helps to maintain control of the process, for this reason the fan is set to the maximum value and a supplementary cooling system can be considered.

The adhesion on the bed is not very complicated, a good generic glue usually works.
For very smooth surfaces such as glass the material will stick without the need of glues.

To facilitate the removal of the part wait for the temperature of the be to lower after the print.

Supporto can be used but being flexible they are very subject to vibrations, for this reason it’s important they have a good base and they don’t print too fast. Also, in most cases, they are not so easy to remove.

POST-PROCESSING

Post-processing is a bit different than in other materials. The resistance to abrasion makes the material difficult to sand, luckily it generally comes out with good quality.
They can be cut with scissors or blades easily.

SIMILAR MATERIALS

These elastomeric materials are many and vary for properties, for example the flexibility measured in shore scale.
Materials in shore A are more flexible while materials with shore D are less flexible.
Lower numeric values means the object is more flexible.
These materials can be also found with certification for contact with skin or food.

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