TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE

TELEPHONE SUPPORT

The Support Form at the bottom of the page has to be completed before contacting the telephone assistance number.
In this way our technicians will already have the necessary information for optimal support.

SUPPORT FORM

IN CASE OF RETURN OF DAMAGED MACHINE OR PART

Download the technical assistance module, compile and place inside the original packaging  in case you send material to Wasp, or in case of shipment of the printer or damaged part.

MODULE

WARRANTY AND ASSISTANCE POLICY

Check the page dedicated to Warranty and Assistance Policy – WASP.

Have you already visited the F.A.Q. section of our page?

Check here the section of the page dedicated to frequently asked questions about our printers, extruders and accessories. Check it now and for any other questions, please complete the support form at the bottom fo the page

FILL THE SUPPORT FORM

All the downloads from WASP

Programs, models, flyer, firmware, manuals, and more for 3D Printing and about our 3D Printers.

F.a.q.

Extruder

The difference between SPITFIRE BLACK and SPITFIRE RED is in the tensioning of the resistance’s supply

WASP SPITFIRE BLACK Extruder: 12v
WASP SPITFIRE RED Extruder: 24v

For this reason each machine model is compatible with one type of SPITFIRE Extruder:
SPITFIRE BLACK (12v): Delta WASP 2040, Delta WASP 2040 Turbo, Delta WASP 4070, Delta WASP 60100
SPITFIRE RED (24v): Delta WASP 2040 PRO, Delta WASP 2040 TUBO2, Delta WASP 4070 INDUSTRIAL, Delta WASP 4070 INDUSTRIAL 4.0, Delta WASP 2040 INDUSTRIAL 4.0, Delta WASP 3MT INDUSTRIAL 4.0

  • Turn off the printer
  • Unplug the RJ45 connector placed on the top of the extruder
  • Push down the ring on the joint placed in the higher part of the extruder and pull the 6mm nylon pipe.
  • Unscrew the two screws placed under the aluminum board supporting the extruder and remove the extruder by pulling
  • Insert the new extruder
  • Tighten the two screws placed under the aluminum board supporting the extruder 
  • Insert the 6mm nylon pipe back in the joint
  • Plug the RJ45 connector placed on the top of the extruder
  • Turn on the machine and proceed with the calibration

Here the video tutorial with the instruction for change the cartridge of spitfire extruder system. The guide to change and insert correctly the HT o LT cartridge.

Before the cartridge change be sure to have the hot end temperature set at 180°C.

Anti ooze shield is a protection in WASP ZEN Extruder to avoid loss of melted material during the extruder change.
How to replace an anti ooze shield?

How to switch between different extruders in multicore printers?

  • turn off the printer
  • unplug all RJ45 plugs from extruders and driver
  • unscrew with a allen key of 4 the six screws on the metallic joints on the movimentation arms
  • separe the arms from the extruders and place them on the guide
  • remove the three bands in silicone from their position on the sliders (Flex Extruder doesn’t feature silicone bands)
  • Hide the cables in excess (or take the missing ones) in the space on the internal roof of the printer
  • place the new extruder and insert the silicone bands in their on the sliders
  • tighten the 6 Allen screws of the 4 to lock the joints to the extruder plate
  • connect the rj wiring of the extruder and the wire feeder according to the colors
  • proceed with auto-calibration

The multicore extruders are:

  • SPITFIRE
  • ZEN
  • FLEX

Spitfire set up process:

Operation A

Download, the spitfire system configuration includes PID values and slicing profiles (Cura and Simplify3d) specific for the spitfire.

Operation B

Change the fan type from A to B. From the display menu go to : Advancedsettings/temperature/Fantype-B

If you do not find these options, contact the Support Team to update the firmware.

Operation C

Print the Gcode pid spitfire.gcode  inside the Spitfire System Configuration folder preaviously downloaded.

Operation D

Load the print profiles provided in the Spitfire System Configuration folder, sub folder Spitfire Extruder profiles, you’ll find both profiles for Cura and Simplify3d.

Do you need to replace the extruder?

Warning. Do you need to replace the extruder? The following video tutorial shows how to do it correctly.

Operation A

Manually set the extruder temperature up 200° through the menu > control > temperature > nozzle > 200°.

Load PLA filament.

Rotate the black knob placed on the filament driver, counterclockwise to extrude, clockwise to retract the filament.
Alternate these movements until you see the extrusion of the filament.

Operation B

Manually set the extruder temperature up to 200° through the menu > control > temperature > nozzle > 200°.

If the filament had difficultly being extruded it’s possible to use a needle (Ø<0.4mm) inside the nozzle in order to remove any internal impurities that are clogging the nozzle.

Operation C

Manually set the extruder temperature up to 200° through the menu > control > temperature > nozzle > 200°.

Extract the 6mm Nylon tube, by pushing down the metal ring placed on the top pf the extruder.

Operation D

Manually set the extruder temperature up to 200° through the menu > control > temperature > nozzle > 200°.

Extract the 6mm Nylon tube, by pushing down the metal ring placed on the top pf the extruder.

Insert a 2mm steel wire inside the extruder, from the top, and push it down in order to remove the material that is clogging the extruder.

  • Turn off the printer.
  • Unplug the RJ45 connector from the extruder.
  • Extract the 6mm Nylon tube, by pushing down the metal ring placed on the top of the extruder.
  • Remove the two M3 screws from the bottom of the extruder fixing plate then pull the extruder to remove it.
  • Place the new extruder in position and tighten the two M3 screws from the bottom of the extruder fixing plate.
  • Plug the RJ45 connector in the new extruder.
  • Turn on the printer and proceed with the manual leveling of the printing bed.

It’s possible to change the nozzle on the extruders purchased after January 1, 2016, this allows also different nozzle sizes, faster prints, and greater layer thickness.

To change the nozzle proceed as follows:

  • Manually set the extruder temperature up to 200° through the menu > control > temperature > nozzle > 200°.
  • Unscrew the old nozzle with a 5.5mm spanner key and remove it carefully using a cloth in order to avoid getting burnt.
  • Replace the nozzle with a new one, screw it until tight.
  • Proceed with the manual leveling of the printing bed.

The plastic cover in of our Spitfire extruders is the result of years of research on a very strong material that could resist in time at high-temperatures.

Today our extruders are manufactured in a specific technopolymer with very high performances charged with 50% of fiberglass. As a result, a Spitfire extruder can work for a longer time with high temperatures without melting or deforming. Also, this grants the possibility to assemble and disassemble it on the machine easily for its whole life.

These characteristics mean, for reasons due to injection molding, a matte and not-uniform finishing, with some whiter parts. These are the parts where the fiberglass is particularly dense on the surface.

Driver

  • Turn off the printer
  • Extract the 6mm Nylon tube, by pushing down the metal ring placed on the top of the extruder.
  • Unplug the 8 pin connector placed on the filament driver cable.
  • Cut the plastic cable tie placed on the cable.
  • Remove the 3 green/transparent rubber bands and place the new filament driver.
  • Re-plug the 3 green/transparent rubber bands into the 3 pins placed on the top of the new filament driver.
  • Insert the 6mm Nylon tube into the pneumatic fitting on the extruder.
  • Re-plug the 8 pin connector.
  • Use plastic cable ties to make sure that the cables are located as before the operation.

Check the printing bed leveling

  • menu > prepare > manual leveling > position > 00 > 01 > 02 > 03 > 00
  • Calibrate a distance of about 0.1mm between the tip of the nozzle and the glass plate.

Check the filament driver

  1. Make sure that the power cable is well connected If not, turn the printer is off and reconnect it.
  2. Make sure the control is active, then: menu > prepare > movement > 1mm > extruder.
  3. Check that the black knob on the threaded gear is well connected to the motor shaft. To check this, hold the lever of the filament driver and try to pull the knob. Then tighten the M3 set screw on the flat surface of the motor shaft, while centering the toothed part with the filament passageway.
  4. Check if the cooling fan placed under the filament driver motor is working.

Clean the extruder

Printing Mistakes

Caused by the quality of the filament and exposure to humidity and/or sunlight.

Tolerance to exposure varies depending on the material, regardless, it is recomended to store the spool inside the original packaging while it is not in use.

If at the end of the printing process the three steppers motors get disabled, the extruder may fall down and hit the printed object. This is caused by a command at the end of the Gcode, intended to save energy on Cartesian printers.

Disable the M84 command from the “END GCODE” section in the slicing software ( just add a semicolon before the command. Example: ” ;M84 “ ).

Verify the integrity of the RJ45 connector on the extruder and that it is properly plugged in. If not, reconnect it and restart the printer.

If the problems persist contact the Technical Assistence.

Check the .gcode file

  • Check that the .stl file do not presents 3d modeling issue (manifold edges / open surfaces )
  • Ensure the parameters of the slicing software are correct Ex: nozzle diameter, filament diameter, % material flow, extrusion temperature, E-step. per mm.

Ensure the extruder is working

  1. Make sure that the RJ45 cable is properly connected to the extruder. If it is not, turn the printer off and then connect the cable.
  2. Check that the flexible pipes connecting the filament driver and the extruder are connected tightly, and that there are no obstructions or dirt inside them.
  3. Ensure that the filament has arrived to the melting zone inside the nozzle.

Check the leveling of the printing plate

  • If the nozzle is too close to the printing plate the filament will struggle to get out, causing a blockage between the filament driver motor and the filament pushing gear.
  • Then, proceed with manual leveling procedure and clean the toothed gear to remove any dust from between the teeth.

 Filament driver check

  1. Make sure that the power cable is connected. If not, turn the printer off and connect it properly.
  2. Make sure the control is active, then: menu > prepare > movement > 1mm > extruder.
  3. Check that the black knob on the threaded gear is well-connected to the motor shaft. To check this hold the lever of the filament driver and try to pull the knob. Then tighten the M3 set screw on the flat surface of the motor shaft, while centering the toothed part with the filament passageway.
  4. Check if the cooling fan placed under the filament driver motor is working. If not, contact the Technical Assistence.

Steppers motors are loosing steps during the movements

  • Check the .gcode speed. Speeds over 250mm/s can make the transmission belts slide over the motor pulley and cause a loss of steps. (not with the TURBO version).
  • Check printing acceleration. Acceleration over 6000mm/s can make the transmission belts slide over the motor pulley and cause a loss of steps. (not with the TURBO version).
  • Check the material flow during the extrusion. A flow percentage over 100% could lead to an accumulation of material over the printed object, causing the extruder to hit this material and make the transmission belts slide over the motor pulley and cause a loss of steps.
  • Check the integrity of the nozzle, if it’s loose, it can slightly move down and hit the printed object, making the transmission belts slide over the motor pulley and cause a loosing of steps.

Extruder Cooling Fan

The cooling fan placed on the extruder may be loud if setted to the maximum speed. It’s possible to set the cooling fan speed from the slicing software according to your need.

Moving axes noises

  • Ensure that the noise does not come from the cooling fan placed on the extruder
  • Verify that the four sliders placed under every vertical slide can move correctly. Manually push them slowly from the bottom to the top of the printer. If there is friction contact customer service.
  • Check if the belt transmission bearings placed at the bottom of the printer have the correct fluidity.
  • Check the teeth of the belt. If there are expansions or deformations between the teeth or cuts/damages contact customer service.

Movement motors are losing steps

  • Movement motors are overheating
  • The pulley is not properly fixed to the movement motor shaft
  • Movement motors support is not properly fixed in position.

Extruder impacts

  • Check the printing bed leveling: menu > prepare > manual leveling > position > 00 > 01 > 02 > 03 > 00. Calibrate a distance of about 0.1mm between the tip of the nozzle and the glass plate.
  • Check the dimension of the object that you’re about to print. If the object’s dimensions exceed the maximum size of the printing area the extruder may hit the walls of the printer. Input the correct parameters into the slicing software for the printer in use. (From firmware F20_rev6, F21_rev3 and F30_rev4 there is a software limitation).
  • Check the installed plug-in, disable the pause at Z plug-in or set a movement value that is not greater than the maximum printing area. (From firmware F20_rev6, F21_rev3 and F30_rev4 is present a limitation software).
  • Movement motors are losing steps. See previous paragraph.
  • Check the material flow during the extrusion. A flow percentage over 100% could lead to an accumulation of material over the printed object, causing the extruder to hit this material and make the transmission belts slide over the motor pulley and cause a loss of steps.
  • Check the integrity of the nozzle, if it’s loose it can slightly move down and hit the printed object, making the transmission belts slide over the motor pulley and cause a loss of steps.

Check the .gcode file

  • Check that the .stl file does not presents 3d modeling issue (manifold edges / open surfaces).
  • Check if the parameters of the slicing software are correct Ex: nozzle diameter, filament diameter, % material flow, extrusion temperature, E-step/per mm.

Check if the extruder is working

  1. Make sure that the RJ45 cable is properly connected to the extruder. If it is not, turn the printer off and then connect the cable.
  2. Check that the flexible pipes connecting the filament driver and the extruder are connected tightly, and that there are no obstructions or dirt.
  3. Ensure that the filament has arrived to the melting zone inside the nozzle.

Check the leveling of the printing plate

  • If the nozzle is too close to the printing plate the filament will struggle to get out, causing a blockage of the filament driver motor and the filament pushing gear. Next, proceed with manual leveling procedure and clean the toothed gear to remove the any dust from between the teeth.
  1. Check the printing bed leveling and: menu > prepare > manual leveling > position > 00 > 01 > 02 > 03 > 00. Calibrate a distance of about 0.1mm between the tip of the nozzle and the glass plate.
  2. Make sure that the power cable is well connected. If not, turn the printer is off and reconnect it.
  3. Make sure the control is active, then: menu > prepare > movement > 1mm > extruder.
  4. Check that the black knob on the threaded gear is well-connected to the motor shaft. To check this, hold the lever of the filament driver and try to pull the knob. Then tighten the M3 set screw on the flat surface of the motor shaft, while centering the toothed part with the filament passageway.
  5. Check if the cooling fan placed under the filament driver motor is working.
  6. Clean the extruder.

Please make sure to have a correct printing bed leveling, following the procedure here >>.

Adhesion to the printing plate

  • Apply a layer of hair spray or glue on the printing surface in order to create a sticky layer that improves the adhesion of the molten plastic to it.

Extruder temperature and heated bed

  • Verify that the extruder and heated bed temperature are appropriate for the material that you want to print. (Check the data on the filament spool or on the filament manufacturer datasheet).

Leveling of the Bed

  • Start by preheating the nozzle and bed at the desired printing temperatures, so: menu > advanced > temperature > nozzle and bed. Wait for the heating.
  • Make sure that the printer is placed on a flat and stable surface. Check the leveling, so: menu > prepare > manual leveling > position.
  • Follow the next procedure in this order: 01 02 03 01 02 03 00.
    Change the distance between nozzle and bed to about 0.1mm by rotating the leveling wheel corresponding to the hotend position (on a Delta WASP 4070 screw/unscrew the outermost Phillips screws on the heated bed).
  • An higher or lower distance could cause extrusion problems or adhesion ones. A good way to ensure it is calibrated correctly is by attempting to push a sheet of paper between the nozzle and the print bed. The paper should be able to slip under without folding, but just barely.

Autocalibration is a systema for calibrating the planarity of the bed automatically and simplifying the adhesion of the first layer.

Compatible with:

Delta WASP 2040 T2, Delta WASP 2040 PRO, Delta WASP 2040 INDUSTRIAL 4.0, Delta WASP 4070 INDUSTRIAL, Delta WASP 4070 INDUSTRIAL 4.0, Delta WASP 3MT INDUSTRIAL 4.0, Delta WASP INDUSTRIAL 4.0 line

  • For enabling the autocalibration follow this procedure: (for Delta WASP 3MT IND 4.0 read Autocalibration 3MT IND 4.0
  • Clean nozzle and printing bed
  • With the printer turned off place the nozzle on the printing bed
  • Turn on the machine and wait for the message “AUTOCALIB ENABLED”
  • If the message is not shown try to heat up the nozzle, clean it and also clean the printing bed
  • As the message is shown launch Autocalibration this way:
  • Menu>Prepare>Autocalib (2040 T2, 2040 PRO, 4070 IND)
  • PRINT/AUTOCALIB (Industrial line 4.0)
  • As nozzle reach the temperature the autocalibration will start
  • Wait for the machine to perform the calibration (it may take few minutes)
  • It’s very recommended to launch autocalibration with the bed at printing temperature

ATTENTION
Autocalibration is enabled thanks to an electrical contact between nozzle and printing bed.
If the printing bed is different from the one provided with the machine make sure that it’s conductive. If it’s not you can still perform a manual leveling.

  • With printer turned off place the nozzle on contact with the printing bed
  • Loosen the screw joining the sensor of calibration and let it slip down for gravity until the printing bed
  • Tighten the screw on the calibration sensor
  • Turn on the machine
  • Wait for the message “AUTOCALIB ENABLED”
  • As the message appears launch the autocalibration this way: PREPARE>AUTOCALIB
  • The procedure will take several minutes
  • It’s very recommended to launch autocalibration with the bed at printing temperature
  • As the procedure ends make sure to put the sensor back to its position and block it

Tips and Tricks

It saves the print coordinates of where the printer stops due to power failure during a printing process.

A “RESURR.G” file is created in the directory of the original file. Turn on the printer then select the file “RESURR.G” from the SD card and wait for the restart of the printing process.

CAUTION: If the nozzle remains in contact with the printed object do not to select the “auto home” command.

The Resurrection procedure begins with the nozzle automatically heating to 100°C in order to avoid violent detachments from the printed object.

After this heating process the three axes will go to the “home” position automatically. The printing process will resume when the heated bed and the exruder reach the .gcode printing temperature.

RESURRECTION SYSTEM
Read more about Resurrection System.

Steppers motors are loosing steps during the movements

  • Check the .gcode speed. Speeds over 250mm/s can make the transmission belts slide over the motor pulley and cause a loss of steps. (not with the TURBO version).
  • Check printing acceleration. Acceleration over 6000mm/s can make the transmission belts slide over the motor pulley and cause a loss of steps. (not with the TURBO version).
  • Check the material flow during the extrusion. A flow percentage over 100% could lead to an accumulation of material over the printed object, causing the extruder to hit this material and make the transmission belts slide over the motor pulley and cause a loss of steps.
  • Check the integrity of the nozzle, if it’s loose, it can slightly move down and hit the printed object, making the transmission belts slide over the motor pulley and cause a loosing of steps.

Free Zeta System is the system for recovering a print at a known height.
Measure the value Z of the last printed layer, then:
Prepare>Free Zeta System
Get close with the arrows until last layer is touched.
Confirm clicking “go for gcode” and select the interested .gcode.
Wait for the loading of the file.
The operation, depending on the height, can take up to several minutes.

Preparing

Turn on the machine and clicking on the information menu on the right-bottom of the screen select for the video “ how to set WiFi”.
Follow the instructions.

I can’t connect the printer to my network
If in the listbox  of the wifi settings the interested ssid network is not visible it means that the signal is too weak or disturbed
The printer is compatible with the following kind of authentication: wpa2/psk – wep – mschap v2

Can I set the printer to a static IP?
It is not possible to configure the printer with a static IP on the WiFi network but it’s possible on the Ethernet network in copper by selecting in the list of available ssd the voice “ No wifi static IP” and complete the relative fields.

For loading or unloading the material:

  • Print>Load/Unload Material
  • Wait for the extruders to reach the temperature
  • Place the filament in the hole of the driver
  • Confirm and wait for material extrusion
  • Click AUTOHOME

In the case of Zen Extrude repeat the operation choosing the second extruder.

Heat the extruder, through the menu > prepare > preheat PLA / ABS.

Removal: Once it reaches the proper temperature, manually extrude some material and then, pushing the filament driver lever down, pull the filament out from the extruder.

Replacement: With the extruder hot, insert the new filament, and manually rotate the black knob counterclockwise until the material is extruded.

The calibration of the ZEN extruder is based on the principle of the nonius used in every caliper. It’s made of two overlapping grids with slightly dierent size of the cells, each line corresponds to 0,1mm. The position of the second extruder (T1) compared to the first (T0) depends on the coordinate that perfectly overlaps the other.

Click here to download the manual and the gcode.

INDUSTRIAL 4.0

The Industrial Line was born to satisfy the need to print technical materials  inside a hot chamber.
Thanks to its auto-levelling system it improves the machine performances and makes it easier to be used.
In 2019 the Industrial Line becomes the INDUSTRIAL 4.0. to accomplish the requirements to obtain the Italian government facilities Industry 4.0.

The main differences  with the previous line are in the following features:

  • touch screen display
  • WIFI connection
  • heaters up to 80 °C  for the hot chamber
  • Hot and Cold Technology
  • tutorial on board
  • continuous pellet feeding system (actually only on Delta WASP 3MT INDUSTRIAL  4.0)
  • end-pellet sensor  (only on Delta WASP 3MT INDUSTRIAL 4.0)

Clay

Depending on the type of material you want to use, the goal is to reach a mixture that is fluid enough to be able to come out from the small nozzles but at the same time hard enough to avoid collapse during printing.
It is therefore a matter of adding or removing water from the dough.
To determine when the material has the right characteristics for printing, just use the syringe supplied with the printer or the WASP Clay Kit.

Then:
Put the material inside the syringe. (any normal 5 ml syringe is good for this use – just cut the edge)
Push the piston up to 1 ml notch – You can have three different options:

  1. the material is horizontal. this dough is too hard

    hard material
  2. The material immediately collapses down. This dough is too soft

    soft material
  3. The material slightly collapses down. This dough is correct

    correct material

A further test is to verify that , once the dough in under pressure inside the tank – when coming out,  the correct pressure must be between 4 and 5 bar.

During printing, the best method to check if the flow is correct is to verify  the thickness of the layers while being printed.
Then check that the layers  are perfectly closed each other and at the same time do not create over abundances of material thatmight irty the print and the nozzle.

high flow
low flow
correct flow

Prepare an homogeneous and without air bubbles dough.
You can hand paste the dough or for big quantity you can use a mixer.
Just watch the video to see two different  loading-ways.

From 2019 the new tanks for the  Delta WASP Clay and the Clay kits are available..
Just follow the instruction from the  following video:

Tutorial

GCODE CREATION

Be sure that the 3d model presents the following caratteristics:
– closed solid
– correct positioning
– .stl file export

SLICING SOFTWARE

The slicing softwares are used to slice the .stl files into different sections, allowing the user to change the printing speed and the quality of the printed object. The result of the slicing is a text file that contains all the commands and the coordinates that the machine will execute.

Open the slicing software (ie. CURA) and upload the .ini profile contained into the SD card found with the printer, inside the “Configuration” folder.
Load the .STL file into the slicing software.
Save the .Gcode into the SD card and insert it into the printer.

TURNING ON THE PRINTER

Remove the three clips placed on the movement belts and position the printing bed, fixing it with the threaded fasteners.
Turn on the printer by activating the switch placed on the back of the printer.
Select prepare>auto home from the display menu and check that all the sledges are moving to the endstops

PRINTING BED LEVELING

It’s advised to repeat the bed leveling process before every print.
Select prepare > manual leveling > 0-1-2-3 and adjust the distance between the nozzle and the printing bed (for the model DeltaWASP4070 screw up / down the three screws placed on the aluminum plate inside the printer).

FILAMENT LOAD / UNLOAD
It’s necessary to pre heat the extruder depending on the material that is going to be printed, select form the menu prepare > pre heat PLA /ABS and wait for the extruder to reach the correct temperature.
Place the spool in position (upper part of the machine) and manually insert the filament into the PTFE pipe, then push the filament into the filament driver, rotating the black knob until the molten plastic comes out from the nozzle.

PRINTING FILE SELECTION

Before printing it’s necessary to apply a small amount of hair-spray / glue on the printing bed (we advise to perform this procedure with the printing bed removed from the printer).
The print will automatically start as soon as the extruder and the heated bed reach the predetermined temperature.

PRINTING PROCESS FUNCTIONS

During the printing process new functions will be enabled in the printer menu, such as pause, filament change, stop and save, stop print.

PRINTED PART REMOVAL

Use a spatula to lift the printed part and detach it from the printing bed.

Versione Cura 13.06
1) Aprire cura e cliccare su next

2) Selezionare “other” e poi proseguire con la configurazione

3) Inserire i seguenti parametri

4) Aprire la finestra “Preferenze”

5) Impostare come valore “Step per E”: 0

6) Aprire “Expert Settings”

7) Impostazioni base

8) Caricare il file .stl

9) Impostazioni base per la PowerWASPevo

10) Salvare il gcode

La prima volta che si connette la stampante 3D può capitare di dover installare (se non lo avete già fatto per altri motivi, come ad esempio aver installato Cura) i driver per la scheda Arduino. Vediamo come fare:
Per prima cosa dobbiamo scaricare dal sito ufficiale l’Arduino IDE e installare il software.
Fatto questo, attacchiamo il cavo USB dalla Stampante 3D al computer. Dopo pochi secondi comparirà la finestra:

1-errore windows

Poi seguire le istruzioni come mostrato nelle immagini:

 

 

 

SUPPORT REQUEST

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How can I find Serial Number? click here The serial number of your printer is located on the silver identification plate, you can find it on the back of your printer.

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